Hello everyone, looking for an outlet/receptacle with z-wave or zigbee that is at least 20 amps and has energy monitoring. Or at the very least a WiFi version that can connect to HA.
My goal is to have energy monitoring for my home lab in grafana on HA. I did find Swidget which you can make your own outlet with but at least from Amazon the reviews are bad.
Everything that I found so far has been 15amps so hoping to see if anyone has a 20 amp version.
Thanks!
Edit: I am in the US
What country ? Makes a huge difference.
The US, sorry about that.
I use this to measure current inside panels and sub-panels. Link is to USA site but shelly is a european company and make for that market as well. They have some din rail IoT that are really interesting.
This is a bit ambiguous. We don’t measure circuits that way it’s specified by the MAXIMUM output. So UP to 20? Or UP to what? (what’s the actual circuit rating - and if you don’t know a picture of the outlet or breaker will tell us if it’s wired correctly)
Up to 15a most metering plugs will do unless it’s an inductive (motor) load for those you’ll need something like the Zooz or GE heavy duty. I know the Zooz has metering (be careful to throttle it down - it’s noisy on defaults) ZWave and heavy metering reports don’t work well together.
That will cover you up to what a 20a plug does. But then you start getting into strange NEMA outlet configurations and multi phase current
Pretty much on Northamerica configurations once you get past 30 amps you need a clamp style energy meter device like J pointed at. (Aeotec also makes one if you want ZWave as well as many others.). Or you can go completely overboard and put in a Span or Schneider smart panel. 
So is it a 20a circuit or?
Not to sound like an ass but I asked for a 20amp outlet so yes the circuit is 20amps. It’s the only outlet in the circuit and was ran solely for my rack.
I’m actually planning 30amps if needed in the future which is why I said at least 20amp.
I am trying to find an outlet or pluggable module that integrates with HA so I can monitor my electricity usage of my rack.
That’s my exact point that’s two separate devices. A 20 amp Or 30. It’s basically the cutoff… You don’t get both they have different plug configurations and in the US Usually a 30a plug is a two phase. Because of that a >30 one phase device is very specialized… So there is no ‘get a thirty just in case.’
This makes more sense. I didn’t know the difference in the plug. 20 amp then for sure. If I ever need to upgrade I’ll figure the 30 amp out then.
Probably just as important is wire gauge. A 20 amp circuit will be 12 gauge and a 30 amp circuit will be 10 gauge. So if the circuit was wired for 20 amps it will be wired with 12 gauge. The insulation is the limiting factor.
Here is the ampacity chart from NFPA 70 (NEC)
I have 3 servers, 2 switches, 1 router, 1 cloud key, alarm system, four access points (poe) and FTTH all running on a 20 amp circuit. I have an ups in front off all the equipment and battery backup for the whole house. The rack uses about 0.7 kW as a base load. The current draw is about 6 amps.
The shelly em is a viable solution and I monitor 4 circuits in two panels. It is wifi v z-wave or zigbee.
I hope this helps
For my part, I can recommend the Tuya 20A Wifi smart socket, which has a power output of up to 4,600 watts. It has a built-in energy measurement function and works well with many devices connected directly to the network, and is reasonably priced too.
This is my solution if it’s for the It closet it needs to be on UPS.
Therefore, get a UPS compatible with NUT and pull power info off that.
Didn’t know about NUT. Thanks I am looking into it.
I ran a 10/2 romex for future proofing, I am looking at 20amps to start off though
I did actually come across this but not a ton of info on it. I am assuming it works well in HA?
UPS isnt what I am looking for although it works. I have solar + battery for the house already so dont care too much about putting 5 servers and several switches on a UPS.
I have two SPAN panels, and am currently working battery generator and solar options… Power is important built it right at the infrastructure first. I feel ya, you don’t ‘need another battery’
It lets your net/telecom stack survive any disruption in power due to switching. Doesn’t need to last weeks - your big batteries will do that. This one just needs to last enough for the amount of time it takes to safely power down the gear. The house battery doesn’t nor should it care. It should just give power on demand to the circuits marked to have it. If it can communicate to power down the gear through an automation then you should also be able to read the power data.
Given a high quality smart switch with metering that can handle the amperage in the US will run approximately $60. A small UPS that can work with NUT starts at about $85…(look at the cheap cyberpower ones I didn’t say it was the best but they do the job better than a smartplug)
All things considered Im getting the UPS.
I agree that the UPS in front of the rack is still good practice. I have 25.6kW of battery storage to time-shift me through the nights and high peak periods. It is about 16 hours of base load on the house. It reacts instantaneously to power outages; so it is whole house UPS.
I did not buy an ups which will work with NUT unfortunately. When this ups dies in a few years, I know what I will upgrade to. Thanks for the info.
Also to [ccigas]: I would insure that the outlet was rated by mfg to accept 10 gauge wire. Most 20 amp outlets are designed for 12 AWG. If the outlet is not installed per mfg instructions and you have a fire from it, insurance will not pay. NFPA 70 allows for upsizing of conductors as long as the outlets are compatible.
Regards
