Philips Wiz (not Hue) Bulbs: how can we advocate for an API

@Sbidy Sorry if this question is out of scope but has does the WiZLight integration work with “WiZ Smart plug” ?
I assume it has the same UDP mechanism as the lights
Perhaps this can be added as I new type?

It is “supported”. So you can add this as “switch” into the HA to control the plug.
You can find a example config in the README (https://github.com/sbidy/wiz_light#ha-config).

If don’t have one of these plugs - so please test the integration and give an feedback :upside_down_face:

@Sbidy Thanks for answering. I will give it a try.
FYI I read the github page but didn’t match the switch comment to the smart switch
perhaps the text should read ?
"If you want to use the integration with WiZ smart switch "

Hello @Sbidy … I finally published my WiZ library for C#.

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Any thoughts or chance pulling the light groups could happen? I have about 60 of these lights and trying to Align the ips to Config will be a challenge.

Also, another though… outside of wiz in general is to consolidate functions of 2 different platforms into a singl device…

For example, I have a dimmer switch from Insteon which controls 6 recessed lights, those bulbs are Wiz.

I can’t turn the wiz on without the Insteon switch being on first but it would be cool to be able to group the bulbs and switch into a combined entity and show the color / dimming controls of the bulbs but the on / off control of the switch.

Maybe I’m asking too much or this is a rare corner case but just a thought.

@mcnutter1 Sure. getSystemConfig pulls the lights groups by homeid and roomid.

I’m assuming setSystemConfig will let you push those values, but I haven’t tested it, yet.

My library is written in C#, but it does pull that info.

@Sbidy I just discovered that the value of speed can be 10 to 200.

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@sbidy I just wanted to stop in and say thank you to you and the others that contributed to this. I just set up my HA last week and came across this looking for support for my Wiz bulbs. This was my first custom component that I installed and it has worked flawlessly.

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I would also like to thank you. I have a few WiZ bulbs with a GU10 socket and everything works perfectly.

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Lights have Home ID’s and Room ID’s. These can be discovered with getSystemInfo command.

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You mention a 60 second delay by default, have you found a away to lower that? Trying to use some automations based on the bulb state but that delay is delaying the automation.

I have a slightly offtopic question and a question that’s probably answered somewhere along this thread… but the thread is really long, please don’t kill me.

I want to buy a Wiz lamp, but I’d like to avoid using the proprietary phone app completely. Is that possible as of yet, or must the lamp be configured with the app the first time, to get it onto the network? And can I configure any of the more advanced things (I’m particularly interested in “flick the switch twice to change mode”) from Home Assistant?

The one that’s just kinda offtopic is: how decent are the whites in these lamps? I am not really sure if they are RGBCW or just RGBW, i.e. do they have dedicated cold and warm white LEDs, or do they change color temperatures using the RGB LEDs (which is usually worse)? I couldn’t figure that out for sure from the web. In particular, the Philips Wiz A67 “Whites” version obviously offers tunable white, but does the “Colors” version also feature tunable whites with actual cold and warm LEDs, or does that one use RGB to simulate tunable whites?

You still need the app for both initialization and/or configuration. I know that there is talk in the git repo about getting rid of those, but for the time being, that’s the requirement.

IIRC, they do color temps using the RGB LEDs on the color bulbs. With that said, the whites aren’t “bad”, per se… but we’re not going to get Lifx quality at $13/bulb. :wink:

Unfortunately it’s not quite $13/bulb over here, I paid it €24 with shipping after searching for the best price… I bought it before getting your reply, so I got the colors version honestly just because it was only marginally more expensive (€2) than the whites versions; maybe I should have bought the whites version, but…

I think myself that it’s actually using two kinds of white LEDs… unlike the whites version, which claims whites from 2700K to 6500K, the colors version claims it goes from 2200K to 6500K, but I’ve noticed that below 2700K, it gives a whole different impression, and it actually feels like the orange LEDs are on, while if I change between 2700K and 6500K, at 2700K for instance the white quality seems similar to other non-smart 2700K lights I have.

The big “but” for me is something I didn’t think about but is actually fairly obvious: at 2700K and at 6500K, it doesn’t emit anywhere close to 1500 lumen, but rather, about half that. If you put it halfway between 2700K and 6500K, then it does get close to 1500 lumen, presumably because both types of white LEDs are all lit up at once, but that means a pretty cold white, considering how most people (me included) tend to have warm white lamps.

So right now the lamp is sitting unused, as it just isn’t bright enough at 2700K to serve its purpose… I hope I find an alternative use for it since I can’t return it. Anyway thanks for the info, and I guess maybe sometime someone on YouTube will tear on of these open for us and make it obvious once and for all whether or not there’s two kinds of white LEDs! :crossed_fingers:

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Many thanks to all who were involved in the development. My 5 WizLight lamps work like a charme.

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Hello,

in the last days I observed a lot of messages in the form “WizLightXXX not available” and shortly after a message, that the device is back.

Apparently, the devices do a WLAN reconnect when they do not have access to the Internet.
I have opened the firewall for some of the Wiz devices and the WLAN connection remains stable.

Is there any way to extend the time until a device is marked as unavailable in HA?
Then I could block the internet access for the Wiz devices again.

Ulrich

Hi,

I have dig a little bit deeper and take a look at the firewall logs. It seems that my Wiz devices need to communicate with mqtt.wiz.world port 8883. If I disallow this the device did a reconnect to my WLAN AP about every 10 minutes.

So a solution to extend the time until a device would be marked as unavailable would be great.

Ulrich

I’m about to buy 50 of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-Color-and-Tunable-White-5-6-in-LED-65W-Equivalent-Dimmable-Smart-Wi-Fi-Wiz-Connected-Recessed-Downlight-Kit-555623/310289033

Are these bulbs supported by this integration?

Sounds like one option would be to set up your resolver to provide an alternative resolution of mitt.wiz.world and set up your own MQTT server on port 8883 there.

Ugly and hackish, but one way to protect your privacy from this act of surveillance capitalism.

It’s also notable (and unfortunate) that MQTT.wiz.world has no AAAA record in DNS. :frowning:

I think myself that it’s actually using two kinds of white LEDs… unlike the whites version, which claims whites from 2700K to 6500K, the colors version claims it goes from 2200K to 6500K, but I’ve noticed that below 2700K, it gives a whole different impression, and it actually feels like the orange LEDs are on, while if I change between 2700K and 6500K, at 2700K for instance the white quality seems similar to other non-smart 2700K lights I have.

I suspect that it’s using one kind of White LED mixed in with RGB LEDs or that it’s using one kind of RGBW LED. It’s very unlikely that there are two kinds of White LEDs and RGB LEDs in there together.

Most likely, the White LEDs (or the W in the RGBW LEDs) is a “Daylight White” color somewhere around 5800-6000K and the Cooler whites are obtained by adding Blue from the RGB while warmer whites are obtained by adding Red and Green (effectively yellow to orange, depending on the RG blend). In order for the color to not be overwhelmed by the White LED and achieve the appropriate temperature, the W LED(s) would need to be reduced in brightness to a level that provides good blending with the RGB LEDs to obtain the desired color temperature in the overall output.

In all likelihood, if you scanned the entire temperature range until you found maximum brightness, you’d be at the native temperature of the W LED(s).