@vilord, my indoor unit became unresponsive when I plugged out the wifi board (even the IR remote didn’t do anything), the pinout of the 5 pin connector is different from the 4 pin connector. I’d say you’ll have a bigger chance of getting this to work with the board plugged in.
My AC does respond to commands from the ESP, however I dont get a response from the AC to Home Assistant. I also did not subscribe to the Telegram group yet, I Will do that when I have some spare time, I Just work to much at this moment
I’m using a Wemos D1 instead of an esp01, because that’s what I already have a bunch of.
Soldered it all up, it powers up just fine.
I was able to communicate through esphome to see the logs, but it is only transmitting, never getting any responses.
Can’t see or control the AC through the esp.
Hmmm.
This worked okay on the mitsubishis, but perhaps the uart in the AC is not willing to listen to 3.3v serial data. I’ll see if I have the supplies to level shift this up to 5v, and hope that’s the problem…
I have made a test setup with a nodemcu esp8266. See if i could get this to work with my Mr. Cool minisplit. The wifi boards are identical as shown by nvschilleman
Unfortunately i did not have a 3.3/5.0v converter. I tried messing around with some resistor and such but not luck. I did however connect only the RX line and had the USBwifidongle from mr cool plugged in. And was able to read out the current settings every time something changed.
The TTL converter is ordered and should be here tmrw. Hopefully all will work and this will make alot of Mr. Cool owners happy! I am sure since there is no solution, and these units are very popular here in the US since they are sold as complete DIY ac minisplits.
Will provided update in next few days with some photos of the units.
Here are some pictures of the Mr cool unit. Also my integration of the board.
Cut the blue board a little smaller then directly soldered the ESP01 on top. Soldered some wire directly to the green board. The usb connector is different then the norm as described by someone else.
Does anyone know if there is a way to turn the AC display on and off? I can do this with the infrared remote but was hoping i can do the same from esphome?
Following up on my post earlier, the 3.3v->5v level shift was all I needed. Plugged it in and a few seconds later the current temp popped up in home assistant, all working perfectly. Think I’ll reflash OTA to turn off the beeper. Thanks! This is with a Mr. Cool DIY 12k
I was experiencing the same problem you have.
Following @aceindy 's advice I joined the Telegram group, thanks to the developers its working for me now!
Install ESPHome using custom repository dudanov:midea-climate-support-wo-integrity-check.
You can use the same yaml format.
I tested the new version without the crc-checks and indeed now it looks like Im able to control my Midea, however if selecting Heat from power off state, the Midea wont start, but If I select Fan Only it start fine and im able to change to Heat once started. Is it the same also for you?
A quick question: We have an MB-12N8D6-I AC. In the official app (Midea Air), we can measure the power in kWh. Is there any way to add this feature to the ESP Home?
I know that we have a power meter in the ESP Home, but the midea_dongle does not support them as far as I know.
Hmm I do not have this problem, the only thing that does not work with my units is the Swing function. I’m fine with that since I dont use it. Maybe you could check your log and post it here when selecting the heat function from power off state.
@aceindy Oh I did not know that, might recompile one of my dongles tonight, I wanna see if my units also support power usage
Guys, a very long and scattered branch. Can you describe the complete algorithm for installing software on the ESP8266, please.
I have a Royal Clima AC, but inside everything is absolutely identical with Midea and the same dongles are used - OSK102, OSK103.
why ESP need TTL converter, we can connect RX and TX directly (https://www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?p=43862)
All info regarding the flashing of the ESP is in the first post (one of the main reasons to create this topic)
And you need the TTL converter, as the AC uses 5v and the ESP 3.3v
If you do not use it you risk damaging the AC circuitry.
I don’t want to be rude or something, but maybe you should take some time to read the actual posts before asking questions that are answered by multiple posts in this thread.
Everything’s ok, it’s simple, despite repeated reading of the entire branch, I d’not understand, everyone has a different entry level, and what is understandable to an experienced user is completely incomprehensible to a beginner