I want to upgrade my locks in my new home to something more fashionable then e.g. Nuki.
This lock caught my eye:
I understand how I can integrate it in Home Assistant. I want to control the lock with a Shelly switch. However, the cable has many colored wires, all represent a state/sensor of the lock. (Dead bolt, etc) How do I integrate these from a electric cable to a sensor in Home Assistant? So then I can setup a template lock.
Not yet, will get the keys end of October. Im now looking to use the Shelly 1, as this one is capable of using 12v/24v dc. I looked at the Shelly Uni, but it gives to low of a current to switch the lock. So I figured that the lock will always be “locked” unless the switch is activated.
Shelly plus1 would be easiest way to go if you don’t need more than one microswitch input.
If you want them all, Esphome devboard and relay module is good option.
I’ve never used ESPHome stuff before.
Can you maybe recommend which hardware to start with?
The lock is operated by eiter 12V or 24V and maximum load it uses while locking/unlocking is 800mA, so I figure 1 amp to be sure. I’d love to just use a DIN transformer to power the switch or ESP Home module.
Like I mentioned, you only need Shelly plus1 and 12V >1A power supply.
If you go with Esphome route, you need Esp32 devboard (I prefer Wroom32), 3.3V triggered relay (or mosfet) module, 12V >1A power supply. While you can power most Esp32 boards from 12V to VIN, I prefer to power them from separate 5V power supply.
Don’t go too tight with PSU, if lock and controller draw 900mA, I wouldn’t pick 1A supply.
I understand the Shelly method, as I have those already running.
But I am new to ESP32. So basicly you are saying, that I can connecto to the ESP32 Wroom32 with a 12V DC/1A power supply and also connect this to the actuator/switch?
No.
My english is not so great, but should be clear enough to spot:
Most Esp32 devboards can be powered from 12V in VIN, but I prefer 5V. Why? Because the voltage regulator has to convert VIN voltage to 3.3V, from 12V just 3.3V is going to Esp and 8.7V is left on the voltage regulator. So 70% of the power is just converted to heat by voltage regulator.
I don’t recommend 12V1A power supply, instead use one with more than 1A. For example 12V 1.5A would be fine.