Think of how the no-neutral switch is connected:
~AC Mains~------[Aquara]------[Yeelight]-------~AC Mains~
If the Yeelight isn’t passing current, the Aquara is toast.
Some no-neutral switches support a bypass module (e.g. Fibaro FGB-002) to give a guaranteed trickle of current but don’t know about Aquara.
The modules are typically a specially rated capacitor (X1/ X2) and a resistor but might not be compatible with other switches.
The old hack was to fit a small incandescent bulb (resistive load) in parallel with LEDs to guarantee some current flow for a switch.
If this helps, 
this post!