@kson so I’ve measured my widest roller blind 200cm and it’s Vref is set to 0,56
Hey, that’s an outstanding project!
Is anybody of you, who already made it, interested in making one for me ( Europe based)? paid gig of course
I’ve gotten a few iterations further since last update, if you can wait until I recieve the new PCBs I’ll see what I can do with sending one your way…
Sounds great! Let’s chat in DMs about details
@realiam Thank you for this, looks quite good, appreciate you sharing it!
Maybe it wasn’t ready but I did order the PCB from the files on github, which I’m now realizing doesn’t look like the one in this thread. Think I can make sense of most of it but I’m not sure how to connect the ams1117-3.3.
In the one in github the Gnd and Out pins are swapped and the output goes to 5V instead of 3.3? Did you swap the part for something else? Or am I just looking at it wrong?
The one currently in my github is the one I’m currently running so you should be golden (been like 6 months now, and i have hade just one ams1117 fail on me out of 17 roller blinds) no other issues.
welp, apart from some bugs in my scripts, but they have hopefully all been killed.
The changes made are mostly cosmetic so you are not missing anything.
The new board will be simplified a bit, soldering wise, and I’ve removed some unusable breakouts of pins that were not “needed”.
I also designed it into a “breakable” board so that you actually get three boards for the price of one.
(JLCPCB allows up to 100x100 mm with no added cost).
For me that comes down to 15 boards (3x5) for just $6 incl. shipping to Sweden.
I Added a string instead of a button to press in order to operate it as an alternative method to operate it.
This works like a charm and turned out better than I could have hoped for, it gives a nice “feel”, kinda like a pull cord switch. but you can use either, or none, if you like to automate it fully.
I haven’t had the time yet to update everything, but will also update the 3D-prints on thingiverse.
added a case that fits the PCB you’ve ordered in either Horizontal or vertical and attaches to the same “clip” as the motor.
I guess none of this makes any sense until you see it
Hopefully I can get some time to update it all soon.
Cheers!
Hehe, sounds good!
Though then I’m a bit confused on where to connect the ams1117.
Thought it would be top left. Or possibly top right. But neither match the pinout I have.
Looking at: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/R34LiAM/HA-Roller/main/pcb/pcbtop.png
With the ams1177 having pins in order of Gnd-Vout-Vin
top right means Vin is connected to A0, which doesn’t make sense to me.
And both alternatives on top left would connect Vout to Gnd.
Or maybe I’m just confused…
Oh ****!
My bad, did not know I had already uploaded a never version, that PCB is designed for this:
(https://www.amazon.se/gp/product/B0859ZMXP4/) and that should be soldered to use 5V which allows you to use power supplys above 7-8v as is the “max” for ams1117.
Sorry for the Swedish Amazon link, here is what I belive is a good alternative, availiable on Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-DROK-Converter-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B0758ZTS61)
I’m so sorry if you have already ordered the AMS.
You have two options:
- use the AMS but connect it with wires instead of pinheaders
- Buy the one above and use pinheaders and omit the “Enable” pin. hopefully it all shows on the photo
Everything else is the same
I’ll add a quick photo of how it should look, until I get time for a more thorough rewrite…!
Fantastic, thank you
Svenska amazon går utmärkt
Any reason not to use the included control board from this package?
Also, I don’t have any AMS1117, but about 10 LM1117T. Would that do? They also step down to 3,3V.
Lastly, I’m having some difficulties reading the wiring diagram, but maybe that clears up as I get all the parts?
Im not sure if im being slow here. But your diagram says you connect 3.3V to the 5V pin on the D1 mini? Is that correct?
Edit. Well it seems like I read it right Got confused when I didnt get it to work, but it was probably a faulty PSU that cost me some extra debugging
a few months later…
yeah I will, I’ve been occupied in real life so haven’t had time for fun stuff =D
I’ll try to get it up like within a week or so.
Hi @realiam, are you able to share an editable filetype (.step or something?) of the Fridans_insert.stl please? The hole in the middle is too small for my steppers… TIA
Yes, that’s the one.
I made this project using the same parts and 3d printed components, I used a very mildly different circuit, and my own code. The project overall works well. I’m just suffereing from the issue of the motor running really hot, sometimes hot enough to melt/warp the 3d printed parts.
The only 2 modifications I made to the circuit, are my input voltage is 7.2V and goes to a L7805CV voltage regulator to step the 7.2V down to 5V, inplace of the AMS1117, and the motor didn’t function when the Sleep and Reset Pins were connect to the ESP8266, so I tied them together and it now functions. As for the code, if the issue could be related to that, I can upload.
My blind is 120cm for reference. Any help would be massively appriciated as this is a cool project that when it works does exactly what I need.
You’re a genius Reaiiam! I’ve been looking for a solution like this a couple of months now but there is always something messing things up for me. I have been installed the .yaml file on my d1 mini with success. I just need this to work since I have been renovating my apartment for a while now and almost can’t proceed until I’m sure I got this to work. Is it possible for me to get in contact with you if I have some concerns? I’m also a swede and it would be much easier for me to understand projects like this in our native language.
Don’t know if it is possible to stay in contact here, otherwise please mail me at [email protected] ! I won’t stall you for too long.
Riktigt bra jobbat!
Hi @realiam this is a really cool project and exactly what I have been looking for! I have ordered the PCB and have most of components as identified on the board. Are there any updated instructions for the BOM components and information regarding the actual construction? I also see a reference to a pull string to manually operate but nothing details the construction or installation of this device. What am I missing? I am also looking for the latest STL from this picture Automated roller blinds (IKEA Fridans/ESPHome/HA/MQTT/HomeKit/HomeBridge/REST @ 200cm wide) - #21 by realiam
Thanks all!
Matt
Does anyone have the BOM for the project to use with the gerber files? Would rather just get it assembled from JLPCB if i can saw others asking about it on the github but no answers sadly
Also was wondering if anyone had any luck with using TMC2209 steppers to make the system silent, i saw theirs some forks of esphome that support it.