Was inspired by the HASP project, but wanted to create a more self-contained HA user interface in switchplate. Also, in keeping with my switchplates in my house, was looking for a screwless design.
So, I’ve created a switchplate with integrated raspberry pi zero w and a 640x480 IPS capacitive touch screen. The design leans on the Lutron Claro switch covers. 3D-printed a couple of prototypes and am happy with the result so far.
a few thin-gauge wires, some small self-tapping screws
The raspberry pi boots straight into chromium in kiosk mode, using matchbox as the x-window manager. xscreensaver manages the display timeout. Using tileboard as the dashboard interface.
The wallplate is designed in such a way that it can accommodate a smart switch next to it (smart switches are wider than regular dumb switches). The display can be either on the left or right side by rotating the entire wallplate (rotate display and touchscreen in software on the rpi). I see no reason why the design couldn’t be tweaked for 3+ gang wallplates. Given the display size, I think that it likely can not be in the middle in between other switches, but rather needs to be located in the left or right most gang.
I’ll post more details and STL files once I have the time. The switchplate has been working without issue for about 6 weeks now and I am happy with it. The display is fantastic, has very wide viewing angles and a good resolution.
Thank you! I’ve been experimenting with physical interfaces for HA quite a bit - something that wouldn’t really be possible without Fusion 360 and a 3D printer. I will sporadically upload some pictures and see what folks here might be interested in to learn more about.
removed the original back cover of the tablet and designed a new one with integrated wallmount (attached to standard 1 gang wallbox) and intregated modular power supply module
I have 4 of these around the house
Wall/Switch Panel:
wallpanel integrated with 4-gang switch panel. Wallbox behind the switches is a bit beaten up, so created a frame in which the switches sit and integrated a wallpanelholder that sits on top of the wall (psu is integrated in the expanded frame to the right of the display)
as above, wallpanel is a fire tablet 7 with its back cover removed.
runs fully kiosk with motion detection via camera. Added IR led in left frame to allow movement detection in full darkness
Oh wow this sounds great! Really looking forward to updates on this one.
One thing I’d point out - NEC doesn’t like holes in your enclosure. Anything that would allow something like a wire to poke inside and contact anything conductive is problematic. This makes cooling parts that can run hot a particular problem.
Thanks - that’s a very good point. This its actually a picture of an earlier prototype. I have since removed the holes as the power supply module doesn’t produce much heat. Under load the RPI does get warm, but a little copper plate over the SOC keeps the temps below 45C. Idle, it’s not exceeding 30C, depending on the ambient air temp.
I am waiting for more displays to arrive. Will take assembly pictures, when I put together the next one (probably next week). Ultimately, I am planning to have about 5-7 installed around the house.
I’m especially interested in how you wired/installed the AC->DC power board and the steps you took to make it safe. When you do your assembly pictures could you spend a good deal of time on this part?
As promised, here are some pictures from the assembly:
Raspberry Pi Zero W:
I buy the ones without the header and solder them on myself. Two headers are soldered on the opposite side. They connect to 5V and GND. The other headers are placed where they would normally go. I also solder 90 degree angle pin headers to the “RUN” pads for the reset switch.
Display:
I used a Waveshare 2.8" IPS TFT, 640x480 resolution, capacitive touchscreen. It’s very low profile and comes with RPI header installed.
Power Supply:
Mini-power supply module with 5V DC out. I’ve soldered black and neutral 14AWG stranded leads to the AC voltage side and two jumper wires with female header to the DC side.
The module sits on the enclosure of the RPi and is superglued into place (there’s a cradle that it fits into snugly). The DC header is superglued flush into the little cutout in the RPi enclosure so that it will meet the blue male RPi header when assembled.
The AC leads thread through their respective holes (marked as N L) in the PSU cover. I superglue the PSU cover to the RPi enclosure. Since superglue chemically bonds PLA plastic extremely well, it will never ever come off.
The PSU module is complete.
Reset Switch:
I superglue a small tactile button (6x3x4.3mm) to the carrier plate so that the button is lined up with the little pin hole in the carrier. I solder two very thin jumper cables to the button and crimp a female header to the other side. The cables are then epoxy’d into the cable chase in the carrier plate (I’ve managed to do this cleaner than in the pictures before).
Assembly:
The RPi goes on the little standoffs on the back of the carrier plate with its headers facing the front. The Display attaches to the opposite side and fits snugly into its cradle in the carrier.
The reset button header is then attached to the header on the back of the RPi and the PSU cover/RPi enclosure screwed in place with small self-threading Phillips head screws. This also secures the RPi in place.
I then install the carrier into its place in a 2-gang wall box with regular ‘wall box’ screws. Finally, the fascia is clipped into the carrier.
Forgot to mention: the outside of the carrier and the fascia were spray painted. First with a couple of layers of 2in1 sandable filler and primer, then a couple of coats of gloss white spray paint. The result is pretty good and you’d have to get very close to see any difference to the factory finish of the Lutron Claro plates.
love to see the code for this and also do you have single version for just the plate. I’m trying to make a wall plate cover for a wt32-sc01 3.5 but have no skill tring to design one from scratch.
Looks very clean great job.
