Three (or four) position switch

Not sure if that’s a language barrier thing, but I don’t really understand how all that has anything to do with a three phase switch ? Three phase power has a very specific meaning. I don’t think this is what you are after. But if this is what you want, three phase power is switched using tetrapolar contactors. Outside of industrial automation you won’t find smart versions of those, but you can daisy chain control them using something like a Shelly, which will in turn control the contactor.

That said, three phase power is very very dangerous. The interphase voltage is 415V, which has a good chance of instantly killing you. If you don’t know exactly what you’re doing (and no offense, but it sounds like you don’t) - hire an electrician for this.

Exactly. But I think the OP is confusing a Perilex socket that is used for three phase current with a similar Perilex socket being connected to a switch with three settings used for mechanical ventilation. The switch in the picture has nothing to do with three phase current. But with all those fundamental misunderstandings going on, it simply isn’t safe to tinker.

From what i see, I think, it is three POSITION swich, which operates a single phase motor with two windings.

One position - first winding
Second position - second winding
Third position - both windings together

BUT! This is only an assumption!!!

I am not confusing anything. I know there is not a three phase current (like used in certain high power electric motors) for this device, which is why I said that. I don’t know the exact scheme being used, but it’s obvious that you understood what I meant.

What is the difference between a Perilex socket and a “similar Perilex socket”, because I have seen both and they look exactly the same from the outside (the plug, that is)?

I think the information available online for amateur electricians is fairly bad, while the same information for computer science is pretty much perfect. I don’t see how these resources don’t exist.

@BebeMischa Yes, it’s a tri-state (could also be 4 (because there is also a zero)) switch, I had said that before.

And, I don’t have all the schematics, because … they don’t exist! So, we have to open up these devices or contact manufacturers, etc. It’s not easy, but luckily there are a bunch of people in arm chairs that are willing to show their electricians badge, but otherwise remain rather vague.

If I had perfect specifications of every device, do you think I would be asking anything? No, the previous owner made a shit show out of it and I need to fix it, because the rest of humanity apparently was too stupid. It would be nice to get a little bit of understanding, instead of assuming everyone is a fucking moron.

I don’t know by heart if it has places to attach wires. Why would it have places to attach wires other than the place where the wires are currently being used? And, since it currently already is connected, that would be the place to attach wires, in which case it would be pointless to even mention it.

I just think you are communicating with inappropriate language. It’s very cool that a fellow electrician would understand what you said, but since I am not an electrician, that’s pointless.

Every other field has virtualized itself already. I don’t see why electrical installations would have to be any different. Using microelectronics I can simulate circuit boards just fine, but for larger physical installations that suddenly is an issue. Why?

Makes sense. Two generic relay switches then, controlled with some basic automation for the logic. Of course, if he really has three phases, then doing this is gonna burn down his house…

If it’s not three phase, then don’t say it is. Using the wrong terms is obviously going to confuse people trying to help you.

You want a blunt answer ? Okay. Because it sounds like you have no clue what you are getting yourself into. Cobbling things together without really understanding what you’re doing can work with ‘computer science’ as you put it. With electrical systems it can burn your house down, seriously injure you or someone else or worse. Again - hire an electrician.

That attitude is really going to work well when trying to get people to help you… :roll_eyes:

Because these installations will kill you if you fuck up.

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There is a zero percent probability that I am going to install it. I am just selecting components and designing the solution. I was hoping that I didn’t have to reinvent the wheel, but apparently the best thing that this forum can come up with is an URL to a page with hundreds of messages.

No, what would be useful is a table with various options in which I just have to select the right one. Wading through the incompetence of most of the users on that forum is also not useful. Sure, 20% of the posts there is by users that do know what they are doing.

Because these installations will kill you if you fuck up.

I doubt that would concern anyone.

The irony…

Well good luck then.

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There is no irony, because I know that I am not skilled in this area. That doesn’t mean I can’t connect less than five wires correctly with a device that is already known to work (that was the part the Home Assistant community was to come up with). I can read manuals just fine, and I know perfectly well about the dangers involved.

I am not stupid, like you seem to believe. The people in that topic on that forum also all managed in the end, Why would I be any different? Also, I am not even going to touch anything physically. I will only figure out how to connect everything and someone else will do the installation. Everyone involved is careful. Not everyone is a moron that you meet online.

The origial three phase perilex has a horizontal or vertical middle pin, depending on the amperage. So a 32A plug would not fit a 16A socket. There are also + shaped ones that fits both plugs.

The problem is that the connection is used for three phase, 2 groups single phase, and one phase double switch, if not more. That is why it is so important to know what is connected to it. That is also why there is no one size fits all solution.

Some (usually older) ventilation systems use 230V to power different circuits of the motor. Those often do not allow both circuits to be powered at the same time. Others use 230V signals to “see” what position the switch is in, but do now actually draw power from that pin. Those often do not care if both signals are on at the same time. This wiring is often used with units that replace older ones. Those often also support a RF remote. But as said, there are also units that switch on 10V signals. So those require a different approach.

Well, I’m one of the people in arm chairs that are willing to show their electricians badge, but otherwise remain rather vague.

Vague questions, vague answers…

Your attitude just made me stop giving a shit about even trying to recognise your type of installation, let’s say spending my time on a doable solution.

Have good luck.

OK, thank you. I will see whether I can get that information, although obtaining it could easily take weeks.

How many electricians do you think know about automation or about reverse-engineering an existing installation without documentation? Exactly.

Automation skills are helpful, but not essential. Electrical engineering skills are essential. And all electricians know how to measure. That will get them a long way.

Apparently, an electrician recommends to run the system in the various states 0,1,2,3 and for every state to apply a voltage tester. Based on that you can build a model of what a Shelly (or whatever device is selected) should do. All of this needs to be done with power enabled, but disassembly should be done with the group turned off (and obviously testing whether it really is off).

As for the mechanical switching, I have no idea how that mechanism usually works, although when the unit is disassembled that’s probably not hard to see.

The part with the overriding seems more difficult. The logic is easy, obviously, but the implementation of the “on state” depends on internals of the existing switch that I know nothing about, which thus requires experience with such ventilation systems. To override “off” one can just not apply power.

My Sonoff CH4 Pro’s are flashed with Tasmota, totally out of the cloud.

That logic to override each other is built in to devices such as the shelly. It has connections for the wires that come from the original switch, and for the power and ventilation unit. The shelly also has logic to prevent both cuircuits to be on at the same time (if configured properly). That is a property that most other switches lack.