Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

It should be compatible according to this:

Reading that it says that because itā€™s a ā€œgreenpowerā€ device it has to be in range of a Philips hue device to translate its messagesā€¦

Something I donā€™t have on my network.

Does that mean that even though itā€™s a router it can only connect to the rest of the network by a Philips hue device? Kinda defeats the purpose of it being a router?
(which is why I got them)

Iā€™m confusedā€¦

Late to the party on this one here, but a search didnā€™t find any certificate for these in Aus.

It would seem so.

Hi Mitch,
I am the newest to this thread and new to HA as well. However involved with industrial automations in oil/ gas plant for the last 26 years, worked in Gas, steam turbines, compressors and all rotating and other equipments which got heaps of automations, just an introductionšŸ˜‰.

For your 2nd story, plan well mate for the followings

  1. What should your main board should have, any GPO in there.
  2. make it all your smart relay switches at one place if possible.( I atched youtube video 30 relays in one box)
  3. If you think of making your theater room in the 2nd floor, one relay to switch on your projector, your sub woofers, and your AV system. So, all curtain/blinds drop down + surround system+ projector+ theater seating, Projector screen LEDs. This is what I am working on now.
  4. But another switch just to start projector only, some times we watch youtube or cricket without Surround sound.
  5. Always effective utilisation of Solar through couple of automation. I just measure the water we are wasting until the hot water comes through shower. Almost 2-3 liters depends on how far your heater/burner there. So, 5 people 10 liters/day approx 200 lit/ month waste.
    So, my suggestion is plan for that, If you got a bathroom in your 2nd floor install electrical water heater in thereif you like it, it is upto you. 10-15 lit capacity electrical one, sothat there is no lengthy water pipes to get cool quickly, not wasting water.
  6. Make that electric water heater on through automation (with by pass) when your solar is above your rated water heater, easy.
  7. Install a temp sensor and connect automation, if your available solar power is above your rated capacity of your aircon and make it auto cooling. (partial loading just to cool the room where the sensor is placed, you know what I mean)
  8. Make above automation on any time easy by pass mode as well.

Probably you done already these all, anyway just my suggestion.

No worries mate. Thanks for hunting the google for me, appreciated.
Let me know when you are available, I need to fix couple of GPOs, one to install the CT clamps current sensor near main board. Another one is in my theater room ceiling for projector. If got time , coiuple of lamps as well.

Thanks vel007 for all the great ideas. Really appreciate you taking the time to write these down and it gives me a lot of ideas for more automations. Some Iā€™ve already implemented in my existing setup, specifically better utilising my solar!

I was also wondering if people had recommendations on the tech to install

For anyone of interest, I managed to get the Arlec grid connect panel heaters to work with HA - its tuya rebranded so can use tuya local once you have done the set up to obtain the device ID and local key.

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/arlec-2200w-white-grid-connect-smart-convection-panel-heater_p0163657?store=9476&gclid=CjwKCAjw5pShBhB_EiwAvmnNV0TNQ4qimT1_wWjI4KldlPgxVR6-SUBUQo0BQedIh5OMXWHxuiJ7XRoCmMMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Hi, im wondering if this relay can be swapped with shelly products?

Thanks

No. Thatā€™s a motor starter / overload relay.

Shelly devices are just switches without overload protection.

Thanks @tom_l
Is there any thing I can use to automate motor starter? This is for my garden reticulation system.

So it has a pump?

i am not entirely sure how itā€™s all put together. but i suspect it controls the bore water pump that sprays water all over the garden.

It would be possible to put a Shelly device or similar on the control side of that contactor, but that will require a sparky to install. Thatā€™s assuming there are contacts to drive the coil and its not just DOL with the push buttons. How do you operate the pump now?

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Iā€™d make sure you use a 16w or 30w rated smart switch for that.
I know the pump draws less than 10w when running, but things with large motors draw a lot at start up and can cause the relay to arc and weld itself shut (something you donā€™t want on a pump haha)

The 16w / 30w smart devices have a better quality relay and will last a lot longer.

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Does anyone know of a 4 (or more) gang zigbee powerboard that works with Zigbee2MQTT?

I want something for my home entertainment setup.

Something like this :

Well actually, some Shelly devices have software based overload protection, e.g. the new generation ā€œplusā€ 2.5. You can set a power limit, or current limit. They also have voltage limit, not quite sure what the point of that is, but in any case the switch is turned off if the power or current limit is exceeded.


hereā€™s the page where you program the limits.

Iā€™m not suggesting this is the solution for this pump, just pointing out a protection feature in the new generation shellys.

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Correction - the older generation Shelly 2.5 have this feature too, but only for power (not current).

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Looks like a 3 phase pump (Red Yellow Blue - Must be pretty old wiring as they use white as a phase now) - so a standard Shelly would work in the control circuit as it would be only controlling the coil on the contactor. Which I reckon the sparky would recommend replacing anyway, along with the gland entry to those supply wires.

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Iā€™d make sure itā€™s rated a whole lot more than that. The trip point is set to 5.5A on the original protection device, which at 240V is 1320W.