Which direction to take to automate lights in an old house

Why Shelly stuff

cause

fair price easy to install

can leave solfware as is or you can put tasmota or ESPhome and have some real fun

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You might want to review some of the issues and discussion on this github below. I used their tool to move 7 of 8 shelly us plugs to tasmota, one would not move. And I think they are moving to esp32 on their newer products, which appear to cause some additional issues.
I still have several Shelly devices successfully working with their Mongoose firmware. For example I have several of the PM1 devices which have over current and temperature limiters in their native firmware, I am pretty sure I never found a way to know if these functions worked or how to use them if I converted the device to one of the other firmwares. So they remain on native firmware, and continue to work fine. My big lesson from my experience with the Shelly Plug US devices was that if you have firmware that is running on a home automation device and it is working, DON’T upgrade! As I said, I have liked the Shelly hardware designs, but just struggle a lot for a period with some of the firmware, and I really was not a fan of the Facebook support ‘Forums’.

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Thanks @dproffer.
I really fell down a rabit hole! :smiley:

As I said, good hunting! I look forward to following your adventures here on the forums. Hope you can get some of @farmio brother’s :wine_glass:. I have found my home automation work works much better with the proper application of :wine_glass:&:beer:. :sunglasses:

Apothekerpreise side of home automation, this is an interesting challenge and often very frustrating. I just purchased 2 tuya zigbee base light sensors because I wanted to explore some ideas around setting light temperatures based on tod and outdoor lighting conditions. And these were ‘relative’ inexpensive compared to Hue motion sensors I have used for motion in the past (but also have a light sensor). Well, you get what you pay for… I find these Tuya sensors spit out some incomprehensible number between 0 and 1000. One guy on github tells me that on the native Tuya hub the numbers show up as a percentage! I don’t care what language you speak, maths is maths. And bad engineering and software often comes as an inverse to price often.

As far as I know the only place percentage goes above 100 is politics :upside_down_face: So two more devices sent to the ‘e-waste’ drawer in the desk and the order in for the Hue devices :money_with_wings:.

I think you mentioned using zigbee2mqtt for your zigbee, I have just restarted using it after migrating away to ZHA a while back. And I will say it is the leader as place of reliable operation and still hacking around in home automation. With any Zigbee setup, getting a good coordinator (a TI CC2652) mounted high and in the clear with a couple good router devices (TI CC2530 in my case) has made for a solid and fun setup to work with (other than the Tuya light sensor :triumph:).

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Had been backcountry skiing with some friends last days. For sure, not only home automation works better with some :beer: or :wine_glass: :smiley:

Today the AVATTO zigbee light switch modules arrived… I am really curious, but now have to find some time where I can switch of the electricity and start to play around with them. I am really curious!

I will report back then.

Currently tinkering around with some ESP32 and ESP8266 for temperature monitoring of our ancient oil heating and aparrel transfer press… My first ESP8266 ESP-01 with DS18B20 sensors. :exploding_head:

Good time to ‘disconnect’ from the :earth_africa: and :ski:!

The esp-world is very interesting, from Tasmota to ESPHome to native code with Arduino libs, ESP libs or MicroPython allows creating some interesting solutions.

While I am still debating the safety of this board in ‘production’ use, I am finding it very interesting. A mains powered esp32 in a form factor that fits in a USA wall box for USD 9 with shipping cost. You might try a couple, delivery was under 2 weeks to USA. I can experiment with attaching stuff to it with it powered by low voltage and disconnected from mains using a usb serial programmer and then when I have something working, disconnect from usb and computer and power with mains (then can change code using OTA updates).

If you get your press working, queue me up for a tee-shirt :tshirt::grinning:

I’m interested to hear your experience with the AVATTO no-neutral solution, I have been experimenting and finding some mixed results:

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