Thinking of Bailing

Where are you located? In Canada there is absolutely no way to confuse a 220V outlet and a regular 110V outlet if it’s to code. Completely different plug.

well, based on my loooong winded response above :wink: I think it should be obvious which outlet is 230v.

They are designed completely different than the standard 115v outlet. And that is because of the reason you likely wanted the red/orange indication - that way people can’t accidentally plug a 115v appliance into a 230v socket.

Here are the standard 230v 30a outlets in most houses not built in the last 20 years:

ex

And here is an example of a newer style 230v oultlet where it actually has a fourth connection for a neutral wire:

But I do get your point about making that outlet standout more. Especially if it’s buried behind other various garage stuff and not easily seen.

Odd thing is it looks like a standard NEMA 5-15 outlet or 5-20 I’d have to look again.

Wow, I certainly hope not!

If so then you need to find a different contractor the next time you have someone do electrical work. Plugging a 115v plug into a 230v oulet by mistake is just begging for a fire to start. Or worse someone getting killed by it.

Or they charged me for a 220 and only gave me a 120/30 :frowning:

Found these come with the “light almond” color you’re looking for.

There’s always that possibility too. It still sucks but at least it’s safe.

Unless they pre-wired it for 220 but only connected 110… I’d have to pop the cover and look, IF they did that, I can accept that since it’d help with getting my EV charger installed easier. :smiley:

Is this Z-Wave “Plus”? I didn’t see that on the Amazon page. Also the jasco site seems to have two receptacles and neither are their product but are all in white as usual.
image

Guess the ZW15RM-PLUS is their Zwave+ model…

I could use some of these as well as repeaters no to boost things?

https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen20-power-strip.html

Looks like they say they will. :+1:

Might get myself one of these too. Thanks for the info man.

Yeah I’ve been looking at these for a while. Amazon seems to have a decent price though I’ve seen it $10 or more cheaper a while ago but is what it is. Still better than the $79 it was the other day.

How do you usually strengthen a network without causing to many hops? I’m afraid since I’m already struggling getting devices on the first floor to talk to the z-stick in the basement I’m in trouble. By the time I get to the second floor probably will run out of hops unless it goes thru ceilings OK.

Like if I was to replace every wall plug and wall switch with Z-Wave devices wouldn’t it jump from switch to switch and hit the 4th hop quickly? Not doing it, but like in my kitchen I have up to 8 switches, three right next to each other.

running for $50 on their page right now it says

as for range extending, I just add nodes and let the network sort it out on it’s own really.

No, they’d connect to the node closest to the hub (stick) so that node would be like a mini-hub for the devices to all route through, not optimal but usually you’d get a couple to connect directly to the stick.
I thought for sure my node outside would relay through the garage door controller, but it doesn’t.

almost all my nodes can reach the stick directly, even the one outside.

Here’s my map:

Is this US? Or a different link? I know they sometimes list the same product multiple times by multiple sellers. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Energy-Monitoring-SmartThings/dp/B01HAQHQ5I

Foud it from their buy link on the Zooz page you linked:

Ahh, yes I don’t usually buy from places other than Amazon due to the return percentage I’m running with for Z-Wave devices at the moment.

JR

By the way, so I wanted to try and understand what is going on with the light switch at the top of my basement stairs. What the switch basically does is it’s a non-dimming switch with a bulb at the top of the stairs right by the switch. Then at the bottom of the stairs is a bank of recessed cans that it also runs. In the wall since this was redone is a set of neutral wires. It has no ground but was told the conduit and metal box is the ground. Trying to understand the rest as Pass & Seymour’s website doesn’t have specifics for things.

So here’s a couple pictures:

So what I “know” besides the above is the brown wire is the hot wire. I’m going to guess the orange wire is the load wire? Would the yellowish wire be another load wire?

By the way, this is basically the switch model:

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-switches-dimmers-outlets/light-switches/legrand-radiant-reg-15-amp-single-pole-decorator-switch/tm870nicc10/p-1444451249286.htm

Thanks.

JR

I would guess that you are correct that both wires connected to the lad side of the switch are load wires. And I would guess that one load wire goes to the light at the top of the stairs and the other load wire goes to the lights at the bottom.

Do you actually have metal conduit running thru your walls from every switch & outlet box going all the way back to your breaker box? I’d be impressed with that since that would be pretty expensive and most builders wouldn’t do it. And it’s not even necessary per code.

I found a wiring diagram for your switch.

Black = hot
Red = traveler / load
Green = Ground Green = second traveler / load (after studying your pics)

Is there a neutral in the box? If not, you can’t do much with that outlet.