Did you just get the WF-2 recently? My WF-1 has been getting worse (offline for days at a time now until I give up and power cycle it) so would like to try the WF-2 in case it happens to be better (and also to connect an MHK1 as a backup). Did you buy it yourself or from an installer? I can’t seem to find it anywhere except for an occasional $300+ online listing that is much more than what I’d like to pay.
Thanks.
The first unit came with my mini-split system, installed along with it. That was ~4 years ago. I don’t know what it added to the cost of the overall system, which was around $5-6k.
The more recent five I purchased from Amazon, just under a year ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VBZRB8T
I thought I remembered the price being in the $275 range, but no, according to the receipt, I paid the ridiculous price that’s still current. A bit nuts, but the overall cost of the new system was already $25k. It seemed silly to get cost-conscious about the interface I needed to be able to use it with anything beyond the stupid remotes.
That probably sounds like “rich people problems” (alas, no), or “over-enthusiastic nerd” (maybe). But you have no idea how often my wife abandons a room, leaving everything still turned on. I will recover the investment, eventually.
Thanks for the info. My total cost was around the same as yours and I paid around what you paid but for the WF-1 at that time (~5-6 years ago). But when it was bundled with the system, it didn’t seem as painful…
Exactly what I told myself last year. It was a bit of a shock to re-look at the receipt this morning, and to think about the total in a different context!
Mitsubishi really should be ashamed of this product, but what are you going to do? You can’t make a hardware company care about software. To them it’s just an expense, not a differentiating factor. It might matter someday, but not today.
My experience the WF-2’s are reasonably reliable IF you create a separate network bubble for them. But if I had WF-1’s, I would not replace them with WF-2’s - that throwing good money after bad. The best alternative I have found that is the “Kumo” model done right is an ESP32 running this: GitHub - akamali/mhk1_mqtt: Control Mitsubishi heat pump over the CN105 port using MHK1 and MQTT
It acts as a man in the middle between the MHK1 that provides local override, and full HA control of the indoor unit. The normal GitHub - geoffdavis/esphome-mitsubishiheatpump: ESPHome Climate Component for Mitsubishi Heatpumps using direct serial connection implementation doesn’t support the MHK1 override and not connected in the middle between the MHK1 and the indoor unit like the Kumo.
In fact, I have the parts to convert 2 of my indoor units that are still using the old TCC integration (because I couldn’t find the WF-2’s available). If they work out well, I will probably convert the lot and make some $ reselling my WF-2’s on ebay. 
Kumo is just too fragile a product. I wish I had never spent the cash on them in the first place.
After messing with this for an hour this morning I finally got it connected. No idea what I did honestly and not sure if it was anything I did or just giving it time.
I noticed my WF1 adapter was flashing 4 blue lights then when it finally connect it was flashing 3 lights.
This leads me to a broader question that I’m hoping someone here can answer. Since my setup is old (installed 2017) I have a Mitsubishi hyper heat system wired into my central ducting via air handler in my basement (I’ve got an old house) and one wall mounted unit in our finished attic (our guest room) as there was no vents up there from my central ducting. So effectively we’ve got only two zones: main house and the attic.
Along with that, we’ve got this wired up for kumo cloud:
WF-1
MIFH1
MKH1 thermostat
At the time I got this installed, I was having weird temp reading issues that were unreliable and was told it was due to temp readings being in the basement. I was so confused but whatever I was new to all of this. They the. Installed this wall mounted sensor:
Then things got fixed but admittedly I’m not sure what that thing is above in the photos. The downside of this is they told me I had to eliminate the wall mounted thermostat to install that thing.
Later on Mitsubishi released their wireless TG1 sensor:
So I added one to my attic and my main floor for more accurate temps and humidity.
After all these years I hate the unreliability of the connection between HA and kumo cloud. Additionally the WAF is bad because we lack a wall mounted thermostat. It’s a pain for my wife because she doesn’t use HA and just asks me to control the temp. It’s terrible if I’m ever travelinf because I’m the human API via text messages to control the HVAC 
I did some research now in 2023 due to my recent problem and this thread and it seems like things may have gotten slightly better.
if I decide to just stick with my current hardware it sounds like I should create a VLAN to completely isolate the two WF1 from everything else except talking to HA and the internet. While I have a ubiquity Unifi setup at home I’m new to VLANs so would appreciate guidance how to do this.
a bigger upgrade here could be to buy two WF2 and upgrade from my WF1. Still do the VLAN as WF2 still has the problems with WF1. The WF2 seems to have a big advantage over WF1 in that it can be connected to both Kumocloud and the newer MHK2 wireless thermostat. This would improve WAF dramatically.
instead of going with WF2, hack together something with GitHub - akamali/mhk1_mqtt: Control Mitsubishi heat pump over the CN105 port using MHK1 and MQTT then I could just stick with my MHK1 I already have that’s just sitting on the shelf disconnected.
Is my warranty even an issue anymore give its 6 years old install?
I feel like I asked or read about this before but is there a way to set it to Econo cool?
would the echonetlite integration work here?
I use it with 4 mitsubishi splits for the last 4 years, works a treat.
With unifi, you set up a different local network, with a distinct subnet, and assign it as a vlan in your switch network. Then you need to have an SSID that is set up for mac assigned radius authentication. There is a great video on this here: Ubiquiti Unifi Dynamic Wireless VLAN Assignment - YouTube
Then you map the mac addresses of your Kumo’s in the radius server, and map them to that vlan that you set up in the first step.
It’s not that hard, though complicated to understand if you’ve never done it before. But still, the Kumo app is not great, and I think if you are comfortable with ESP’s and HA GitHub - akamali/mhk1_mqtt: Control Mitsubishi heat pump over the CN105 port using MHK1 and MQTT is a much better way to go, esp if you already have MHK1’s in the rooms.
I looked at the repo readme and it lists very different Mitsubishi wifi adapters that are compatible:
Mitsubishi MAC-578IF2-E WiFi Adaptor
Mitsubishi HM-W002-AC WiFi Adaptor
Mitsubishi MAC-568IF-E WiFi Adaptor
So unfortunately I don’t think this applies here. Someone else correct me if I’m wrong.
I order 3x PAC-USWHS002-WF-2 (I have 3x MHK2) ~6 months ago, they were originally due to arrive in April, but the limited amount the dealer received bumped me back until at least September.
I’ve been wanting to add HVAC control to my HA so I can more intelligently control my dehumidifier integration but after keeping tabs on this thread while I wait I am less and less enthused with the idea of spending an exorbitant price for mediocre proprietary hardware.
Is there any other good hardware alternative for the newer systems or am I just stuck?
What head units are you using?
If you’ve got the CN105 port on them the wifi adaptors will work (its the same port I’ve got on my split head units)
If you’re looking for something polished then that is your only choice (the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2). Otherwise you can hack together your own with an ESP32 module as described in one of these projects:
As per other messages in this thread, if you go ahead with the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2 units, be prepared to do some network reconfiguration to get them mostly stable. They are the worst wifi implementation I have ever seen, and I am a network engineer and seen a lot of bad ones over the years.
I had my HVAC guy come over for an unrelated issue, and he told me his firm has stopped using them because of complaints. They now use conventional thermostat adapters and Nest thermostats instead. HVAC contractors aren’t network engineers.
Mitsubishi should really fix these things.
They are doing this with Mitsubishi heatpumps?! If so, I cannot believe they are doing this. nest thermostats can’t are only at most 3 stages so you lose all the efficiency of Mitsubishi’s variable control.
Yes, in fact many installers in my area do this because people ask for the Nest stats instead of the hard to program MHK1/2’s. Kumo was meant to be an alternative to Nest, but it’s network reliability issues have caused them to be rejected by many installers…
In fact, when we built our house back in 2018, the HVAC guys strongly recommended we use Nest’s and adapters when I said I wanted a smart thermostat.
I don’t debate the nest thermostat (and pretty much any other smart thermostat) is better than the standard Mitsubishi ones. But anyone who is using those alternatives are essentially handicapping themselves and should’ve just bought a cheaper system. No need to get a variable heatpump just to then turn around and fix it to 2 or 3 stages. Yikes.
I can’t understand how any of those installers could keep their Mitsubishi platinum/diamond qualification with that recommendation.
2x PEAD and 1x SEZ, ~2yrs old.
I literally have (3x- Brand NEW) Mitsubishi adapters for converting to a Nest or similar thermostat sitting in my cabinet.
Once I learned about the handicapped functionality like @tmchow mentioned I tried to go about it correctly with the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2, but so far it has become more and more of an open-ended $$$ hassle.
The funny thing is I use Senserion SHT-45 temp/humidity sensors in the areas I have MHK2 thermostats already, to be able to control the whole house dehumidifier, and they are WAYYY more accurate than the ridiculously priced MHK2.
If I could bypass the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2 and MHK2 assembly without damaging the unit or negatively impacting the system’s efficiency…I’d do it in a heartbeat.
@fresnoboy I have pretty much resigned myself to having to install a dedicated AP in the attic for WIFI and use something like a dedicated VLAN for the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2 if I go that route. But there may be a better way mentioned somewhere in this thread.
A lot of the diamond dealers are using Nests and adapters in our area (SF Bay Area). After all, Mitsubishi makes those adapters, and they can’t support the broken kumo adapters economically if they have to keep sending people out to folks’ houses to debug network problems. Can you imagine even the best HVAC guy being trained on VLAN’s etc…?
No, the easy way out is using an adapter and installing Nests. Corporate needs to get their act together on this problem. Control has always been the weak spot of Mitsubishi systems.
