I also have the 20w lights not 25w, which is interesting. One of the four just doesn’t work, won’t power on. Wrote the vendor but not expecting much, but want some more so am ordering 4 of the 25w since they apparently work was well.
Thank you for doing this, been searching for a known-working set of color floods.
A couple of years ago, I converted a couple of the old ESP versions of these lights and was disappointed when I recently ordered more for Halloween decorations, and the jailbreak didn’t work. I stumbled across Tuya-CloudCutter and was pleasantly surprised to discover the new ones are using BK chipsets and are hackable. I ordered another two sets of four and converted all of them without any issues.
Another quick note: I used the Itchiptool to generate the initial config for the light. That might help you if your 20w lights have a different pin configuration. You need to do this while the ESPHome-Kickstart is still on the device.
Thanks for the pointers, it worked out of the box (or maybe I switched the cold/warm, I can’t recall).
The only thing that does not work the way I expect, and I think is more implementation of the RGBWW, is that “random”, which to me means color, will not change the mode to color if it was already warm or cold white. I tried doing a lambda implementation and first setting mode and then setting effect in code, but it just ran amok. I’m not sure how to make it reset mode to color when switching to an effect if it was white before.
But for automation purposes it is easy, I can do that switch in HA or Node Red.
I got 4 of the 25W’s yesterday, and all worked great. Found their template in the OpenBK7231T image even set pins. These join the three 20W versions I had gotten (of four, one was DOA). The 20W ones, despite being older, I think are better as they have separate warm, cold and RGB LED’s.
Anyway… now that the programming is mostly done, and slightly (but not completely I hope) off topic - has anyone found good mounting stakes or bases to mount them outside? And did you just use an outdoor extension cord without water-sealed outlets, or some kind of boxes to protect the plugs on each? I found a 50’ cord with evenly spaced outlets that worked fine for length/spacing, but worried over time it will start tripping the GFCI.
I picked these from Amazon: 8 Packs Threaded Spike Flood Light Ground Stake. I haven’t used them yet, but they seem like they will do the trick. I’m only planning to use the lights for tempory stuff during holidays and such.
Yes, looks perfect, not sure about the AC connections, might wrap in tape. Other alternative I’ve found is a dry box with cable entrances, could screw the light on top and use it as a mount. More expensive.
In case anyone else may be interested in this approach, I ended up buying some extension cord connection boxes, a bit large for just extension cords, but barely large enough to hold the “T” type connector and extra cord. This ends up producing a fairly water tight construct that also lifts the flood a bit off the ground where water may stand. I need some gaskets for the screws to be actually water tight but I suspect this is good enough.
They are here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5X43Q9X?th=1
They are a bit light… I might get some lead weight like fishing weights for the bottom (we are in a windy area here), but it’s a lot better than a bare connection on the ground. About $10 each.
This is the cord I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4BXSJ74
Linwood
I have 8 of the floodlights working, but only the first one receives DDP messages. Is there a setting or command I need to send to allow the extra ddp messages to pass on to the other lights?
Do these lights not support DDP?
Can’t seem to find these 25w lights available anymore. I bought the updated 30w ones but can’t seem to flash them. Tuya app is showing V1.5.21. Any thoughts?
send them back. I have 8 of the 30W. 7 of them were 1.3.21, 1 was 1.5.31. I ordered another 4, will find one with 1.3.21 and send the rest back.
I’m sure they support DDP, I just need to know the setting to pass ddp on to the next address. I have a node-red flow that changes the lights, but WLED would be much more flexible.
Thanks for the response. The others were in fact 1.3.21 and I was able to flash them. Sweet!
It’s done in WLED. You just add a new LED Output for each flood light that you have.
Anyone had any issues with these floodlights seemingly acting “bricked”? I was having some trouble with one that was previously setup and working. It would not turn on and I could not control it at all. Would not even run the default effect that I have at powerup. But my router shows that it is connected and I can ping it. I rebooted the network and then all four of my lights are now doing the same. Can’t turn them on at all, but they’re connected to wifi and pingable. I am not able to get them back into Access Point mode to try and reflash them.
Yes, what I found is that they fall back into the captive web client, which is intended to form an AP and let you access it, but instead of forming an AP they just activate the web client. Assuming you have the captive portal declared. If so, try hitting it with a web browser.
In my case they cycle in and out, rebooting (or something) so it takes a bit of effort. I found I can break them out of this by downloading a new image when I get into the web browser (you have to hurry before it times out). Fix an image with no captive portal (recognize there is some risk in this if you NEED a real captive portal AP).
Justin, I got them working in WLED. The problem with each light as its own segment, is an ESP8266 will only allow 4-5 segments. Luckily I had an ESP32 laying around which allows for many more segments in WLED.
I have the 25W floodlights. They are version 2.9.6. But I am having trouble.
I have a HP Elitedesk mini PC where I have installed the latest Ubuntu and installed the docker engine from the APT.
I am using a USB WIFI dongle.
I’ve git cloned the tuya-cloudcutter repo and downloaded the firmware into the custom-firmware folder.
I set my light into the slow blinking mode and run the command but get an error. Any help would be much appreciated. Bit of a linux/docker noob,
Successfully built docker image
[?] Select the firmware version and name: 2.9.6 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.1.1 - BK7231T / HYS_03_018_bk7231t_r1e1zch4rds9ypqq
2.1.6 - BK7231N / bk7231n_common_user_config_ty
2.2.4 - BK7231N / ele_1switch
2.3.5 - BK7231N / Zhimei_WiFi_smart_meter_main
2.9.12 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.9.15 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.9.16 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.9.25 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.9.27 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
2.9.3 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
x 2.9.6 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_light_ty
7.0.0 - BK7231T / oem_bk7231s_dltj
7.0.2 - BK7231N / Klarstein_Wonderwall_Smart
Performing safety checks to make sure all required ports are available
Checking UDP port 53… Occupied by systemd-resolve with PID 13845.
Port 53 is needed to resolve DNS queries
Do you wish to terminate systemd-resolve? [y/N] y
Attempting to stop systemd-resolved.service
Checking UDP port 67… Available.
Checking TCP port 80… Available.
Checking TCP port 443… Available.
Checking TCP port 1883… Available.
Checking TCP port 8886… Available.
Safety checks complete.
[?] Select your custom firmware file for BK7231T chip: OpenBK7231T_UG_1.17.366.bin
ESPHome-Kickstart-v23.08.29_bk7231t_app.ota.ug.bin
OpenBeken-v1.17.262_bk7231t.ug.bin
x OpenBK7231T_UG_1.17.366.bin
Selected Device Slug: lsc-3004919-970706-gu10-rgbct-bulb-v2.9.6
Selected Profile: oem-bk7231s-light-ty-2.9.6-sdk-1.0.2-40.00
Selected Firmware: OpenBK7231T_UG_1.17.366.bin
Scanning for open Tuya SmartLife AP
.
Found access point name: “A-2C7A”, trying to connect…
Device ‘wlx7cdd9015e5dd’ successfully activated with ‘9507fc56-2008-4ac8-931a-cd6dcbbb2b9a’.
Connected to access point.
Waiting 1 sec to allow device to set itself up…
Running initial exploit toolchain…
Exploit run, saved device config too!
output=/work/configured-devices/nQp0e8WXOPX2.deviceconfig
Saved device config in /work/configured-devices/nQp0e8WXOPX2.deviceconfig
Scanning for open Tuya SmartLife AP
…
Found access point name: “A-2C7A”, trying to connect…
Device ‘wlx7cdd9015e5dd’ successfully activated with ‘9507fc56-2008-4ac8-931a-cd6dcbbb2b9a’.
Connected to access point.
Configured device to connect to ‘cloudcutterflash’
Device is connecting to ‘cloudcutterflash’ access point. Passphrase for the AP is ‘abcdabcd’ (without ')
Flashing custom firmware…
Using WLAN adapter: wlx7cdd9015e5dd
Configuration file: /dev/stdin
nl80211: kernel reports: (extension) channel is disabled
Could not set channel for kernel driver
Interface initialization failed
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: interface state UNINITIALIZED->DISABLED
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: AP-DISABLED
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: Unable to setup interface.
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: interface state DISABLED->DISABLED
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: AP-DISABLED
wlx7cdd9015e5dd: CTRL-EVENT-TERMINATING
hostapd_free_hapd_data: Interface wlx7cdd9015e5dd wasn’t started
nl80211: deinit ifname=wlx7cdd9015e5dd disabled_11b_rates=0
Oh no, something went wrong with updating firmware! Try again I guess…
If you need to report an issue, please run with the -v flag and supply the full log of that attempt.
systemctl start NetworkManager
run the command above before you run sudo ./tuya-cloudcutter.sh
you can see that your access point in the is not enabled so it can’t connect to cloudcutterflash ap
AP-DISABLED in the log. if things are correct it should say AP-ENABLED
