Anyone tried to add Vasco radiator (heater) with BAS Connector?

Yes, I have the E-Volve WiFi - try to do something with the IP address - without results for now :sweat_smile:

In case nobody has started to investigate yet, your step 1 could be to sniff network traffic: see what’s happening when you send the various commands.

Yes - I will try this - any suggestions for a good network sniffer?

You can try Wireshark. :slight_smile:

I have some data from Wireshark - but I’m not a programmer - is there anyone who can help? It should be nice to have this Wifi adapter from Vasco implemented in HA

Frame 2000: 142 bytes on wire (1136 bits), 142 bytes captured (1136 bits) on interface \Device\NPF_{D6C468F8-109C-4747-B624-3AA26F4234B6}, id 0
    Interface id: 0 (\Device\NPF_{D6C468F8-109C-4747-B624-3AA26F4234B6})
        Interface name: \Device\NPF_{D6C468F8-109C-4747-B624-3AA26F4234B6}
        Interface description: Ethernet
    Encapsulation type: Ethernet (1)
    Arrival Time: Jan 13, 2022 16:03:53.020090000 West-Europa (standaardtijd)
    [Time shift for this packet: 0.000000000 seconds]
    Epoch Time: 1642086233.020090000 seconds
    [Time delta from previous captured frame: 0.092224000 seconds]
    [Time delta from previous displayed frame: 3.991010000 seconds]
    [Time since reference or first frame: 40.423589000 seconds]
    Frame Number: 2000
    Frame Length: 142 bytes (1136 bits)
    Capture Length: 142 bytes (1136 bits)
    [Frame is marked: False]
    [Frame is ignored: False]
    [Protocols in frame: eth:ethertype:ip:udp:adwin_config]
    [Coloring Rule Name: UDP]
    [Coloring Rule String: udp]
Ethernet II, Src: Espressi_02:4c:34 (7c:9e:bd:02:4c:34), Dst: Broadcast (ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff)
    Destination: Broadcast (ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff)
        Address: Broadcast (ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff)
        .... ..1. .... .... .... .... = LG bit: Locally administered address (this is NOT the factory default)
        .... ...1 .... .... .... .... = IG bit: Group address (multicast/broadcast)
    Source: Espressi_02:4c:34 (7c:9e:bd:02:4c:34)
        Address: Espressi_02:4c:34 (7c:9e:bd:02:4c:34)
        .... ..0. .... .... .... .... = LG bit: Globally unique address (factory default)
        .... ...0 .... .... .... .... = IG bit: Individual address (unicast)
    Type: IPv4 (0x0800)
Internet Protocol Version 4, Src: 192.168.178.251, Dst: 255.255.255.255
    0100 .... = Version: 4
    .... 0101 = Header Length: 20 bytes (5)
    Differentiated Services Field: 0x00 (DSCP: CS0, ECN: Not-ECT)
        0000 00.. = Differentiated Services Codepoint: Default (0)
        .... ..00 = Explicit Congestion Notification: Not ECN-Capable Transport (0)
    Total Length: 128
    Identification: 0x4000 (16384)
    Flags: 0x00
        0... .... = Reserved bit: Not set
        .0.. .... = Don't fragment: Not set
        ..0. .... = More fragments: Not set
    ...0 0000 0000 0000 = Fragment Offset: 0
    Time to Live: 255
    Protocol: UDP (17)
    Header Checksum: 0x07c9 [validation disabled]
    [Header checksum status: Unverified]
    Source Address: 192.168.178.251
    Destination Address: 255.255.255.255
User Datagram Protocol, Src Port: 55565, Dst Port: 55565
    Source Port: 55565
    Destination Port: 55565
    Length: 108
    Checksum: 0x2fb3 [unverified]
    [Checksum Status: Unverified]
    [Stream index: 3]
    [Timestamps]
        [Time since first frame: 40.007752000 seconds]
        [Time since previous frame: 3.991010000 seconds]
    UDP payload (100 bytes)
ADwin configuration protocol
    Command: Unknown (16843009)
    Version: 1090584833
    MAC address: Private_01:01:01 (01:01:01:01:01:01)
    Unused
    Server IP: 1.1.1.1
    Unused
    Netmask: 1.1.1.1
    Unused
    Gateway IP: 1.1.1.1
    Unused
    DHCP enabled: True
    Port (32bit): 1163026255
    Password: LAYBOX
        [Expert Info (Warning/Undecoded): Trailing stray characters]
            [Trailing stray characters]
            [Severity level: Warning]
            [Group: Undecoded]
    Enable Bootloader: True
    Unused
    Description: e:bd:02:4c:34\001\001\001
    Date: \001\001\001\001\001\001\001\001
    Revision: \001\001\001\001\001\001\001\001
    Processor Type (Raw value): \001\001
    Processor Type: Unknown
    System Type (Raw value): \001
    System Type: Unknown

I am running (well, it is ordered, not there yet) the exact same config as @Pandabeer40
Obviously I would very much to have this integrated in HA. As fas as I know it comes with an app to control the thing: BAS unit which seems to be a simple wire connection to the heater. The real cleverness is in the wifi module connected to mains. How and what? Dunno yet. Happy to help testing by then!
Maybe it could be something like the Baxi thermostat (BAXI TXM / RXM 10c OpenTherm thermostat - HA integration) which basically is the same as the Remeha e-Twist (which I will get).

Mister Domaray did a nice analysis and seems to have it working using node-red and some API trial and error: http://domaray.com/2021/12/21/termostato-baxi-connect-integracion-en-home-assistant/ which is in Spanish but we all know google translate for your local language :wink:

@erickranendijk did you order only the BAS connector? Or did you order the evolve wifi?

If you ordered only the BAS connector, you will soon find out that there is nothing fancy going on. It is really only a phase and neutral wire. Which means on/off and that’s it. It does make that automation very easy, though. You can use any z-wave / ZigBee / wifi relay switch to automate it.
There is a little bit extra you need to do to comply to the eco standards.

If you ordered the wifi unit (or the Rf unit, for that matter), then there is some research you can do. For the wifi version you can use tools such as Wireshark to sniff the network and try to figure out the API calls.
For the RF unit it is much easier, just use an RF sniffer and send those commands yourself.

Another option could be to figure out what the unit is running, it could be an esp, or maybe it even is a TuYa device. Then you can try to flash the esp and/or use local TuYa for example. You would still need to know everything about the pins etc.

Hi @henrykuijpers I ordered both BAS connector and evolve wifi module. The non fancy part bout the BAS connector I was already aware of :blush:
Was in doubt however if the wifi or RF module would be the best choice, since I also have a rfxcom XL module. As there is 0 info about the rf frequency, I assumed the wifi module would be the better choice. I have no sniffer for rf. The rfxcom xl supports kaku, somfy and allmost all other standard rf devices like weather stations.

As far as diy: there is a WAF factor in place and since the entire bathroom is renewed, this factor should involve little visible diy. As “they” will always know it happened :grin:

Basically, it should be possible to say hey google turn on fancy heating. Or have it turned on based on conditions like temperature and humidity (builtin sensor in new itho ecofan). Then use automations to optimize for duration etc.

Just keep thinking about this. How about KNX - Home Assistant?
The module uses knx, then some sort of knx ip interface or router seems needed. Not sure what that is… not new in networking (as it is my profession) but never heard of or seen such an animal.

Ideas?

Edit: nevermind the knx thing. Router is as expensive as the heating :crazy_face:

Are you saying that the BAS connector uses knx? Various people from Vasco have confirmed over and over again that it was only a neutral and phase wire.

Back when i was choosing the bas connector, i was assuming it would speak knx, but i soon found out it didn’t. I found that out by speaking to Vasco, as well as inspecting the “unit”, there really seems to be just 2 wires, that’s it. I’d be surprised if the expensive piece of plastic is in fact hiding a print that does knx communication.

Or are you saying that the wifi version is supporting knx?

Knx is one of the more mature platforms for “building automation”, GIRA for example has a complete programme around it. It is very expensive, though. I’m not sure if it would be possible to find knx stuff for cheap and/or easily. And i also don’t know if you only need a network (and probably wifi) for it to work. I.e., if HA can be your knx server.

The wifi module, as far as internet tells me. Vasco can’t tell a thing. The BAS connector is (as anyone tells me) just a piece of expensive plastic with 2 wires. So KNX is set aside by me.

I’ll just have to wait till it is in, teh I will do some digging… until then work with what I know.
(and meanwhile hoping for someone to decrypt the magic evolve wifi box :grin: )

So now I ordered the evolve wifi and BAS connector, as I would like to use its possibilities for telling the heater how much it should heat (not 100% all the time). Knowing how it works and have that integrated in HA as a result.
Connecting the BAS (so not using the evolve wifi module) to a shelly would result in on-off only so 100% or 0%. Correct?

I am not concerned about open windows…

@Pandabeer40 got some data, but it wasn’t the right data. You would really have to use your mobile app (not the unit itself) to invoke commands, then verify that the unit receives them and takes the according action.
Then, you would need to sniff that network traffic to find out what actually happened in terms of http(s?) traffic. You probably stumble across some kind of API call. That would be your starting point for making the complete picture of all the http calls that are possible.


Indeed, as far as I know, connecting the bas connector results in 2 options: on or off.

Actually, i haven’t installed the radiator yet, but i can connect it to power and see it work etc. Maybe that would be convenient.

Vasco has told me that it would result in indeed full blown heating, or no heating at all. So you wouldn’t be able to specify that it should heat at 50% of what it can do or something.

I wonder how that wifi unit works, though. Maybe it will also do full blown heating until the desired temperature is reached? If not, it would be interesting how that module is connected to the radiator, maybe it would be possible to set up the BAS connector to work the same way.
It would probably mean that a simple Shelly (or similar) would then do on/off, but another device could potentially do the desired action where percentages can be involved?

I decided about my setup. Cancelled the wifi module and ordered the bas module, will attach it to a kaku acm 2000 builtin module so I can control it using my existing rfxcom.
Add a temperature sensor in the bathroom, some automations et voila!

Both other options (vasco wifi or rf module) will take too much time to investigate after the heater is in place and will have a negative impact on waf factor. (why should I use the ha app, it is working well for weeks on the vasco app → end of story :crazy_face: )

However: there are dimmer switches… maybe maybe that could work to control the power? Basically it is a heating element. Or is that too simple of a thought?

That is too bad! I was curious for your findings on the wifi module, especially about the whole heating controller.

If you configure the desired bathroom temperature to 25 degrees and it is currently 20, will it start heating at 100% power (power=on)?
And if the desired temperature is reached, will it stop (power=off)? Or will it continue heating at a lower power supply? I.e. less amps being provided?
Of not, will it just stop, let the temperature slowly decrease and then turn on again at full capacity? And keep doing this flickering? Which sounds pretty inefficient yo me and also not good for any relay switch that would be inside the wifi / rf unit (and also not for our Shelly, smart switch, … Or similar).

My main question is: is it really on/off, or is there also something between on and off?
If we find out how the RF or wifi unit is controlling the heater, we could mimic that with home automation. :slight_smile:


Yes, i was thinking the same thing about dimmers, too!

@henrykuijpers too bad indeed, but the investment versus chance of succes and waf factor made me end up to this decision.
As far as I know (installation is week 33 soonest) it is on-off. So 0% or 100%. As the bathroom is not that big I do not expect a lot of flickering. There will and must be a temperature sensor in place (aqara zigbee) to tell the beast to stop. Thinking about 5 minute on-off or so. Should be enough. The switch should be able to handle that, or… ? It is the kaku acm-2000 which is capable of switching 2000 Watts.

The dimmer is a different story… just try to find one >1000 Watts…

Try the setup first, if all fails then it will be soon enough to order the wifi thing. Or rf maybe as I have an rfxcom in place.
So for now I will stop spoiling this topic, as my solution is not what te original request was about :grin:
Will update with live findings ofcourse.

By the way: Vasco identifies clearly in their documentation that connecting the heater to domotica is possible using the BAS connector only (disclaimers about sensors blah). To me it seems that is always a 0%-100% option?

People are working on the new shower now and all goodies were delivered yesterday. At first I ordered both bas connector and E-Volve WiFi module. Then I decided to go for just the bas connector, which will be switched by means of a kaku relay to be integrated in HA using an external temp/humidity sensor🙂
So I cancelled the bas + E-Volve WiFi combo.

Guess what? Now I have both the bas connector AND the bas + E-Volve WiFi combo :joy:

I can play around with it, only disadvantage is I cannot connect it to the heating as the other bas will be used there. That shouldn’t be a problem however. It has an external sensor for checking ambient temperature. Should at any case provide data to swithch the E-Volve WiFi, regardless if the heater is connected or not.
Any suggestions on how to check what the thing is doing? Is wireshark the best option to sniff? Anyone else already made some progress, just to prevent reinventing the wheel…

And some pics, the E-Volve WiFi sticker tells me BT?



It would be very interesting to connect the Wifi unit and then figure out what happens when the unit decides that the desired temperature is not the current temperature.

It should start to heat the radiator, of course. But we seem to have determined that the heating is either on or off.

It would be interesting to measure the voltage as well as the amperage of the power going into the radiator unit. Maybe it is somehow able to handle different currents, causing the unit to not always heat at full power?


With regards to trying to add the wifi unit into home assistant, we would need to be able to send commands to the unit and/or receive data from the unit.

The easiest way to do that is of course to install the Vasco app, which allows you to operate the radiator. When pushing a button (i.e., turn on the radiator), something should happen:
Either something is sent to the Vasco cloud, or something is sent directly to the radiator

Indeed, a tool such as Wireshark would allow you to intercept that piece of communication and figure out what is happening there. Things such as the endpoint that is being called, the (JSON? XML?) payload that is sent, authentication tokens?, … etc.

As soon as that is known, we could try to make those requests outside of the Vasco app. Something that in the end can be done from a HA integration module.

@erickranendijk I sent you a message on Facebook, btw, maybe we can communicate a bit more efficiently. :slight_smile:

@henrykuijpers there are 2 of me. Really :grin: Did not receive anything… and do preferrably not use messenger.
But to be honest, after my findings of today I’ll leave the unit inside its box until time permits to play around.
I unboxed the wifi module and connected it to mains. No radiator attached as that is still living in its box waiting to be installed. Currently there is no need for heating unless you like temperatures above 35C.
The unit turned on and presented a blue light meaning it is ready to pair in BT. Installed the app, and ran the wizard to hook up the wifi module to my network. Timeout.
Tried to reset the module according to the manual. No response. Power cycle. No response. Reset again and it gave me an alternating red and green flashing light. Used the prescribed reconnect procedure. No luck. Tried different times, still no luck.
Done. Unhooked it and have put it back in the box. Could be it is really missing the heating, winter project. For now it will be the Kaku relay combined with the bas connector and the aqara temp sensor. Which looks surprisingly much alike the sensor provided with the wifi unit.

I could not help to open the wifi module and make some pics. It seems hackable to me. ESP chip and exposed i/o without header pins.



I am also about to purchase an electric vasco radiator and was wondering if there has been any progress with regard to integrating it into home assistant @erickranendijk and @henrykuijpers ?