Dang. Well, the āsmart meterā has been running for a week now and I can see info on their website but the interface uses scripting that appears to break access via the likes of parsehub. So try as I might, I canāt find a way to capture the data automatically. No doubt this is intentional to prevent scrapers that are being used for evil, but I just want to access my data in a way that makes sense to me. Sigh.
Iām looking to get data off the device as well, just had mine installed through SEWater as well! AI on the Edge via ESPCAM might also be an option, but I donāt think the screen stays on all the time. Happy to help test if you come up with something!
Apropos of nothing but to show how useful this sort of monitoring can be, I noticed that my water usage has been steadily increasing over the past year. When I looked at the data coming from the water meter (which has been in place only for the last few months) I can see that it was always increasing, even during the nights.
I called in a plumber and he found a leaking toilet (I hadnāt noticed - I suppose I was facing the other way at the time!!!) and repaired that.
I was able to watch the data from the water meter coming in in real time and it immediately stopped increasing and was steady (until we flushed the toilet as a test).
Last night was the first night for some months that shows 0L water usage.
Lesson: it pays to monitor what is going on in your home - while the plumber cost me money, it will be paid for in the coming months by lower water bills.
Susan
So, have had a closer look and the challenge will be doing it without potentially compromising the protection from water ingress into the meter. Most of the external readers I can find stick in front of the lights, and would prevent the lid from closing. As the meter is outside, this would risk moisture resting on the top of the meter and over time getting in causing it to fail. Potentially could put a larger lid over it - such as some sort of bucket - but it would need to be RF transparent to enable the signal to get out as well as UV resistant.
Iām looking to see if there is an alternative - maybe some thin optic fibres that could channel the light from the transmitters, under the closed lid, to the reader mounted externally. Or, just get a plumber to put my own meter in after the mains. That might be easier.
It looks like SEWater are using the Landis+Gyr W350 meter. I see what you mean with the cover not giving you much room.
Maybe a side looker light to voltage device like this TSL12S would fit. It would only need 2.56mm space between the emitter and the lid. It can use 5V or 3V3 supply and is very sensitive to red light.
If youāre looking at going down the fiber optic path Iāve just finished interfacing to my power meter using fiber optics. I used a SMFLP30.0 from Mouser Electronics.
Internal PCB. The hall sensor is H1 circled in red.
Desolder the hall sensor, and wire in your extension wires VCC/GND/Signal
Solder the hall sensor to the other end of your extension wires. Try to ensure you get a solid connection, my first try came unstuck when I was trying to find the right probe location. It may be a good idea to first put a blob of hot glue around the sensor to mechanically reinforce the connection.
Create a probe 4.5mm in diameter and around 30mm long (the meterās probe hole is about 40mm deep) using heat shrink or tape. You want the probe to fit in the meter, but not be too easily knocked out of position. To provide structure, first I used a nail, which transmitted the magnetic pulse with low positioning accuracy required, but I was concerned about long term magnetisation of the nail causing the sensor to become faulty over time.
Instead I used a piece of bamboo skewer, but the positioning of the hall sensor needs to be quite precise (within a few mm)
Testing on new batteries I reliably received a signal on a 5m cable (my in place implementation is around 3.5m)
As mentioned above, placement of the hall sensor needs to be quite precise. Turn a tap on so your meter is running, and hunt around for the correct position by watching for the red light on your sensor.
On my meter the hall sensor is located approx 5mm inside the probe hole.
Home Assistant Configuration
Add the zigbee sensor to Home Assistant as device name āWaterMainā
Add to your configuration.yaml:
This creates a total use counter entity āTotal Water Usageā that is updated by the pulses from your sensor, and a daily resetting entity āDaily Water Usageā that can be used on your energy dashboard.
My meter counts in 5L increments. If your meter has a different pulse rate, change the 2 instances of the number five ā5ā to match your meter rate.
Iām curious about battery life though, itās obviously sending far more frequent reports than your average door! Does this sensor report battery level?
Yes thereās a battery level report, still at 100% on the first week of fresh batteries. Iāll keep you updated.
The ZigBee sensor is advertised as a battery life of 100,000 triggers. It uses two triggers (on/off) per 5L in my case, so it all depends on your usage.
If we derate the marketing 20% thereās 40,000X5 = 200,000L, so 500L a day is 400 days, 1kL a day is 200 days etc.
I got these ones (the Zigbee variant), but pretty sure any of the similar style ones would work just as well.
In terms of modifications, it was just a case of opening it up, finding the 3-pin SOT reed switch and desoldering it, then soldering on a connector to wire up my own reed switch.
Mine ended up being a bit bodgy, but something like this:
Centre-top you can see the pads where the old 3-pin switch sat, and Iāve soldered a header pin on instead, which I then took off to some plugs to connect my switch input (with the other end going to GND, from memory - probably verify the pin continuity of what the original was doing with a multimeter to check though).
I donāt actually recall why I added that resistor, but I suspect itās a pullup on the MCUās input pin, otherwise removing the chip would leave it floating.
This looks super nice. How have the sensors been performing over the last year? Iām looking to do this but want to minimise any DIY because my soldering and wiring skills are zero.
Was there a reason you go to the effort of solar when say a zigbee door sensor would last 1+ years? e.g. combining schmttcās door/window sensor with the sensors you bought in my simple head would be a pretty neat solution? Then just solder accordingly?
Itās been great, no major issues. Only minor ones have come from hitting the water meter when whippersnippering, which has occasionally caused either the reed switch or one of the connectors to shift enough that it stops reading, which is unfortunate. Usually just a case of jiggling it all afterwards and itāll come good again, though.
I imagine youād get pretty reasonable life out of keeping the zigbee sensor on battery, depending on your water usage. I just had the solar light hanging around already and I prefer not to have to monitor battery levels if I can avoid it ā but thereās certainly no need to go to those lengths.
I modified that sensor and put my own reed switch on it. In 24 hours the brand new AAA batteries went from 100% to 40%. I donāt know if it is just the quality of the device or not, but it will not be possible to make this as battery powered only.
I should add that it is not making a good network connection due to how far from the house it is, so I am not sure if it is working its arse off to connect and that is adding to the power drain. I purchased a zigbee smart power plug that can go 5 meters from it, so we will find out soon. I have one of those sensors on my garage door and it has not skipped a beat in 12 months.
I ended up buying a $13 solar light from Bunnings ( https://www.bunnings.com.au/solar-magic-bollard-sensor-light_p0269733 ). I have housed the sensor inside the tube. Next step will be to hook up the small solar panel and the batteries. Hopefully it will generate enough to keep them charged.
P.S - That solar light you have hooked up was recalled by Aldi. Just a heads up. It will probably be fine, but thought Iād let you know in case you didnāt.
Hi All,
I have this working locally great with a D1 Mini and ESP32. What I am wanting to do now is monitor another water meter across the internet from a site that is behind CGNAT and not connected to me via any VPN. Is there a way to get the unit to report to my Home Assistant instance securely via Nabu Casa etc? Thanks.