Anybody find a way to get the blue board to work? Also curious if this will work as I just ordered the blue board.
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The board maker sent me this link to a Github thread but I have not had time to try it yet:
I have mine already working on ESPHOME. The support is already there for the chip on the board.
I only have one channel. At first I was going to move to a different home , and didn’t install it in the fuse panel , but the way things are going looks like I will be here for another year. So may install it into the fuse panel. I have it only right now on my laptop on my desk. I used for testing.
here is a copy of my testing esphome.
esphome:
name: home-power
platform: ESP8266
board: d1_mini
wifi:
networks:
- ssid: !secret wifi_ssidiot
password: !secret wifi_password
priority: 0
- ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_password
priority: 1
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "Home-Power Fallback Hotspot"
password: "9iwxxxxxxXpBc"
manual_ip:
static_ip: 192.168.1.153
gateway: 192.168.1.1
subnet: 255.255.255.0
reboot_timeout: 2min
# fast_connect: true
# Enable logging
logger:
level: DEBUG
baud_rate: 0
logs:
ads1115: ERROR
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
reboot_timeout: 5min
ota:
password: "dxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"
web_server:
port: 80
captive_portal:
substitutions:
esp_id: "esp-energymon"
# Common ADS1115 Sensor Setting
ads_gain: "2.048"
ads_update_interval: "850ms"
#ads_update_interval: "250ms"
ads_delta: "0.2"
ads_heartbeat: "120s"
ads_voltage: "120"
i2c:
sda: GPIO04
scl: GPIO05
scan: False
ads1115:
# 1st ADS1115 (ADDR -> Grnd)
- address: 0x48
id: ads1115_1
continuous_mode: on
# Example configuration entry
switch:
- platform: gpio
pin: GPIO013
name: "Buzzer"
#restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
inverted: true
- platform: restart
name: "ESP Home Power Restart"
sensor:
# Channel 1
- platform: ct_clamp
sensor: ads1115_1_a0
id: current_ch1
name: "${esp_id} Current Ch 1"
update_interval: 5s
## New Start
#sample_duration: 5s
accuracy_decimals: 3
## New End
# Needs adjusting for individual Deployment
filters:
- calibrate_polynomial:
degree: 2
datapoints:
- 0.00 -> 0
- 0.00090 -> 0.11774325429
- 0.003 -> 0.1885245901639344
- 0.029 -> 4.10655737704918
- 0.055 -> 7.516393442622951
- sliding_window_moving_average:
window_size: 5
send_every: 1
- lambda: if ( (x * ${ads_voltage}) < 10 ) { return 0; } else { return x ; }
# When Current updates, update Watts
on_value:
then:
- sensor.template.publish:
id: watts_ch1
# Local Voltage is 240V - adjust as required.
state: !lambda 'if ( (id(current_ch1).state * ${ads_voltage}) < 10 ) { return 0; } else { return id(current_ch1).state * ${ads_voltage}; }'
- platform: ads1115
ads1115_id: ads1115_1
multiplexer: 'A0_GND'
gain: ${ads_gain}
name: "ADS1115-1-A0"
id: ads1115_1_a0
accuracy_decimals: 3
update_interval: ${ads_update_interval}
internal: true
filters:
# Samples every 250ms...Average over 10 Secs, Send every 5 Secs
- sliding_window_moving_average:
window_size: 40
send_every: 20
- delta: ${ads_delta}
# Template Sensors for Watts
- platform: template
id: watts_ch1
name: "${esp_id} Watts Ch 1"
lambda: return id(current_ch1).state * ${ads_voltage} ;
unit_of_measurement: W
accuracy_decimals: 3
device_class: power
# Energy Sensors (kWh) for HA Dashboard
- platform: total_daily_energy
name: ${esp_id} Total kWh Ch1
power_id: watts_ch1
filters:
- multiply: 0.001
unit_of_measurement: kWh
# Voltage from HA
- platform: homeassistant
name: "Voltage"
#ESPHome ID
id: average_voltage
entity_id: switch.1000c00249_voltage
internal: true
- platform: wifi_signal
name: "${esp_id} WiFi Signal Sensor"
update_interval: 60s
# Total Energy sensor requires Times - could be SNTP or Home Assistant
time:
- platform: homeassistant
id: homeassistant_time
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Thanks, I will give that a go.
Hi @digiital , I gave this a go over the week and it seems to work great. I do however have a couple of follow-up questions …
- The switch you have added for the buzzer just lets out a faint crackle when I activate it, does yours produce a beep or other sounds?
- You set the substitution “ads_voltage” to “120” and I have changed this to “240” in my case. I see that you have also included a “Voltage” reading from a Home Assistant entity this has this - should this be used in the calcs instead of “ads_voltage” for greater accuracy?
Thanks!
- you can ignore that, I was playing around trying to get the buzzer to work, never did, didn’t remove the code.
- Yes its fine to change to 240. The code hasn’t been touched in a few months so I’m not sure which part you were referring too on the VOLTAGE.
Make sure you adjust the following numbers. I used a know power, like a lightbulb, tried heaters as well a few items to get a average to place down below . I don’t recall if I used a youtube video at first to see how it was done. Or just applying a 60w bulb and heater and looked at the logs to see the output.
filters:
- calibrate_polynomial:
degree: 2
datapoints:
- 0.00 -> 0
- 0.00090 -> 0.11774325429
- 0.003 -> 0.1885245901639344
- 0.029 -> 4.10655737704918
- 0.055 -> 7.516393442622951
OK thanks, I did re-calibrate the polynomial.
Regarding the voltage question, you have the following:
And the calculations all use “ads_voltage” (i.e. 120 or 240) instead of “voltage” from a Home Assistant entity e.g.:
Why not use “voltage” instead of “ads_voltage”?
“Voltage” is just a label/name…
I’m pretty sure you could just remove that section. I was experimenting to see if I could figure out the voltages. But I stopped working on it
I’m trying the blue board with this:
And seems to work fine.
Would anyone have an update on whether one of these is worth getting and essentially:
- Whats the difference in performance between the green and the blue board?
- How accurate is each board?
- Does it work with ESPHome (and a recent sample code for 4 channels?)
- Does it require calibration and how is that performed?
Appreciate any feedback 
The headline “Will Low Cost ESP8266 4 Channel Power Monitor Work With ESPHome?” is actually misleading.
The website states that the product shown in the picture from @Jonah1970 is actually a “ESP8266 - 4 Channel Mains Current Sensor”
Accurate power measuring will be impossible with that type of device 
The blue uses the internal ADC from the esp while the green board uses a (better) ads1115 - still both only measure current and not power 
Does it matter at all? What does it help to know the AC current?
No idea. Low cost power monitoring can be achieved with pzem004t v3’s which not only comes factory calibrated with coil or clamp but are also cheap as hell 
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I calibrated with different bulbs and a plug power meter to check bulbs real and precise power.
Then I calibrated high power with a current clamp.
I verified precise voltage to set it in the code and I think it is enough accurate for me. In future I will test the difference with a PZem
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Did you only use the good old incandescent “heat” bulbs with a power factor of 1 or also other types like CFL or LED? 
“real” in terms of real/true power which is typically measured in Watts? 
Also any information/specifications about the plug power meter you used? 
The “high power” source wasn’t by accident a pure restive load (so again pf=1) 
So you are actually calculating (or “guessing”) the apparent power (kVA) actually and not the real power (W)
As a hint: Power companies usually only bill private individuals for the “useful work” = real/true power 
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Thanks @orange-assistant for comprehensive feedback… really useful to know. So would you be enclined to say that the most accurate and cost effective way is to get, say, 3 or 4 of these to hook up to your consumer unit (mains and the optional circuits you want to monitor)? How many can you run of a single ESP32 such as a D1 mini?
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Good question. I think there is no “hard” limit but by the looks of it 10 are already somewhat troublesome:
I run 4 pzem004t v3’s on a esp32 with ethernet (in the past I used a esp8266 d1 mini for it) and they just work 
Yes, just hook the coils/clamps up to the circuits/machines you want to monitor - no rocket science 
The most cost effective way I think yes - the most accurate probably not. But in my opinion it certainly features the (by far) best accuracy per buck 
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Did you only use the good old incandescent “heat” bulbs with a power factor of 1 or also other types like CFL or LED ?
yes both
Any information/specifications about the plug power meter you used?
The “high power” source wasn’t by accident a pure restive load (so again pf=1)
was mixed, I turned on several things at home up to 2A@240v
So you are actually calculating (or “guessing”) the apparent power (kVA) actually and not the real power (W)
Well I do not need to verify if my energy seller is cheating me. I need to turn off high power equipment when solar production is <less then consumed.
As a hint: Power companies usually only bill private individuals for the “useful work ” = real/true power
thanks for the accurate tip, I will check in future with a pzem how much is that difference
Actually the power factor is often printed on products and depending on the country you are living there is even regulations “forcing” a minimum power factor 
For example if you have a led light with a power factor of 0.5 your apparent power readings will actually show double (
) of the real power
Companies with high consumption often get billed for the apparent power consumption btw. 
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I love to read the discussion and the progress but I still feel a bit lost how to build such a PZEM-004T based one.
I am also wondering, if you can replace such coil with that clamp used here cause getting such coils into the cabinet is a lot more challenging considering that I would have to remove every measured line from the board inside.
Thanks for any further hints to find such esp based product to buy or build.