I do need a couple more but they’ll be going somewhere, where it’s really hard to get a neutral wire to. What’s the latest you guys would recommend that doesn’t need a neutral and that would also match kinda match the Deta light switches?
iPhone. I had a look at what alternatives there are but I don’t really know enough about networking to know what’s suitable or necessarily how to interpret what they are telling me.
Wifiman from Ubiquiti is pretty good - even gives you a heat-map of wifi strength, which should be relatively easy to understand.
i have a broken lock on my security screen door, and im thinking about replacing it with a smart door lock preferably zigbee based and doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!
I’m picturing the 2PM controlling power being sent to one/both of the capacitors (orange/purple), and the two wires coming out of the rotary dial going into the 2PM’s switch inputs to maintain the ability to control the speed from the dial on the wall.
I allso came across Shelly’s RC Snubber (RC Snubber - All Product - Products - Shelly) which I’m guessing might be necessary, but I’m stretching my electrical engineering knowledge as it is so I’m open to ideas.
i have a battery powered reolink camera (with solar panel) argus model.
i’m thinking about getting mains powered one, i dont want PoE because it’s too much hassle for now.
do you have recommendations of which one i can get from ebay or amazon? with onvif support and spot light, and runs wirelessly, also doesnt cost an arm and a leg
Thanks!
I’m ok with needing a remote enable button push, you load the machine, turn it on, set the program, and hit remote enable. Shame it sounds like the “smarts” are flakey.
I’m running an airtouch4, and for me its been rock solid. Very happy with it.
I believe “smart” is mostly a marketing trick by manufacturers. I just came across an Espresso machine with Alexa built in, selling the idea of “ordering a coffee like you do in the cafe”. Sounds wonderful … until you forget to put a cup under the spout. In practice if you have to physically put a cup under the spout, or load the clothes into the washer or dryer … is it really such a big deal to press the buttons yourself ?
My washing machine takes 2:35 (or 4:55 on eco mode), so I load it at night and use the delay start, timing it to finish around 7am ready to hang on the line in sunshine (mornings here are usually sunny, with cloud rolling in during the day). Can’t see much point to having a remote control on my phone.
Of course we’re all different, with different circumstances, so some others probably find the smarts fit their lifestyle perfectly
A big deal? Not at all. Disappointingly limiting… Extremely.
As I said, there is the use case of loading the dryer but forgetting to start it. Or knowing it won’t dry completely so it will need a second program.
But primarily I wanted the ability to pause and resume based on my solar production. This function is actually possible, but the app and API is so flakey it barely ever responds. I would have been better off with a dumb dryer and a smart switch. I already have it plugged into a smart gpo for energy monitoring.
It also means I have to enable remote control every time I put on a a load so that is a PITA.
YES ! That feature which would definitely justify the extra expense … but irrelevant for me because i’m renting.
I remember wondering WTH this “delay start” button on a dishwasher was for … until my mind made the connection with the lower night electricity price
I have become wary of buying appliances (like a panel heater) with electronic controls, because you can no longer just turn them off and on by a smart power switch. After turning the power on, you now need to press the appliance’s Power button before it will start … not really practical for taking the chill off the bedroom at 5am before waking up at 6. I’m still living and learning
Is it the app or wi-fi connection that is the problem ? In my current flat the shared laundry is downstairs, but all 6 units have their own power. So I thought I would like to monitor power usage from washer, dryer but mostly of the chest freezer (in case we accidentally don’t close the lid fully). I’m in the unit directly above the laundry … but the wi-fi signal was weak causing the power switches to drop off. Fortunately I already have a couple of Ethernet-over-power units including one with built-in WAP. Overkill, but it works
interesting, I have LG thinQ fridge, and TVs. @markpurcell can you share how you can do that? I looked into the integration for LG but can only see TV, etc
I’ve got a Kogan (tuya) panel heater in the kids room. It’s works well for remote control functions. We just leave it on at the wall and use HA to control everything. But if I put a smart switch on it also you could in theory automate power on the switch to turn on the heater too if a one button solution is the goal.
My server rack is in the laundry with an access point so it has full signal strength. I’d run an ethernet cable if it was an option, but genuinely couldn’t be more than 6 inches seperating the top of the dryer and the access point.
Has anyone heard of any luck converting the Arlec Grid Connect PC191HA power plugs to ESPhome ? I really like their size; but find they are dropping off my WLAN, and ASUS support are decidedly unhelpful.
Blackadder says that Tasmota requires the chip o be replaced - a no-go with my soldering skill - and ESPhome only lists the older PC189 model … so unless you guys have heard anything through other channels, looks like I will be buying Athom ESPHome plugs in future.