My lux sensor is working, no problems
How did you set it up? What height? I donāt have this experience with ceilling mounted in a corner with a angle looking in the room.
Itās on the wall in the middle a of room. The aqara app is reporting lux levels correctly and the numbers are similar to the motion sensor. So itās āseeingā the light correctly but not sending to home assistant.
Should I delete and re-add via homekit?
You can try that if you didnāt 
I donāt know what is wrong.
I did nothing special to get it working the first time I added the sensor.
do you know if I can just remove the device from the homekit device integration and HA will re-discover it? Iād like to avoid having the reset the fp2 and re-do all the zones as that was painful enough 
Never did that before so I donāt know.
Did you test this?
I believe the Aqara app may allow one to backup their current layout/configuration. You may want to try doing that first before removing it from HomeKit. In the Zone Management, click the icon in the upper right corner of the screen, enter a Template Name, then click SAVE in top-right corner. Now, when you go back to the Zone Management page, at the bottom click Template, then click āMyā instead of āRecommendā. You should see your saved template. This way, you should be able to restore that template quickly, should something go wrong during the unpairing from Apple HomeKit process.
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Sorry, did not get the chance to look at it before.
I successfully removed and re-added the homekit devide and the light level is now updating.
I did not have to reset the FP2 itself.
@ogiewon, thanks for the tip tho, I did save my layout, might be useful later!
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Yes! Thatās exactly how I provision my FP2. I wrote the whole HA process here:
Hey Folks
I have an FP2 installed and working in the Aqara app. Iām trying to get it into Home Assistant and struggling.
It didnāt auto-detect so I tried adding an entry though the Homekit Device integration. When I click on āAdd Entryā, this opens:
I select the FP2 as shown andā¦nothing happens. Its just sits there whirling and whirling. So HA has clearly recognised itās there, any ideas how to proceed?
Thanks
**** UPDATE ****
I pulled the power cord, left it out for 30secs and plugged it back in. It was immediately discovered once powered up 
Bizarre!
So quiet, no review of the new fw?
The 1.1.9 firmware has solved most of my false detection problems.
I may be that the sensor does not always see multiple people but that is also very hard to implement in practical so I never had any hopes that this would be super reliable. The most important feature is that it detects presence when there are someone and no presence when noone is there.
In the past week I have seen 1 or 2 situations where a sensor did not stop sensing presence after the last person left. Before all my 3 sensors would do this many many times each day.
Especially the 1 of my 3 sensors which is outdoors has improved a lot. Before it would always detect someone somewhere in the garden. Now it is pretty reliable. It will make false detections when it rains so heavily that water splashes over the edge of the gutter. I cannot blame it. It is a vertical moving object of water. That is what a human is.
I can recommend 1.1.9 over 1.1.8 any time. I have little experience with 1.1.7 and prior
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Well it seems that there is no need to swap my 5 EP1 for these. They have worked flawless from start so they can stay. Thanks for the update
I also have 3 FP1s and they are flawless now as long as they have a reliable Zigbee route back to the coordinator. If you do not care about zones and like to play with that, then there is no advantage in changing to FP2
I use EP 1 from Lewis at Everything Smarthome. Work flawless
I thought you had mistyped FP1 as EP1.
The EP1 is a combination of a basic millimeter radar sensors and a PIR sensor. And really cool.
I rooms where I need immediate response when I enter a room and also need the light to stay on when we are present I always use a combination of the two kinds of detectors exactly like the EP1 is doing.
Rooms where this is important are rooms like bathrooms and kitchens where even a 3 second delay is annoying and where you either sit still or stand still.
The PIR advantage is that they are very fast and only detect moving objects that are warmer temperature than the room itself. So a curtain or door that moves will not trigger PIR sensors.
Millimeter radars are slower (if they are made to process the signals to identify objects as humans) but they are also able to detect small movements like breatings or moving just your hands.
So a good way to get safe detections is to use both. If you already have PIR detectors and buy or build a millimeter radar detector - then it is a good idea to use BOTH in parallel.
If you often have windows open and curtains that move - you can change your automation so that the PIR detector turns the light ON. And the light turns OFF again when both PIR and mm wave are off.
Here is an example of an automation
workshop_motion is a PIR sensor (a Philips Hue sensor)
and workshop_radar_occupancy is a DIY mmwave radar sensor
I commented out the mmwave sensor to turn light on as wind moving blinds kept on turning light on
For turning light off I wait till both sensors are off. Moving blinds may delay the lights off but after a minute or so, light normally turns off.
I always check for light being on already before turning lights on. Two reasons.
- I do not want extra zigbee network traffic
- If you manually dim the light or turn one of the lamps off - you do not want motion to turn lights back to 100% all the time.
- id: 'Workshop_on_with_Motion'
alias: 'Workshop on with Motion'
initial_state: true
mode: restart
max_exceeded: silent
trigger:
- platform: state
entity_id: binary_sensor.workshop_motion
from: "off"
to: "on"
# - platform: state
# entity_id: binary_sensor.workshop_radar_occupancy
# from: "off"
# to: "on"
action:
- choose:
- conditions:
- condition: state
entity_id: light.workshop
state: 'off'
sequence:
- service: light.turn_on
data:
entity_id:
- light.workshop
brightness_pct: 100
- wait_template: >
{{ is_state('binary_sensor.workshop_radar_occupancy', 'off') and is_state('binary_sensor.workshop_motion', 'off') }}
# - delay: 60
- service: light.turn_off
data:
entity_id:
- light.workshop
This is an older automation. I think I would make it with if then now.
You need to use either a choose or if - then or similar in this automation because when the automation retriggers (motion detected and light is already on) you need the actions to continue after the condition statement so you always end in the - wait_template waiting for the sensors to turn off. If you put a condition statement straight in the action list, the automation would stop if the condition is not met and will never wait.
This would also be relevant with the FP2 as it is also a little slow to detect. Not much. Seconds. But when you enter a room where you work or which is totally dark like a bathroom, you want light NOW. And then the PIR/mmwave combo is brilliant.
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I have a EP1 in every room and they are great. I will use them in more automations when I have time but for now I am more than pleased with having them turn on and off lights.
Todayās iOS Aqara app adds the ability to delete a specific ghost in a room. Havenāt tried it myself, but might help the ML. Iāve had a few hiccups on 1.1.9 that I didnāt have on 1.1.6 (skipped the interim releases). Namely on 1.1.9 it keeps sensing presence even if the room is empty. Iāve had to use the presence reset a few times, whereas on 1.1.6 is was nearly flawless.
iOS also has other enhancements for interference zones and such.
Iām on 1.19 and integrated into HA, and I have to say itās pretty rubbish having bought the FP2 a few days ago. Slow response time and regularly shows someone still in a zone when they have left and moved to another zone, so lights donāt turn on and off as they should. Lots of ghosting and regularly shows 3,4 or even 5 people in a room when there is only 1 person in the room. Underwhelmed so far after two days useā¦ Even when room empty, zones are showing people in and it takes about ten minutes for them to clear and lights go out
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