Hello all,
I use an Ikea Silverglans Tradfri LED driver in the bathroom with three Silverglans Led strips (approx. 15W). It is permanently powered, there is no switch, as I integrate it into a daytime-dependent automation.
My problem:
The leds are off during the day and in that state (but also with very dimmed light) I have a very loud coil whine. I went to Ikea today and listened to the drivers on display and found none that didn’t have the problem. So I assume that they all have it.
Therefore, I am looking for an alternative driver with which I can ideally use the original led strips from Ikea.
Here is some info about the devices:
Output Voltage 24V
I’m not familiar with dimmable leds, are there differences in the way they dim? Can anyone recommend an alternative driver (with zigbee) that does not have problems with coil whine?
Have you tried clear nail varnish on the inductors? It’s an old hack to stop coil buzz - just let it dry before powering up.
There are several analogue LED dimmers that work up to 24V DC (e.g. Shelly RGBW2) but their use case is typically 3x or 4x channel analogue LED tape (RGB/ RGBW). Although each channel could be used for one strip of LEDs, I’d check for compatibility with AC and DC - and get a voltmeter on the driver unit.
Don’t get confused with neo-pixel LEDs which daisy-chain a serial data bus for individual control - e.g. via WLED).
Hey James,
thanks for the idea with the Shelly. That would suit me very well, as I already use other Shellys and am familiar with their configuration.
I will first check with the multimeter what is coming out of the driver (especially in the dimmed state).
I also thought about the solution with the nail varnish, but I had the driver open today and the component that I identified as the source of the sound seems to be a encapsulated transformer where I can’t get to the coils. So I ruled that out as a solution. But I might be wrong, it’s not easy to hear where the sound is coming from.
An insulated plastic chopstick applied to the cheek bone sometimes works as a rubbish stethoscope - same as used by car mechanics, just with the added danger of mains voltage, so apply appropriate caution! (isolation transformer, rubber mat, gloves, VDE pliers, etc).
Hey James,
it worked! No sound to be heard. Thank you very much!
Should anyone come across this topic, here are the components used:
Shelly RGBW 2
POS FTPC 24 Volt DC 20 W (You might need a stronger one, Ikea Silverglans is designed for max. 30 W.). It just depends on how many strips you want to connect).
My next suggestion is to add a IF statement to your light automation to only turn the LEDs on at 10% brightness at night - saves the eyes if you need to visit the bathroom in the small hours.
I’ve got a Shelly RGBW2 running Tasmota to test myself soon (Cat5e wires fit the tiny programming headers to flash with TasmotiZer).
That is exactly what I intended to do with it
I have a Shelly i3 on the light switch. The ceiling light (Ikea Floalt) and the (now rebuilt) light on the mirror are permanently supplied with power. Three scenes (day, night, off). Between 7 a.m. and 7:59 p.m. day is activated via the light switch, between 8 p.m. and 6:59 a.m. night (at around 20%). If any lamp is active, Off is activated.
this post!