Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

OK, thanks for the info, the part is a pretty standard NPN transistor so that won;t be hard to find, but I will check the fuse as well. To destroy the transistor it would take quite a bit of current so the thing probably has other issues as well.

I would recommend quinled as well. I have one of his dig quad boards running my sauna, cold plunge lights and it works great. Opaquer - also he has recommendations on purchasing of led strips after his years of trialliing his knowledge is valuable. You will soon learn that buying strips in 5m lengths and then cutting to the sizeyou want is easiest - it also leaves you with a drawer full of led strip bits for fun projects.

Quinled also has great calculators and howtos.

Iā€™ve had my eye on that, I bought a bunch of the Kogan floodlights when they were on sale for $10. The hardware quality is excellent but by God Tuya is shocking. At this stage it doesnā€™t look like the floodlights are on the list of supported devices so I might have to do an experimentation.

I have some other Tuya stuff I bought on sale that will probably never work sadly (pet feeders and similar).

Itā€™s just a shame the Tuya people didnā€™t come through on their commitment for local control through HA.

Just purchased a front loading washing machine from Aldi, Stirling/Akai model with wifi. Have the app running with Tuya Smart. How do I get this integrated into HA? I have tried adding through Tuya app using my Tuya client id and password but it does not add. Any assistance appreciated. Thanks.

I have a bunch of these I bough on ebay ages ago. I havenā€™t had any failures yet. Not sure if they are still available though

I have a couple of these as well. Only thing I have found is I need to make sure they donā€™t route any of my xiaomi sensors as they keep dropping them offlineā€¦ Otherwise I agree they seem to work well.

Thanks. I see none of these anywhere though.

I tried those and apparently they have some sort of voltage protection built in. In my case they switch off if the voltage goes above ~250V, and I couldnā€™t find any way to change this threshold or turn this functionality off alltogether.

Ummā€¦ your voltage shouldnā€™t be going that high. The max allowed on the grid is 253V but Iā€™ve never seen it anywhere near that high. Iā€™m guessing you have a lot of solar generation in the area / on your house which is generally the cause of high grid voltage.

Basically the device is helping to protect your equipment from being fried.

Yes, lots of solar in the neighbourhood and on my own roof.
This is what a typical day looks like for an (uncalibrated) Aeotec Z-Wave plug:

Ooof. :hot_face::sunny:

You need to bring that to the attention of your energy provider. It is exceeding the standard.

Jesus thatā€™s high. +1 on getting the voltage checked with a calibrated instrument.

Youā€™ve never been to regional Australia? Heck weā€™ve had 260 V here. This is a chart of our voltage samples since November 2021:

No, itā€™s not. 253 V is just the upper range limit for normal supply. Exceeding 253 V per se does not mean voltage exceeds standards.

Along with voltage levels are durations those voltages persist for.

Voltage needs to exceed 258 V for at least 10-minutes on average to exceed the supply standard.

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Iā€™m now buying them with the expectation that they are disposable items. Which is pretty dismissal.

Keen to hear how these go in the long run.

Not to derail the thread, but voltages swinging that hard look like undersized consumer mains combined with a large solar array. Rural or not, I would not be happy 3 phase voltages swinging like that. (Looks like your white phase is unbalanced also.)

I believe the set points for a grid tie inverter to cut out are 255V for 10 minutes or 260 for any amount of time. Grid supply should be no more than 253V (type 2 MOV surge devices kick at ~255V) and AS477.2 was changed in 2016 making the output voltage on solar inverters set to 255V max. If your mains supply is already high, your inverter cant go above 255V to feed back into the grid.

Would be willing to bet there are multiple solar installations downstream of your transformer with inverters made prior to 2016 that are fighting to feed into the grid at the same time.

I have 25mm2 mains connection.

Voltage variance is just a fact of life when you are at the end of a rural power line.

Believe all you like but the Australian standard for inverters, which were harmonised across the NEM (defined as Australia Region A) on 18 December 2021 are for inverters to power down when 258 V is exceeded on average for 10 minutes. They can certainly be programmed to power down at lower voltages (older standard in some areas) but the standards is 258 V.

No need to discuss it here - I have a long running thread on it elsewhere and have taken may steps to mitigate.

I was just pointing out that higher voltages may well be less common in built up areas but the further out you go the more variability exists. Itā€™s just the way it is.

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Just wondering if anyone here has got the Brilliant Smart Wifi Dimmer Mech to play nice with the Local Tuya Integration. I have no trouble assigning the data points in the integration, lights turn on and off however once dimmed they they will not brighten unless you use the physical switch or the official app like Tuya Smart or Brilliant Smart. Thanks.

Might be a bit late however Iā€™ve finally took the plunge, cracked one of these Cygnett Smart Plug open and connected a TTL adapter to it.

Iā€™ve had a suspicion that itā€™s ESP-based as the Wi-Fi chip manufacturer shows ā€œEspressifā€ on the UniFi controller.

The two Iā€™ve had had the same markings as yours, Iā€™ve used these instructions to wire up TX/RX and 3.3v and ground to the edge connector.

Turns out these are ESP32-S0WD modules with 4MB flash, Iā€™m presuming with the need to have run the HomeKit code theyā€™ve needed the extra power of an ESP32 + 4MB flash.

I was able to flash the Tasmota32Solo build and got it working, power monitoring worksā€¦ kinda, was only able to get voltage and power (W) reading from the HLW8012 chip, have a feeling that the SEL pin is missing circuitry.

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Iā€™ve not seen those for sale for some time (not that Iā€™ve specifically looked for them, but I have been looking for ZigBee powerpoints generally several times over the past few months). ZigBee powerpoints is one area where it would be nice to have more choice.