6,3V switch

Hardware
1

Hello,

I have a control box that, when certain conditions are met, ensures that a socket receives power (alternating current of 220V). There is also a button on this control box, which when pressed ensures that the socket also receives power.

I would have liked to have been able to activate this button via home assistant.

So I thought of installing an Aqara Single Switch Module T1 to bridge this button, but… the button works on direct current of 6.3V and so the aqara is not possible.

Can this be achieved by self-build and if so, how?

2

The Aqara still is possible…

Let the Aqara switching a relays with potential free contacts, like this one:

Job done…

3

If you are OK with Wifi switches, then Shelly 1 has dry contact

But maybe it’s an even better idea to use Shelly1 as a controller for the socket? (it’s small enough o fit behind the socket)

4

Could you elaborate this, cause I don’t understand (sorry, have not a lot of knowledge of electricity…).

This is the button (only 2 of 4 wires need to be bridged).

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If possible to make a drawing of it, it makes it sometimes more easy to understand :wink:

@maxym : I contacted shelly and they send me this response : “Unfortunately we don’t have a device that has 6.3V power supply.”. I want to bridge the button, not the socket.

5

I believe Shelly responded incorrectly.
Probably a misunderstanding, the Shelly has dry contacts as far as I’m aware, which means the in and out works just like your button.

But correct me if I’m wrong, but you posted about this previously? I think I asked you to make sure what cable does what on this button using a multimeter.

6

afbeelding
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This is assuming, that both switches on the button are normally open. For normally closed you will need to use the contacts 11, 21, 12, 22

Like this, you can use the Aqara to power on the machine, but also still can use the button.

7

Do I need the neutral line, cause I have one Aqara switch without neutral… ?

I presume I only can connect the red lines too, cause the other wires is for the led inside the button (to mention there is a problem somewhere).

8

Oh, yes, that was not clear, if two of the connections are for a LED inside the button, you cant connect the relay to it, it will shorten the LED circuit and damage it. It looked to me as a double switch :slight_smile:

So, forget the blue ones :wink:

The Aqara maybe will work without neutral, but the relay would not.

9

Meanwhile I have a multimeter :wink:

This is what I measure :

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When I push the button it goes to zero.

10

So you mean like this :

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And what is the switch on S0 ?

11

no, not like this. L and N are 230V, you have to take them, where the mains power comes in.

The switch on S0 is optional, you don’t need it. It could be the third place, where you can power on your machine.

The red wires have stil to go on 21,24, as on my pic.

12

Oh, I will see if can get those 230V wires…

I did this because of this :

My multimeter gives me 4,82V when the button is not pushed, so I presumed the switch is normally closed…no ?

And what happens with the actual wires from the board to the switch ?

13

Meanwhile I checked and yes, I have access to 230V wires too !

Correct me if I’m wrong, but for the Shelly 1 I would only do this connections :

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14

that is correct

15

Thanks, just ordered a shelly 1 :grinning:

1 Like
16

the point with Shelly1 is it has dry contacts (its switch’ contacts are separated from the rest of shelly). So you can power the shelly1 with AC 230V, controlling your button without ptoblem. Note afaik only Shelly1 has dry contacts. Other models don’t

edit: haha, seems others helped you do buy Shelly1 already :wink: