Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Hardware
2251

As noted in the Tasmota Blakadder template page - the 3-gang (Zemismart/Connect Smart/etc) KS-811 can’t be Tuya-converted. Pretty easy to do via serial BUT I’m getting semi-regular rolling reboot/resets. I can get as far as loading the template, setting up MQTT, but then within a few minutes it is back to “base” Tasmota, in AP mode.

I haven’t had this before with Tasmota - anyone got tips on semi-rolling reboots/resets with Tasmota?

2252

@buzurk

While I have moved over to DC fans which I control through a Broadlink RM4 to send RF codes. While I had an AC fan I ended up running one of the SRL 4 gang switches and connected the AC fans capacitors between 3 of the switches. It stopped the humming and also gave me 4 speeds :slight_smile: SW1, SW2, SW1+SW2 and SW3. Little weird.

I am also run a bunch of the 4 Gang switches (all converted to Tasmota) and they seem to be running well.

2253

I have bought a bunch of the BrilliantSmart switch mechs and dimmer mechs and they are all working fine in the Tuya app, so I am not trying to get them changed to ESPHome. I have flashed a switch mech, using the config from the DETA switch, but it doesnt work. Does anyone have one of these working on ESPHome? I saw up thread someone had posted a config for the dimmer mech, I will try that tomorrow.

2254

Has anyone also managed to convert the BrilliantSmart Intellicannser Wifi Outdoor PIR Sensor model 21016/09 or the Frontier Wifi Twin Security Light CCT LED model 20850/06 to ESPHome?

They are both working in Tuyasmart app, the security light is appearing in HA in the Tuya integration, the PIR sensor doesnt even appear since the Tuya integration doesnt support sensors.

I emailed BrilliantSmart support and asked if they would supply the GPIO pinouts and they said no.

2255

Is there a certified device for AU that can go inline on hard wired devices such as hot water, split systems etc that that can do the same power monitoring stuff that the smart plugs do? Ability to turn them off and on would be a secondary consideration as these things dont tend to need to be turned off. I assume we need to limit it to 2400W so would rule out the oven and induction cooktop unfortunately.

2256

There is something that @sparkydave has used and recommended that uses CT clamps (I think) on the line to the product. IoWatta or something like that I think it’s called.

1 Like
2257

CT clamps don’t need to be certified as you don’t connect to the mains. There is an esphome page with a link to some docs. https://esphome.io/components/sensor/ct_clamp.html

1 Like
2258

Depending on load, CT’s might be the best option.
Products like the Shelly1PM will do what you want, with limitation being it’s rating of 3.5kw, and even that would only be for a purely resistive load like a hot water element.

2259

Yeah you really want to go down the CT clamp route - i would highly recommend the IOTAWatt - expensive to get into initially but will then let you monitor upto 13 inputs.

The benefit of this over just a CT clamp is that it does proper voltage and phase monitoring on an ongoing basis so it calibrates as it goes (you plug a special AC transformer into a power and have this as the reference into the unit)

YOu can buy CT clamps to suit your different loads (including 3 phase)

highly recommended

Craig

2260

Hi Leyton,

Have you successfully flashed your Deta Inline switch (6000HA) with Tasmota and get it working?

I am having a little bit of problem and wonder if you could point me to the right direction.

I recently only bout the Deta switch from Bunnings about 2 weeks ago, and just flashed it with the latest Tuya-Convert/Tasmota.

It seemed ok, and I have set up all the config (MQTT topics, and the setOptions) as far as I can see,

However, when I issued a Power ON command, it appears that the LED will light up, but I don’t hear a click on the relay and I get no power coming out of the LOAD (Output) end. The button on the switch itself is also not toggling the relay to turn on or off.

I wonder if the template found here:

is still valid for the Deta Smart Inline switch, I wonder if they have changed some of their settings to a different set of GPIOs.

Any tips and guidance is really appreciated.

Thanks

2261

That Frontier Twin Security Light uses a WR3 Module, not an esp, if it’s the same model as mine.

IMG_20200507_210706
IMG_20200507_2107064032×3024 646 KB
It does have the same pinout as an esp8266 tho, so if your game you can try remove and replace. Just to note, it talks serial to another microcontroller that controls the lights, etc. I’m 3/4’s the way through writing custom firmware for an esp replacement. I’ve decoded everything and almost got it working.
image (2)
image (2)977×329 28.5 KB

2262

I did get it to work. I would have to find the raspberry pi + SD card somewhere in my pile of spares which I used to flash the to get the exact template (I flashed to ESPHome directly not Tasmota). Any idea if I can get the template or configuration directly from the device?

2263

I would really appreciate if you can find it, I have two of them. I will add it to the ESPHome repository if it works.

2264

I was under the impression that anything that is Tuya based ie that works in the Tuya home app meant it was using an ESP, is that not correct? leyton01 also says he got it working in ESPHome.

Edit. Just realised that leyton01 was replying to autumnleaf about the deta switch, not to me. Sorry about that.

2265

I finally got it to work, the template seems ok, all I needed to do is to click on the Activate checkbox which does the deploying and activate it…

Thanks for your help.

2266

Turns out the BrilliantSmart 21016/09 Intelliscanner Wifi Outdoor PIR Sensor also has a WR3 chip.

2267

I’m hoping the Shelly 3EM gets certified at some point. (Saw some comments somewhere that suggested a number of other Shelly devices should be getting certified this year …)
If it doesn’t, I think IOTAWatt is the go for me too.

2268

That may have been me on Whirlpool.

Info came from this video:

2269

Hi @autumnleaf I’ve got several of the Deta inline switch modules running on esphome, this is the code I used.

substitutions:
  devicename: deta_inline_39f8
  name: Deta Inline 39F8
  hotspot: Deta Inline 39F8 WiFi
  password: XXXXXXXX

esphome:
  name: $devicename
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp8285

wifi:
  ssid: !secret ssid
  password: !secret psk

  ap:
    ssid: $hotspot
    password: $password

captive_portal:

web_server:
  port: 80

logger:

api:
  password: !secret api_pwd

ota:
  password: !secret api_pwd

text_sensor:
  - platform: wifi_info
    ip_address:
      name: $name IP Address

binary_sensor:
  - platform: status
    name: $name Status

  - platform: gpio
    pin: GPIO1
    name: $name Button
    on_press:
      - switch.toggle: relay

switch:
- platform: gpio
  name: $name
  pin: GPIO14
  restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
  id: relay

  on_turn_on:
    - switch.turn_on: led

  on_turn_off:
    - switch.turn_off: led

- platform: gpio
  name: $name LED
  id: led
  pin: GPIO13
  inverted: True
1 Like
2270

Thanks Brad,

I flashed the Deta inline switch with Tasmota, have yet to try Esphome. I think your code will definitely help.

What bugs me right now is that the LED is on when the switch is Power off and Off when the Power is On with Tasmota. I can’t find what settings to use to reverse that. Went through the whole list of SetOptions and LedState command doesn’t have one that will allow us to reverse the Led light I think.

Neverthless, your ESPHome code is definitely helpful and I might try going with ESPHome rather than Tasmota for the Deta inline switch.

Once again, thank you for that.