I have a centys d5 evo gate opener and I’m trying to remotely open/close and also get open/close status back to my home automation system.
Manual location here
In the manual it appears as if the trigger input and status output on the controllers can be used to do this. See attached screenshots.
The status output looks like it pulses with a 4.8v output depending on gate status. I can write some code to interpret the pulses no problem.
I’m trying to use a Shelly 1 switch for this since I know they’re reliable. Do I use the dry contact on the Shelly for the trigger input to the controller?
And for the status, would I need to use a 5v interposing relay between the Shelly and controller? It looks like the SW input on the Shelly needs min 12v to detect but the controller only outputs 4.8v so not sure if it will detect.
Yes a Dry contact mode is used with relays to allow pulse setups, Wet is used for power sockets.
You would not need scratch code. The shelly is just acting as a trigger for the garage door/gate opener to start, stop and reverse the motor to open and close it via the trigger line.
and with gates folks set it to sleep after 0.5s to act as a push button action event.
You need -12v to trigger shelly SW, so either use optocoupler or transistor circuit or simply buy separate shelly blu door&window, it’s pairing with shelly plus
Thanks for the replies. I’ll try the optocoupler. Just looking at the 4N25 datasheet:
The collector emitter breakdown voltage is 70v. Does this mean the optocoupler can handle up to 70v across its output ? And I assume 5v is no issue on its input since it’s just an LED
I was able to control this gate motor using nothing more than a Shelly Uni — no need for relays or an optocoupler. It has two potential-free outputs, perfect for TRG and PED, and the analog input (which can handle up to 30V) works great for reading STATUS.
Nice job.
May I suggest to specify always when referred to Shelly Uni that it’s NOT Plus model. The circuit and wiring scheme for these two are different and using the wrong one can cause failure.
Ah, I wasn’t even aware of the plus model. Aside from being a newer chip with different pinout/gpio/wire colours, are there any significant regressions with the newer model?
Mainly that Plus can be powered from 5V supply. On the other hand max voltage ratings are lower. And of course everything that is generally different between 1st and 2nd gen devices.
Posting here because I genuinely can’t figure this out. I have a newly install Centsys V series swing gate
My control board is different to what I’ve seen online with others. I’m trying to add a sonoff relay like I’ve had on an old house in a garage but can’t figure out which input triggers open.
So far shorting COM and 06 does nothing. Shorting COM and I1 makes the left gate (closest to motor) partially open then stop
Your testing is what I would go with Comm and L1 for one gate and L2 for the next. You will just need to play with activation timings to get it fully working.
Figured it out
For anyone coming here later who has a V series Swing gate
The circuit is between the second COM and I1. The timing didn’t seem to matter, a short touch and it opened, a short touch and it closed. I’ll probably set a relay to 0.5s anyways. Will report back once I set something up to close the loop, so to speak.
Well to report back
I fried the circuit board (on the Sonoff, not the gate thank god!)
Back to the drawing board. The Sonoff SV did complete the circuit on COM and I1 to open the gate but it wouldn’t connect to the internet (no idea why, I can see the AP from the front driveway in a bedroom. Anyways I was trying to connect it to the network inside and obviously connected way too high a voltage…oops
