The CN105 is going to be located on the indoor unit(s). The model number you listed is for the outdoor unit.
This page has some pictures of the location of the CN105 (red port) for most indoor units (at least based on my own research). https://nicegear.nz/blog/hacking-a-mitsubishi-heat-pump-air-conditioner/ [Edit: The original link is dead. Here is a Wayback link: Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner - nicegear blog]
Hope this helps.
Hi Rob,
thanks for your work here. I am also looking at doing a similar thing.
With regards to getting the ESP8266 to work in slave mode, is the limitation simply that it doesn’t support Mode 3 (CPOL=1, CPHA=1). Looking through the code, it looks like it there, but not sure if it works or not.
Thanks
Hi there,
this remote but we received no instructions.Does anyone know what the symbols mean…eg what is the snowflake.How would you set it to run at 23 degrees Celsius
Hey. I have exactly the same model. Have you been successful with the connection? Thank you
Hi kayhanbelek. I have a project with this remote, but my problem with protocols. Can you help me with your mitsubishi ir protocol you know, please !
I changed the air conditioner as I moved. I programmed each key individually with Broadlink. It was not a very practical solution.
Hoping I can just get heat pump on/off by Alexa command, and fine tune with remote if needed. Thx for this thread.
If your Mitsubishi has wifi support you should use the “Echolite” Integration or the “Melcloud” integration, depending on your device.
If it doesn’t have wifi you could build an ESP8266 or ESP32-based remote control using IRremoteESP8266 for a far more fully featured experience than you’ll get with a Broadlink remote.
@genik @Lightzhuk
Hi, just wondering if you guys had any progress with the 6 pin CNS port since?
My MHI unit unfortunately does come with that
no, I went the other way. I turn on/off the chere transmitter tuya ir