Wall switch no neutral

Hardware
21
  • L wall is connected to L on the dimmer.
  • Switching wire coming from the Lamp, to image on the dimmer.
  • N on the dimmer is connected to Sx on the dimmer.
  • Two wires from the current wall switch, are connected to S1 & Sx.
  • N is connected directly to the lamp and nothing else.
1 Like
22

Thanks!

Just one more thing :slight_smile:
How do I find out which wire is going to the lamp and which one is going to the wall?
What happens if I accidentally mix them up?

Max

23

Stick out your :tongue: and lick one wire at the time :wink:

No for real:

PS: The suggestion below by @maxdaniel is actually really good as well, way easier.

24

You have to get one of those cheap electrical test screwdrivers. One of those will tell you which wire is live.

1 Like
25

Also, remember the dimmer needs a load of at least 20W or something. Iā€™ve had problems with this but you can buy bypasses to make LED bulbs with less wattage work.

26

Quick question, have you ever tried to use the fiber dimmers solely for sending scene commands and than having a smart bulb like a Hue connected thatā€™s always on?

27

Thanks!

What are bypasses?

This one:


?
28

Fibaro Bypass 2:

https://en.robbshop.nl/dimmer-bypass-2-fibaro

In case you light source does not have enough power to dim (Iā€™m quite sure you donā€™t need this when you are not using ā€œdimā€ functions).

29

I have never combined those two. Sorry.

I guess that would be hard as well, since S1 is hardwired to the output. I guess you could do it by hardwire/bridge S1 (and never use it) and use S2 as the ā€œvirtualā€ switch.

And that is actually a pretty nice use case for myself :smile:

30

Thatā€™s the stupid thing, S1 isnā€™t hardwired to the output because you can switch S1 and S2 to the output in configurations but you canā€™t disconnect both from the output.

Really just want to have my old wall switches work as scene activators. I could achieve this by using z-wave door sensors or something wired behind the switches but hate having battery powered stuff.

Anyway, drifting from the subject.

@max_yegorov I actually needed a bypass just to get the light to go out, not just to dim it. Actually send back a unit because I thought it was broken but the load was just to small.

31

Sorry, my mistake, you are right. So thatā€™s why I suggested to ā€œbridgeā€ one switch port (to simulate an always on switch).

32

That depends on the bulb btw. Iā€™ve had LED bulbs that (without dimming) did not ā€œglowā€ while switched off.

33

Yepā€¦ I mostly have led bulbs in my houseā€¦ need to check their powerā€¦

34

https://www.meek-ha.com

I have 8 Switches of this developer. Iā€™m testing for him and soon they will go in production.
Touch switches, based on ESPeasy. So you can program as how you want!!!

I LOVE THOSE !!!

36

I use RF switches.
They do not require neutral and can be controlled with RF signal.
They are really cheap and nice.
To control them, I use a Broadlink RM3 but also a RFXCOM (a have both just in caseā€¦)
You can install a main switch and various remote switches everywhere.
I love my switches.