This uses the ewelink app but I cannot figure out how to get it into Home Assistant. I don’t think there’s firmware for it such as that for SONOFF. Any ideas?
If you are meaning to just make the door open and close then all you had to do is wire the MHCOZY CH1 or 2 , from Com to NO as if it were a wall button. You did not need to solder it to the remote.
@Mouthpear You can’t do that with the newer models Chamberlains. The wall buttons aren’t just simply open close. They have lights, show date, time, temperature, detect motion, etc… There’s no where on the opener itself to just do a simple open/close contact like old garage door openers which is why I had to use the rf remote. Been working for years successfully this way.
Yes you can, the button on that controller that opens the door is still just a button, it has two contacts that close when the button is pressed, wire those two contacts to the relay.
Sorry, but that is incorrect. You cannot wire it directly to the newer Chamberlain garage door openers. You could conceivable wire the MHCozy to the two contacts in the controller card of the smart wall switch, but not directly to the Chamberlain opener itself.
These new wall switches have controllers that send data to the opener. It’s not a simple open/close contact like it used to be and that fact is well known. It’s a data line that transmits other data too such as temperature, date and time, to wall switch display and a motion sensor in the wall switch communicates with the opener turning the lights of the opener on.
All of this data transmitted back and forth from the wall switch to the opener is on these two conductors. There are no other contacts on the opener itself for open and close. Just the data interface.
Since it doesn’t make sense logistically speaking to wire the MHCozy to the wall switch controller, the logical thing to do is wire it to the wireless transmitter.
Well then I better go take off the the two simple door bell buttons I put on my friends garage door that have been working for over 3 years now. LOL. I wired them right next to the door one on either side. That way he doesn’t have to hit the button at the far end and run hope over the sensors. Just reach in and tap the button.
No but seriously like the others have already mentioned and I said long ago they can. Would you like a video? I can go take one.
I never said to wire it to the controller. You can put the smart switch right on the opener itself. Not two inches away from the terminals.
There are only 4 terminals on the opener itself. Two of them are used for the safety beam/eye auto-reversing sensor that stops the door from closing and reverses when there is an obstruction. The other 2 terminals are for the two wires that go to the wall mounted switch.
These two terminals that go to the wall switch are to light the wall switch, monitor the motion sensor on the wall switch (motion turns on the opener lights), and provide data messages that are displayed on the wall switch such as status and temperature.
You cannot use a doorbell switch on these two terminals on these types of Chamberlain openers. Please understand that two terminals that are providing power and bidirectional data to the smart wall switch cannot be shorted to open the door with a doorbell button like other garage door openers that don’t utilize smart wall switches.
There are no other terminal points other than these 4 I have mentioned. I invite you to make a video that shows the model # of the Chamberlain along with a doorbell button attached to it and working when you press it. However there is information all over the internet on the type of wall switch that is necessary to work with this type of Chamberlain opener and which also cautions that a simple open/close switch (doorbell button) will definitely not work.
I am no way suggesting that you were not able to get a doorbell button to work on your neighbor’s Chamberlain garage door opener. My old one worked the same way.
Just make a video of the one you’ve already done just like you offered to do. In the video, show the model # of the unit so I can explain the difference between it and the one this thread is about.
Nah that was before you started laying on the condescending tone so thick.
Yeah tell me how it works after I already told you, is just you thinking you know more than I do. What you should have done is just ask how it’s done. Instead you want to treat others as it they don’t know things already. So for that I’m not going to bother my friend for you.
Learned long ago when people like you start acting that way, after trying to help them out, just walk away.
So if you want to know how. Purchase the same model you want to know about, send it to me, and then I will make the video. I’ll send it back to you COD.
I’m sorry you’re so angry, but your doorbell method will not work with the models that this thread is about. I’m just trying to prevent others from damaging their openers by momentarily shorting out the bi-directional data lines as you have advised. That method only works on some openers, not ALL openers.
See thee you go again. Who says I’m angry. Just like you are assuming that we don’t know what you know you are assuming feelings. Nothing I have written would indicate in the least any sort of feelings. Don’t project your feelings onto other people’s writing. So your anger is yours and I won’t be apologizing for it.
Again you don’t bother to ask how. But oh well. Again it’s no skin off my teeth.
And with that there is no point in responding. If you do, just note that I will not be. Don’t take it as I could not rebuttal or answer anything you say, there’s just no point in it so I won’t.
You take care and get some help with that anger issue you have.
As to the issue being discussed, if there’s a push button on the wall box you can disassemble it and solder wires from the HA controlling device contacts directly across the push button pins.
The button just shorts two points in the circuit. The contacts will do the same.
I agree on all of your points. As I mentioned in the quotes below, I wired the MHCozy to a wireless remote because for me wiring to the existing wall switch didn’t make sense logistically speaking especially since I had a spare one. I can more easily hide the wireless remote than I can hide the wires going to the wall switch controller.