I built the Zigbee network using the SONOFF USB Dongle (CС2652P) and Zigbee2MQTT in Home Assistant. Now Im getting a lot of timeout errors when trying to work with some devices. Sometimes its fixed by itself, sometimes I have to delete and pair it again.
I noticed that some of the devices disappeared from the devices list.
I assume that problem is caused by many off-line Zigbee devices. I have a lot of Zigbee lights (about 50) and they are turned off by a classical switch, therefore they are powered off and not available in the Zigbee network. Sometimes, when I turn on the lights, they start flashing like they want to connect to the Zigbee network again.
A problem with device availability appears for these lights, for socket plugs, etc… Is my assumption correct? How to fix it?
Note. I have at least 10-20 Zigbee devices (socket plugs, thermostats) that are always turned on and work as routers. They are distributed in different places in my house and should provide stable connections and cover all areas.
Zigbee lights should stay powered all the time. Every time you power them off they loose connection, and when powered up they need to rebuild their routes.
Or get lights like segled that are end devices but your network would still be erratic as these lights might lose connection to their routers when turned off.
You basically put tape (or other more cosmetic covers) over the light switches and keep them on all the time. They are not designed to be powered off for any extended period and why would you use zigbee bulbs if you were going to use them in that way?
Two possible solutions: Buy a zigbee switch / dimmer button that you use in stead of the regular one, maybe you can find a 3D printed holder you can place over the switch so it doesnt get turned off by accident.
Or the more expensive route, use in-wall zigbee switches / dimmers that hook up to the regular switch and regular bulbs.
I believe that you assumption migth be correct, it could also be EMF/EMI/RMI interference or some bad/rouge device(s) that is spamming the Zigbee network or not routing all messages.
To fix it I would suggest starting by removing the “dumb” switches from your Zigbee lights/lightbulbs that are Zigbee Router devices as those should always have power and be connected permanently. So either replace the “dumb” switches with a smart switch that indirectly control the Zigbee lights/lightbulbs, or repace the Zigbee lights/lightbulbs with a different brand/model that are not Zigbee Router devices (like the above suggested like Sengled lightbulbs that are Zigbee End Devices and not Zigbee Router Devices).
This is the solution that I promote myself. I only use smart Zigbee lights for corded labs like window labs and floor lambs where it is easier to remove the dumb switch from the cord (or replace the whole cord). For all my ceiling lights and under-counter lights I use dumb lights with smart switches instead.
Anyway, what computer/appliance are you running Zigbee2MQTT on and how exactly are you physically connecting the Zigbee Coordinator adapter to it? Using a long USB extender cable to a USB 2.0 port?
Tip is to add a few “known good” Zigbee Router devices and then re-pair/re-join the Aqara/Xiaomi devices so they will connect through those. Personally, I recommend buying a few IKEA TRÅDFRI Signal Repeater and Aeotec Range Extender Zi. As one of the problems with Aqara/Xiaomi devices is that they will not automatically move to a closer Zigbee Router device if it added later you must manually re-pair/re-join the Aqara/Xiaomi device after to make sure it connects through the newly added Zigbee Router device. Again see this for even better suggestions and more recommendations → Zigbee networks: how to guide for avoiding interference and optimize for getting better range + coverage
You also need to be aware Zigbee is extremely sensitive to EMF/EMI/RMI and the two most infamous sources of interference comes from Wi-Fi radios and USB 3.x ports/devices/cables so make sure you are connecting the Zigbee Coordinator via long USB extension cable and connect it to a USB 2.0 port and not a USB 3.x or USB 4.x port (so connect it via a powered USB 2.0 hub if your computer/appliance that runs Home Assistant only have USB 3.x ports).
It is quite common that a compatible Zigbee devices will not properly communicate, with corrupt mesages being dropped and sometimes not even being able to pair/join due to EMF/EMI/RMI interference.
I have this setup (all my zigbee bulbs are powered from the wall switches via z-wave switches to ensure failsafe operation). This means that big chunks of my zigbee network disappear every time they are turned off. To avoid this being a problem, I have two zigbee radios and two zigbee networks (one via ZHA and one via deCONZ). I put all remotes, sensors, and plug switches on the second zigbee network and all bulbs with wall-switches on the first one. That way the bulbs may lose their connection, but that’s okay because I only use it for adjusting color temperature, while none of the remotes/sensors/wall plugs do.
With Ikea bulbs I’ve never had problems with them trying to find a new network when they are turned back on, but sometimes they do lose the network after a few months.
Absolutely! But I want to change the color temperature with the time of day, so I have to get zigbee bulbs. I do use the in-wall z-wave switches/dimmer for directly controlling the downlights in the kitchen, but they are permanently 2700K, so it looks very warm when the rest of the house is at 3300K.
I do use the in-wall z-wave switches/dimmer for directly controlling the downlights in the kitchen, but they are permanently 2700K, so it looks very warm when the rest of the house is at 3300K.