2-Gang wall switch


I have almost every light in my house ‘smart’. Whereas I can still use them manually (FTW = for the wife :sweat_smile:).

There are three lights left, that I’ve postponed since they have 2-gang switches.
For my 1-gang lights, I use MOES Push Switches (these).

Of course they have 2-gang switches, but I want some help with the wiring/buying the right products.

So the aim here is to always have the back-up of manualy pressing the switch to turn on/off the lights, even if there is no connection with HA/Internet.
I soley use Zigbee in my setup.

These are the 3 lights I have left to smart-ify.

Attic light:
On the 2nd floor, this is the current wall switch:

On the 1st floor, this is the current wall switch:

The socket on the 2nd floor is important, since my washing machine is hooked up there.

Light 1st floor (stairs)

On the first floor, this is the current wall switch:

On the ground floor, this is the current wall switch, where the left switch is for the lights on the 1st floor:

Hall light
The right key of the wall switch in the last picture turns on/off the hall light.

Does anyone has sugguestions on how to get this nicely working? I was not able to make pictures of the wiring at the moment, but if they are a necessity I can provice them of course.

Just install an Aqura t2 relay in places you can’t install the full switch replacement for a zigbee one else use shelly 1pm for wifi.

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With the chance of sounding stupid:

If I buy a 2-gang switch (ground floor) and put the Aqura t2 relay at the 1st floor, how does it operate? Do I need to tie everything together software wise? How will I be guarenteed it still works ‘offline’ ?

A relay and a smart switch are the exact same thing the only difference is that a relay does not come attached to a physical switch.

the t2 and shelly relay’s are local only relays, you are just putting them between your physical switch and the outputs they already control to make them smart.

If you already have a 2 gang smart switch that will fit in the places that you want to swap with then ignore the relay as again its for spots where you can’t install a smart switch as a replacement to get your setup you are looking for.

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Since I have room to replace two of the switches, it would be easier to buy them.
I’ve watched the video and it was very helpfull. A single Gang is so easy by just replacing the switch. I feel a bit uncomfortable since it is a new thing for me (2-Gang).

I don’t need to use a relay at both switches, just at one point. Right?

Can you confirm the setup can work?

Hall light

Attic light

So to confirm the ones with the power socket are tied to another switch at each location?

Yes, the switches with the power socket aren’t connected to the same light.

Both lights (hall and attic) have:
1 switch with power socket + 1 switch without a power socket.

You need to make sure that the smart switch you pick has the option for a common wire that is shared with the socket switch you want to connect I would say, I would get an electrician out just to validate what wires are for where and what is the best smart switch to use for your setup needs for this situation.

Else I would remove the power socket switch from the common side of the main switch and just put in a relay directly in the socket switch to control it directly separate of the main switch that will only handle the lights.

example of how these are usually wired:


Socket F, these are usually not controlled by a switch, just put in the same box with a switch.

I think this would be best…

This is the diagram of the MOES switches:

The general idea with the setup is to have the 3rd switch act as a toggle so that it’s always opposite to what the main switch is set hence the common if using a direct smart switch/relay setup that has the option which the t2 does (at the bottom it has SW1, SW2 and COM) you can wire in the 3rd switch to the com port on it and set it up in the settings to control them this way without replacing your current switches fully.

I worry that the relay will te be to big to put in the space I’ve behind the switches. I’ll check the dimensions and see if it will fit.

So the setup, with the T2 will be that I only need two of them. On to put behind the wall switch without the power outlets?

Just one, you’d probably need a spacer or some 3d printed ones

I really hoped to keep the outlets flushed with my walls. For one of the places it’s an option, but not for my hall lights.