You can use the Arduino IDE to upload the .ino file to your device or compile it into a binary format.
Thank you for your response. Unfortunately, it remains unclear to me how to best install this.
Your project could have potential, but regrettably, the description is very brief.
I will have to continue my search, unfortunately.
Hi Guys,
I have been inspired by of course @gerard33 but also by @HyperAbarth in this post on how to convert your old doorbell to a smart one with the use of a Shelly PLUS 1.
I tried to make this project as well but I only had access to a Shelly PLUS 1.
Somehow I can’t seem to get the doorbell to work. I don’t have any experience yet with Shelly products but this is the way I wired my doorbell at the moment.
I wired my setup like this:
The result of the above wiring:
-A working Shelly PLUS 1 on 12V power and added into Home Assistant
-The doorbell button is working in the Home Assistant integration
Problem:
-I have a feeling the relay is not working. Not when I press the physical doorbell button and also not when I toggle the Home Assistant integration Switch. Also not when I log in directly to my Shelly Switch WebUI.
Picture from my Shelly WebUI:
I am not sure how to activate the internal relay of the Shelly PLUS 1.
Could it be that the internal relay is dead? When I tried to google my problem I noticed a lot of people mentioning the ‘click-sound’ of the relay. Whenever I try to switch the relay using HA I don’t hear any click-sound at all.
Can anyone guide me in a good direction?
Hi folks,
I want to make my doorbell smart too!
However I need some guidance.
The transformer is clearly visible and also the chime and wiring. But I can’t see where the cable or the doorbell are going and either where the cables of the chime or transformer going in behind the walls. For some reason there are 3 wires going to the chime.
Is this enough info to try and place a shelly in between or do I need to open walls to see where wires are going?
Down below are more in depth pictures of the transformer and chime.
Okay, I did some testing as I didn’t understand why there were 3 wires in the chime.
The red one is deprecated and the chime still works if I disconnect that one.
I assume that the power as well of the pulse of the doorbell button both come together in the chime? So the best place to make it smart would be there?
As the chime doesn’t have power all the time (as the circuit is open when doorbell isn’t pressed). I think I have to configure the shelly close to the transformer, right?
I think I have got a very similar set up as yours.
But I don’t know where to place the shelly in this diagram.
You can use the picture in the first post. That shows the Shelly in my setup with the two red wires from the transformer.
I’m trying to understand it.
But it looks like right now there is one cable going from the transformer to the doorbell button and one cable going from the doorbell to the gong. And then there is one cable going from the gong to the transformer. I don’t see how to bring back another cable from the doorbell to the shelly and same applies to the gong wiring. Or do I miss something? Sorry I’m not that experienced with electricity but want to learn it all better.
Does the chime work when the red and blue wires (connected to O and I) touch?
When the Power button in the Shelly WebGUI is pressed it lights up blue and the relay on the device is activated. Which, as you mentioned, should make a clicking sound while activating.
I’ve “blown up” a Shelly 1 Plus once by incorrectly wiring the 12V input side, mixing up + and - wires. Which was clearly visible on the inside as the capacitor was all swollen up. Maybe worth checking yours.
Maybe it is wired liked this?
Using a Shelly Plus 1 I think your setup should look something like this
In my case the trafo and the buzzer (gong) are both in the same location, the wiring closet.
Which makes it easier as there is also a power socket there to power the 12V adapter.
But since your gong provides a lot of space (where the batteries go) maybe that would be a suitable place to install the Shelly. If you have two spare wires in the cable running to the trafo which you can use for the 12V + and -, you should be good to go.
Hi, great thread - very useful to read all of the responses.
If I wanted to achieve the same thing but without a separate AC->DC transformer, could this be achieved by using the Shelly ‘Plus Uni’ device as follows?
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Hello!
I plan to make notifications when incoming call (when ringing). My home telephone / intercom is Golmar T-5822VD with 2 wires only (BUS) where I measured 15,8—16V DC.
I don’t plan to control / trigger opening gate since I don’t want to solder wires directly to the board (button P1 in top-right corner).
After some time I was able to recognize ringing and produce notifications.
more details...
here is BUS voltage (first is BUS-, second is BUS+) reading from Shelly Plus Uni:
- this is usesless here, only for demonstration / learning purpose
and here is voltage on S+
I wrote simple JS script which is running on Shelly device and monitors voltage levels (from analog input - as voltmeter) every 2 seconds. When voltage changes more tan 2V it sends me a notification (HTTP GET request) directly from Shelly to my Gotify docker (https://gotify.net/) running on Raspberry Pi 4.
Warning 
Powering Shelly device from BUS (where is 15-16V) is not a good idea because during ongoing call it makes some interference and nobody can hear anything on both sides.
Since I have a light switch 3cm above my telephone where is 24V DC, I will use that 24V to power Shelly Uni. And my project will be solved.
- i will edit this post later
Hi, I like this setup too. Hopefully, someone can answer your question if this would work or not. I have bought a Shelly P1 and Shelly Plus Uni for the same project and had the same thoughts as you have. I also need to wire a door sensor contact. So that was the reason I bought both of the sensors at once. I don’t think I can get all to work with one of both sensors.
I don’t think this is possible it seems that the IN 1 and IN 2 need to be fed with a stabilized 5VDC input power. Hopefully, someone with a more electrical engineer background can confirm or explain this.
Hi @mr_density , could you please elaborate a little about how the shellies script is supposed to work here? I removed the Shelly integrations, installed MQTT broker, MQTT integration, python_scripts integration and the shellies discovery script.
I’d assume this would lead to discovered entitites under the MQTT integration, but nothing happens.
Have done several restarts of HA as well. Seems like I’m missing a step.
Did you enable mqtt within the shelly ( Internet & Security → ADVANCED - DEVELOPER SETTINGS)?
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Thank you, that was indeed the missing step. @gerard33 , maybe you can add this under Configuring the Shelly in the startpost?
I have the Shelly 1 plus and I have setup everything and works like a charm. I have a notification when the button is pressed.
I have one more thing which decreases the WAF.
Shelly was configured as detached and I had HA press the doorbell for 1 second. But that is a bit long. Normal people just press very short and the minimum I can set is 1 sec.
Therefore I have set shelly to edge. Doorbell press is directly forwarded to the doorbell sound and I receive a notification via HA.
But I want to stop the sound around 20:00. Does anybody managed to switch shelly from Edge to Detached via a PUT request?
Did you read the first post of this thread?
The instructions to switch the Shelly from Detached to Toggle are in the first post, as also mentioned in the post above.
And I use the following code to ring the doorbell for 0.5 seconds.
- service: switch.turn_on
entity_id: switch.shelly_doorbell
- delay:
milliseconds: 500
- service: switch.turn_off
entity_id: switch.shelly_doorbell
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