havent came across that either, however you can utilize the IR pin to make the controller a adressable controller which is way cooler
btw you need to flip RX and TX if you want to write data -
havent came across that either, however you can utilize the IR pin to make the controller a adressable controller which is way cooler
btw you need to flip RX and TX if you want to write data -
No you do not need to flip the pins.
The only case when you need to do that is when they are mislabeled on the board which happens sometimes
That’s not true. You can even see it on the wiring schema you attached in your post.
Sorry i misread the post, theres indeed a typo in my original post.
i was initially confused because on some other esp devices the pins are flipped on the board itself
but that is not the case here, corrected it.
Thanks for the walkthrough! I just recently moved my Tuya devices to ESPHome, which fixed a bunch of my connectivity issues. Quite a while ago I bought a few MagicHome controllers but Home Assistant only really liked controlling one, and the other two were flaky even with the remote. This method seems to fixing all that though, and I don’t have to trash my 12v strips!
I figured out the IR remote details here in a new thread. Works great!
thrown away the remote, just working with Siri
Anyways thx for the hint!
Thanks, the important principle here is that if HA goes down, my lighting should still be functional. Thanks for figuring it out for us!
Has anybody seen a slightly different revision of board for these Magic Home devices?
I’ve got one controller like the one at the top of this thread, however I’ve purchased three more for under cupboard lighting in the kitchen and they board is slightly different.
Close up of the chip, which is obviously labelled differently as in my first controller this was an ESP8266:
Rear, pads appear to be in very similar places:
Front, notice “-E” at the board spec at the top, versus the standard “-A”.
Tried flashing one of them with ESPHome but no luck, was going to try a second one to rule out poor soldering etc but that’s when I noticed the differences so held off for now.
In the meantime I’m using the “flux_led” integration built into Home Assistant, but I’m not a fan of the delay in controlling.
Swap rx and tx pins and then try again
Worth a shot, will try this evening and report back.
No luck unfortunately, still won’t flash.
What error does flashing the esp throw?
That is no ESP8266! I have never seen the logo on that IC before, and number looks weird, and after a closer look the antenna signal isn’t even on the same pin as on an ESP8266.
See this as reference: https://templates.blakadder.com/unsupported/magichome_ZJ-WFMN-E.html
That explains it!
I did wonder if it was a different chip when I saw the different markings.
I purchased them from Amazon via this link:
WiFi LED Strip Controller Alexa RGB Tomshine https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P2HS5BT/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_ndAVEbMQ7SYRM
I should be able to return them, but will need to find some that are the correct controllers then.
Thanks for the help.
So went ahead and purchased these ones from Amazon:
Turns out they have same chip as my original purchase in…
So I’ll be returning them as well, at least it’s from Amazon so easy to return.
Not sure where to go now as I can’t see a way of confirming what version I’ll be purchasing.
Normally I’d order from Aliexpress, but returns are going to be near impossible.
Does anybody have any recommendations of where to purchase?
My next attempt looks to be these ones as in the reviews somebody has successfully flashed with ESPHome
I believe this is a new version using an ESP Chip. Also uses RF instead of IR for the remote.
It will be delivered tomorrow, so I will update you all.
I too bought one of those £8.69 ones. But it was the SmartChip Semiconductor Co S9070B.
I have also noticed WiFi devices shipping with Mediatek and RealTek chips. Again neither are compatible.
Even Sonoff have started to use other random chips.
Be very interested to hear what chip is in them once you’ve received
Has anyone had the following error when flashing it? It connects and writes code to it but at the end I get the following message.
MD5 of 0xFF is 36ed8c0cd10f63f644ac82d112d814ef
A fatal error occurred: MD5 of file does not match data in flash!