The 8266 won’t be doing everything.
Googling the pcb leads to a whole load of russian sites like Выключатели Girier: без нуля, с Wi-Fi, 433 МГц и Google Home | — Молодежный информационный портал
Suggests its a girier. Search Devices Supported by Tasmota
Connecting it to the PC
Returns this when I press the button:
Is this good or bad?
It seems correct.
Girier 3 Gang Touch Switch (JR-DES01) Configuration for Tasmota (blakadder.com)
The PCB has room for three switches and the case has three L connectors.
Only the LED pins seems to be a bit messed up. There two for LED 1 and none for LED 2, but that is easy to debug.
Anything out through serial is usually a good sign. Try tasomotizer and putting it into programming mode by pulling Gpio0 to ground and see if you can backup the current firmware on the device to your PC. If you can backup then you should be able to upload Tasmota or ESPhome. I suspect the touch pad just acts as a binary sensor at the pins.
I have never used tasmotizer.
How do I make a backup of the bin file? It seems I have to commit to flashing to get a backup? I would feel safer if I could get the backup first.
Or do I missunderstand this. Can’t find the instructions for that part.
Tick tick the save original firmware. Try not selecting any image to download and untick erase before flashing.
It complains that I need to select a binary to flash with.
May need to be brave and flash a full 8266 file not the min. It’ll either work, refuse to upload or brick the chip. What have you got to lose if it no longer works. 
1 Like
Well I think it still works locally.
Yeah… I guess so…
I’ll try with the one in my daughters room first since that switch is not needed.
Lets try with this and see what happens:
esphome:
name: matilda-switch
esp8266:
board: esp01_1m
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
ota:
wifi:
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "Matilda-Switch Fallback Hotspot"
password: "foobar"
captive_portal:
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin: 12
name: "Button"
switch:
- platform: gpio
pin: 4
id: relay_2
- platform: gpio
pin: 14
id: led2
#internal: true
#inverted: true
name: "LED 2"
If you want to take longer then download esptool.py for windows install esptool and use
$ esptool.py read_flash
usage: esptool read_flash [-h] [--no-progress] address size filename
Will take a bit longer. At one time I had all tools to try and flash an ESP chip that turned out had RX and Tx not attached.
Can’t get it to work…
I’ll see what ESP-home flasher says…
Anyone have an idea?
The loose wire is held on to GPIO0 when inserting the USB tool.
Fourth pin from the bottom on the same side as GND?
Could be… But this is an old switch.
I have some memory of that chip as “new”.
These switches was bought “used” about 1.5 - 2 years ago, not sure if the previous owner even used them or just sold them because he didn’t understand them.
Would it talk to ESP-home flasher if it’s not an ESP?
I thought it was a good sign your serial picked up anything on the espflasher, but I suppose it’s based on an earlier serial program and the newer chips probably have been based on same older serial connection. replace newer tuya chip
If it just comes down to time and money buy new but this could be a great learning experience.
In my problem chip I tried even using a dedicated 3v power supply with short leads in case it wasn’t supplying enough voltage to flash. In the end I did replace the chip and it worked until I shorted the main board. Ends in disaster
I’ll probably try a replacement.
I don’t have a hot air gun, but lets see what I can do with just the iron.
Or is that too hard?
I removed mine with alot of flux and desoldering wire. It was not easy. If you damage any of the solder pads underneath then it’s likely game over. It’s all for the experience. Might be easier to cut the attachments off with tin snips. Old chip will be destroyed. Good luck with it. 
Hmm…
Those hot air guns are expensive.
I wont have that much need for one of those to justify the price, what about using a hot air gun meant for removing paint?
Those are cheap, and within range in price. With a nozzle it’s probably doable?
Anyone tried it?
Alternatively, contact your local electronics user group.