Radio waves travel at the speed of light, so … fast!
Like @DaveBoring I have no problems with speed. Reach may be harder, but the secret to that is your mesh. Have devices that double as routers at strategic points in the house.
Most mains powered devices act as routers. But not all! (I think Sengled bulbs fall down on this).
Most end devices connect to any router on the mesh. But not all! (Aqara I think can be bad at this).
First hand experience is usualy the best. Tanxs.
I will add some sonoff plug, but the switch and the light should round up everything then.
Buying from amazon has it’s drawback : there is alot of company that no one (youtube, here, other forum) ever mention, such as treatlife. Not easy to figure out a perfect combo.
I beleive that i will replace the light bulb with KASA or if i decide to sell one of my kids, phillips.
The switch i have no idea. What would be your go to for a switch that my 7 heavy fisted kid can open and close like mad yet still work with my system ?
Tanxs again!
i do not need smart bulb if i am using smart switch.
Be careful, you said you want zigbee. But then, neither KASA nor TreatLife uses zigbee.
For switches, I start my search from here. There are different styles to replace your switches, and there are in-wall style that you can hide behind whatever heavy-duty switches you already have:
Zigbee2MQTT - Device Search: switch
tanxs, i just notice that about KASA.
I didnt think of your solution. it would be cheaper to get all SONOFF ZBMINI-L ZigBee Mini Smart Switch added to my curent switch then buy new switch.
I will be able to use them as dumb switchm it will mesh the zigbee network and no one can see them.
Do i miss anything ?
If the switch you’re looking for is the one discussed here, it will not function as a Zigbee router and therefore not help with meshing the network.
sometime, life is hard.
I might have to add this SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus, TI CC2652P + CP2102N Zigbee USB Stick for every floor.
2 per floor might be overkill but that should make a solide mesh.
Adding another usb stick as a router will mean you have to flash it as a router. Or buy a tubes router which is set up and ready to go. https://www.tubeszb.com/
As stated, the zbmini-L is the no-neutral version and does not act a router.
If you have a neutral, use the standard zbmini (no “-L”).
Alternatively, I tucked a couple zbminis behind outlets without a switch or any switched load attached - basically acting strictly as hidden router only devices.
Having just two routers does not make a solid mesh 
Perhaps, but its a good starting point. Logically placed in a 31x50 ft space, an end device should be no more than 15-20ft away from router ot coordinator, considerably less if thinking/planning three dimensionally.
He’d be starting out better than the average new user. The rest could grow and fill in organically.
I just wish wifi device were as fast and as cheap. My wifi network is massive and rock solid. I have ubiquiti everywhere and everything is PoE
So as not to limit yourself I would strong recommend getting the Nortek HUSBZB-1 Zigbee & Z-Wave Plus USB Interface
That way you have Zigbee, Zwave Plus, and you can use HomeKit through the HomeKit Controller integration and you are covered on a much larger number of devices.
Depending on the device, HomeKit could be quicker through the HomeKit Controller integration. I use it for my Honeywell T9 Thermostat since it doesn’t have Zwave/Zigbee and it works great locally.
wifi also travels at the speed of light 
The problem with youtube is that they give part of information, and my mind was condition to understand that wifi device lack in reactivity, cost more and cannot work as both dumb and smart switch.
Its anecdotal, but for zigbee I’ve been MUCH happier with the Sonoff stick. ALL if the zigbee issues I had with the Nortek stick went away with the Sonoff.
You can look at the specification of the specific Zigbee chip used in each device but it will not tell you the real world values as different manufacturers implementations of radio components and antenna design in their different products will also play a huge role, thus the chip used does not tell you the real world performance.
Generally, just be aware that Zigbee signals are relatively weak and have poor penetration of building materials so the key is to rely on a strong Zigbee network mesh (meaning adding many Zigbee Router devices), as well as keeping in mind that Zigbee devices are very sensitive to RMF/EMI/RMI interference so it makes it much easier to troubleshoot later and find the real root cause if have already optimized your setup and environment to work around that by avoiding interference and build out a large Zigbee network with loads of always-on mains-powered products that act as Zigbee Router devices.
My tip is to buy a few “IKEA TRÅDFRI Signal Repeater” as dedicated Zigbee Router devices and they are cheap and work better as repeaters than non-dedicated Zigbee Router devices. Alternatively do as suggested above and buy a flash a few ITead Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 Plus Dongle with Zigbee Router firmware and use them in USB-changers. General advice there is that more is better so right now buying additinal “IKEA TRÅDFRI Signal Repeater” for the same total cost will give you the most bang for the buck today.
Also, regardless of the actual devices uses, always aim to keep the firmware of the Zigbee Coordinator updated, add more products acting as Zigbee Routers devices and implement workarounds for interference, see:
https://github.com/home-assistant/home-assistant.io/pull/18864
and
The conclusion is that you can avoid a lot problems with some basic knowledge about how to avoid interference and adding more Zigbee Router devices. When in doubt, add more Zigbee Routers.
That is actually not a good recommendation today. Nortek HUSBZB-1 is old product based on old chips.
Better to get a dedicated Zigbee Coordinator and a dedicated Z-Wave Controller based on newer chips.
I’m not saying that Nortek HUSBZB-1 is bad but it does use obsolete chips no longer manufactured. Latest EmberZNet Zigbee SDK firmware released from Silicon Labs is not supported on such old chips.
Much better to get a Zigbee Coordinator based on Silabs EFR32MGxx or Texas Instruments CC26x2.
Current benefit of Texas Instruments over Silicon Labs is that it is better supported in Zigbee2MQTT:
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/information/supported_adapters.html
Silicon Labs (a.k.a. Silabs) “EZSP” serial protocol used in their Zigbee firmware only has experimental support in Zigbee2MQTT (while they supported Texas Instruments ZNP serial protocol for many years):
https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee-herdsman/issues/319
ZHA integration do however support all adapters, though newer with later firmware is recommended:
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha#compatible-hardware
Only for that reason are Texas Instruments based Zigbee Coordinator recommended over a Silabs one.
Posting that is the Zigbee section in a thread discussing Zigbee could be considered trolling. Anyway, Zigbee, Z-Wave, Thread, EnOcean, and Bluetooth are all much better then Wi-Fi when it comes to battery-operated devices because they do not need to sleep as deep and wake up faster so offer better response and battery life. Those are facts about those technologies and not subjective anecdotes. Regardless, this is the Zigbee section and if you guys want to discuss protocol religion about other protocols then may I suggest considering posting such discussions elsewhere instead.