Yes, but as per the subject of this thread…Shelly is not certified for Aus
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Yes i got that part of the thread already.
Right you can bite my head off.
At what point do you think the device is still Australian Certified after a licensed or unlicensed. qualified or unqualified person modify’s it, either hardware or software from the OEM’s original design that was used to obtain the certification.
No point
It’s no longer is Certified.
If it’s a melted blob of plastic no one will know what firmware it was running before it died 
and no one will care either
Has anyone tried aqara Smart Lock for typical security door in Oz? Wondering which size matches. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888176191.html?channel=twinner
I’m not sure. No doubt a hardware modification would mean it is no longer certified. However, if a firmware modification meant it was no longer certified, how would manufacturers be able to issue firmware updates without re-certifying the device?
apologies George, I was a bit short there - no offence intended.
I would guess that certification is largely hardware based. @danielperez505 do you know? I believe switches like the Sonoff must comply with AS/NZS 60669.2.1 which as far as I can tell doesn’t include software. Just things like insulation, materials (PCB and enclosure), fusing, mechanical strength, EMI/EMC, temperature rise, current carrying capacity, terminal spacing, labelling of input/output voltage, hardware based automatic protective devices like over current, over temperature, short circuit, low voltage detection etc etc.
The certification probably is based on an assumption of a complete software failure (i.e. a non-recoverable glitch like the processor enters an infinite loop with no watchdog timer to reset it). Will it catch fire or will the hardware based automatic protective devices kick in?
I don’t know how far house insurance companies investigate fires, but feasibly, if your house burns down and an investigation was done and it was found to be caused by a non AU-certified device, worst case, your claim may be denied. Assuming you have a number of devices, maybe one or two survive the fire so they’re not all “melted blobs of plastic”.
Conversely if you have an AU-certified devices in the house, as others have mentioned, the fact that it may be flashed with non-standard firmware won’t be detected or known by the insurer. If the certification is independent of software, then a flashed device may actually still be compliant with the standard.
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I hear what your saying.
Living in Australia is full of grey areas.
The wording on insurance policies are so ambiguous that even just installing an additionally device on an electrical circuit can be or could be used to deny a claim.
i mean you cant even change the worn out plug on your kettle without breaking the law.
I guess you all feel safe with a little sticker on the back.
I feel safe buying from a manufacturer that designs and builds their own products and just sells that and nothing else, sonoff, shelly.
I mean really what does a retailer like Kogan or kmart, know, nothing they know how to source, import, market and sell. And all they care about is the bottom dollar.
Anyway enough said about it.
Let move on to solving real issues we can fix.
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That’s an important point. It’s the importer that has to ensure compliance. Big importers like Kogan or K-mart do have outsourcing arrangements to ensure they comply with the relevant legislative requirements. They’ve been in the game long enough to know the cost of penalties or a recall.
Yes maybe but it a numbers game to them, to a manufacturer its their reputation thats at stake.
Not forgetting that if it comes to litigation, you’ll have to “discover” (ie reveal to the insurer) the firmware 
It was off the shelf, I never modified it 
For the brilliant dimmer is the min/max value used to adjust power output?
So does the min 10 and max 255 still translate to 0-100 (10-255) in HA.
How would you adjust min/max load between different loads? eg 10w load and 100w load.
I am testing this device out after using the shelly dimmer which does not handle the off peak frequency signal so well.
The min and max are the dimmer values. 0 being lowest dimmer value and 255 being the highest. I dont have any details on what wattage they equate to. I don’t think its stated in the manual either. It just says the switch supports adjustment the minimums to avoid any flickering of the light.
thanks, will do some testing and report back.
It is interesting that the standard app doesn’t specify a max. So i guess maybe the non-configured 0-100 slider will be from the min 3w to max 350w spec
So this thread seems to mainly be about wifi devices it seams, but we can use zigbee here as well
I have just got a Nue/3A RGBW downlight working with zigbee2mqtt, which is certified for Aus
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They have also listed Zigbee devices here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1uT6e_bt2QLYNXS1nUkWo14YRZPI1NBn0o47dqpOlnSc/edit
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Thanks
I have submitted some edits to the file
Did you use tuya convert for this?
I am struggling to get mine into/stay in pairing mode. (press button 9 time fast?)
Light is blinking at maybe 1/sec.
After running the flash process the dimmer cycles through the light a few times but seems to leave pairing mode?