I purchased this as a test before ordering the ones for the rest of the house if it worked.
They are recognized by HA Zigbee2MQTT as:
| Model |
TS0011 |
| Vendor |
TuYa |
| Description |
Smart light switch - 1 gang |
| Exposes |
switch (state), power_on_behavior, backlight_mode, linkquality |
| Picture |
 |
| White-label |
Vrey VR-X712U-0013, TUYATEC GDKES-01TZXD, Lonsonho QS-Zigbee-S05-L, Mercator Ikuü SSW01 |
#Notes
I ran into some odd issues including rapid flickering on a 3 gang version, and lock up on a one gang version. The one gang version works correctly in one location.
Upon reaching to the vendor, they have no indicated that the minimum power for lights to be connected is 15w, which is an issue which was not disclosed in the product page. One of the three lights that was connected to the 3 gang switch that was flickering is probably less than 15w, and the light connected to the one gang that locked up is 12w.
Is there a solution for this? Or perhaps another brand of Zigbee No Neutral light switches that do not have this sort of limitation?
Thanks.
Well, it appears that the switches need a l8ght bulb of at least 15w but the ones that we have installed are 12w. Not sure why this is not clearly indicated in the product page or the manual but sometimes things are what they are.
Any suggestion of a no neutral zigbee llight switch that does not have such limitations.
There’s bypass capacitors you can buy to solve the flickering issue. These are usually included in the box with no neutral switches. Maybe ask the seller to send you one as a gesture of goodwill?
Thanks for this, but the seller is somewhat useless really. There could also be a bit of language barrier issue, but my vote is on useless. The minimum wattage capacity issues was not disclose on the product page nor on the manual, the fact that the larger light had to be on L1 also is nowhere to be found so I am about to give up on the see and look elsewhere, but if I knew exactly what I needed to buy from the hardware store I may get the electrician back in to give it another try.
The one gang of the same model connected to a non-smart light on the balcony has worked perfectly. I assume that light is at least 15w thus the lack of issues.
Thanks.
I’ve searched on Ali using your title and spotted the capacitor in one of the pictures from the listing, though it might be a different seller.
Maybe send him that and he’ll understand what you mean. As a heads up, even if you had to wire in the neutral, you’ll get flickering without that capacitor. I remember junking 5 similar switches because of that a couple of years ago.
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I am a IC engineer, & have been doing a little reverse engineering on “No Neutral” smart switches (for fun). There are at least two types. Some use a Bi-stable relay, they need a pulse of current to switch on or off. The other type use a Triac.
The circuits to achieve “no neutral” are complex. When the switch is “OFF”, the electronics has to bleed a tiny amount of current through the load, to store energy for the electronics to function. If the off state current is significant, it can make the load, eg a low wattage LED, “glow”. The solution for this is the capacitor across the load.
When the switch is “ON”, to harvest the power for the electronics, is a big challenge. For a Triac output stage, one can delay the turn on from “zero crossing” and take the power to storage. For the Bi-stable relay version, a low voltage, low Rds-on Nmos is in series with the relay contacts, and it is turned “off” for a short period over zero crossing, again, to allow the switch to harvest a little energy.
Adding the capacitor across the load increases the load current allowing the switch to havest enough power to function. Flickering or “latch up” is because the electronics are not getting enough power… It’s a big issue and needs very clever design…
My “target” load is for example a 3W LED! (with or without a capacitor)
