You can apply this in the Tasmota console to have HA auto-discover the switch. That will import all it’s info.
SetOption19 1
You can also force the update frequency by using this command in the console. This will make the switch report every 30 seconds, change the value to suit your use.
TelePeriod 30
Thanks, I had done the SetOption19 1 already, and the sensors were discovered but never updated.
The TelePeriod settings seems to have fixed it (after a short testing period).
I had created a workaround, as the device was broadcasting another MQTT topic which I manually parsed through home-assistant. This gave me close enough real time information on the power usage. I’ll keep an eye on it.
Now I just have to use the information to write an automation to estimate the state of an IR fan based on power draw 
I opened an issue with @ssieb and he fixed the error in the code. Success! If anyone else wants to put ESPHome on Brilliantsmart Trilogy CWWW downlight, here’s the yaml I used. The custom component “cwww2” is available from here.
The brightness and colour temp sliders are working perfectly in Hassio front end now.
# ESPHome program for https://www.brilliantsmart.com.au/smart-products/lighting/smart-trilogy/
# Requires custom component from https://github.com/ssieb/custom_components/tree/master/cwww2
# Download or clone the "cwww2" folder to your PC
# In Hassio, install the Samba addon
# Then using samba from your PC, create directory "/config/esphome/custom_components/" and copy the "cwww2" folder there
# Compile and upload this code to the Brilliantsmart downlight
# Go to Hassio front end, Configuration, Integrations and "configure" the ESPHome. Add the new device called "Brilliantsmart CWWW2 Downlight"
esphome:
name: brilliantsmart_cwww_downlight
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
wifi:
ssid: "SSID"
password: "wifi_password"
manual_ip:
# Set this to the IP of the ESP
static_ip: 192.168.0.19
# Set this to the IP address of the router. Often ends with .1
gateway: 192.168.0.1
# The subnet of the network. 255.255.255.0 works for most home networks.
subnet: 255.255.255.0
logger:
api:
ota:
output:
- platform: esp8266_pwm
id: output1
pin: GPIO5
- platform: esp8266_pwm
id: output2
pin: GPIO13
light:
- platform: cwww2
id: mylight
name: "Brilliantsmart CWWW2 Downlight"
color_temperature: output2
brightness: output1
cold_white_color_temperature: 6500 K
warm_white_color_temperature: 2700 K
Are there any guides on calibrating smart switches? I’m reading through the calibration documentation and trying to make sense of it.
I was going to use my steam iron as a load device (according to the iron manual it says 220-240V a.c. 2010-2400W and 220-240 V a.c. 2185-2600W).
For basic calibration is a the power recorder needed?? (I was hoping not to shell out more cash haha).
I got myself one of THESE from Bunnings.
I run my wife’s hair dryer on medium heat and fan plugged into the Arlec power meter, get the Wattage, Current and Amps written down, then plug the hair dryer into the smart plug and run on the same settings (medium heat and fan) and set all the info I obtained from the Arlec power meter.
Seems to work well for me, and when I compare to a Belkin Wemo plug, the results are very similar, if not identical most of the time.
One off cost of $20 and takes 5 mins to do, pretty easy.
Some LEDs don’t work very well with Leading edge dimmers, it’s a bit trial and error working out which is which unless the light specificly says ok with trailing edge dimming, I can say that the basic Atom lighting leds work because I’ve been playing round with a single atom led down light and if work fine, but I’m very sure there will be others too.
I successfully flashed ESPHome on one of these today (2-gang glass wall switch) using the Tuya Dimmer component.
It seems the Tuya Dimmer component is only set up for dimmers and optional switches, but not switches only as the “dimmer_datapoint” is mandatory. Using hassio front end I can control both switches ok, but the control has a dimmer slider underneath which is not required. I’m guessing I’ll have to file an issue on the ESPHome github to request that dimmer is optional.
For those of us without neutral wires, is it possible to run a smart switch by using the switch wire as the neutral effectively giving the light constant power and not actually switching the light via the switch e.g existing smart light.
Not unless the smart switch is specifically designed to be wired like that.
Most are not.
I though that neutral out on the switch would still complete the circuit to the light like basically making the switched live effectively always live
Ah I think I see my misunderstanding now. I though the light would still be able to draw power through the neutral out but I’ve just seen someone’s similar setup but they run a live in and back out to the light rather than the neutral. So the light would still need to be powered with its own live wiring, which could still be cheaper for an electrician to do than running a neutral, I’ll have to keep looking
You may be confused. A light needs a live and a neutral to work. Current flows from live to neutral when there is a circuit.
I do have plans to add other Tuya components, but haven’t got around to it yet.
Looking in to getting some of the Deta wall switches. Looks like these don’t support dimming, is that correct?
I also have a few rooms with two way switches, does anyone know if these work in a 2 way configuration?
If you don’t mind can I have some further clarification on this one?
I picked up an Arlec power meter as suggested and have tested it with the Mrs hair dryer.
These are my values.
Watts: 144
Voltage: 242
Amps: 0.61
Within tasmota console I enter:
PowerSet 144
VoltageSet 242
CurrentSet 595 (calculated by watts/voltage x 1000)
The calibration instructions say I should be getting a Power Factor close to 1 but i am getting a power factor of 0.01.
Not sure what I am getting wrong
Hey guys
I’ve successfully flashed Arlec plugs with ESPHome firmware. One plug on its own works fine, but the others dont, unless I plug ONLY that plug in. Its like HA isnt able to tell the difference between them when they’re plugged in. Do I need to give them different names when flashing them? I used the same flash file for all.
Try CurrentSet 6100.
Im not at my PC, so can’t check it exactly, so going by memory.
