I have read a number of the posts here in this group seems to be pretty knowledgeable so I was hoping I could get some advice on how to proceed.
I have installed Amico Smart Wi-Fi enabled LED recessed lighting in all my rooms. The automation and integration with HomeKit and Alexa seem to work great.
The downside is it requires a basic on/off switch at the wall. It does not support in-line dimming, and when I turned it off, it is no longer accessible via the WiFi or home automation.
I’ve been trying to find a wall switch that can be programmed to use the home automation to control the lights via WiFi (like the mobile app), but give the user the sense they are controlling them like traditional light switches, but I can’t seem to find a switch like this. They all seem to me “smart” so that they can control the light physically via the electric power line.
Of course there’s the other scenario that I have to address… If the Wi-Fi goes down, ideally there would be a backup method to turn the lights on and off (like a small switch that overrides the power).
I’m really hoping this is such a basic question for you guys with experience. But this is my first home automation project so I’m racking my brain. My next step is to integrate my tuya-based smart lock and new ecobee thermostat, but this light problem is first!
Friends of Hue switches are just battery powered Zigbee buttons.
They comes in different forms depending on what market you are in, so they fit in with typical installations in the market.
Search for Friends of Hue to get an idea, then look at Zigbee and maybe RF switches in general.
WiFi switches are not that good, because WiFi either requires a constant connection that eats the battery or a slow handshake to reconnect, which adds a noticeable delay.
Thanks for the reply. What configuration would you recommend that can overcome the issue of the lights going offline (no power) when using a traditional wall switch, thus rendering any home automation using the lights useless?
Use smart lights and wire the light power permanently on. Use some other smart button or module and an automation to control the light. This suffers the issue that you can’t control your lights if home assistant is down and is not recommended.
Use dumb lights and smart switches or dimmers. In this case you have smart control from home assistant but manual control as well - even if home assistant is off line. This is the recommended set up.
third option, as extention to the first mentioned by tom, use dedicated smart buttons/switches which can directly communicate with your light appliance.
Zigbee protocol gives such an option as for example.
If your wifi lights have http api, you can toggle them by calling http command. then you can use for example Shelly i3 or i4 (or any other Shelly device) hidden under wall-switch and wired to it, to command bulb to toggle.
This way it makes bulb independent on HA, at the same time it may remained controlled/monitored by HA
Zigbee button and zigbee bulb can make connection between eachother. they don’t need any network/coordinator. at the same time they can sync coordinator if available.
Thats the beauty of this solution.
I admit that my proposal with smart switch controlling wifi light is sensitive to wifi availability. but this is extention to your point #1. it’s at least independent from HA.
the best way (availability wise) is to have smartswitch wired to wall-switch controlling power of a (dumb) bulb - as you mentioned.
Use switches which are not connected to the light and leave the dumb switches in place besides the smart switches.
Nearly all smart lamps/bulbs will have a fail safe that turn them on if the power is cut and return, so in case HA is down, then the dumb switch can still turn on a light.
The better smart lamps/bulbs can also be configured to what setup they should turn on after a power out, while the worse of them will just turn on at full power and brightness.
I see a market for 3D printed removable covers that can go over light switches and hold a remote .
Anyway, it seems the OP has already gone and installed smart lights, and not just bulbs but integrated recessed lights, so if they don’t want to change back to dumb lights I can understand that.
Given that the lights are Wifi, a Wifi connected switch would make sense, so you are not dependent on two networks.
I know the Sonoff miniR4 has a detached relay mode, so you can build it in and use your old switch but it will not cut power to the light. I don’t know if it has some offline method to reconnect the relay so you can still use it when the network is offline though. It’s just on-off of course, but you could combine that with any remote dimmer for brightness and color control.
I have a similar situation with smart bulbs and decided to replace the wall switch with a WiFi switch running Tasmota, an open-source firmware that allows for a very high degree of customization. This way, I could configure a single button press to send an automation signal to the bulbs, and configure a different action (double-press) to toggle the physical power relay in case the WiFi is down. As noted above, this always works to turn the lights off but to turn on requires bulbs to support auto-on when power restored (my bulbs run Tasmota, too).
I’m unfamiliar with tasmota but this application seems promising. Sounds like you are doing exactly what I’m looking for. I need to research to see if it will work with my lights.
I appreciate the input from everyone. I’ll test a few options and get back after some experimentation.
I live in the US where Lanbon L8 is available.
I use both the switch version for smart bulbs and the dimmer version for regular dimmable bulbs.
I’m running openHASP on these and the combination of the L8 switch and smart bulbs give me full control at the switch including setting temperature and color of the bulb. I can even control each bulb separately. In addition I use the switch to quickly control other lights in the house.
Very few limitations - other than it does require a neutral wire.
Bonus. It has built in power meter and a “moodlight” which I use to indicate if any doors or windows are opened somewhere in my house.
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