Not necessarily integration, but I did get my wife’s new Jura Z10 setup with a float valve to auto fill the tank. I didn’t want to hack up the OG tank lid so I modelled and 3D printed a replacement. It needs some more fine tuning and I’ll be posting it to Printables.
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Hey guys, has anyone successfully integrated the Jura Z10 with this approach?
I know the WiFi dongle has not.
Basically, there’s app level encryption happening that hasn’t been cracked.
Supposedly the BT dongle can be used, but the setup seems pretty convoluted. I have the BT dongle and a spare WiFi dongle and planned to start poking when I get a chance. I’m not programmer so I’d put it at like a 1% chance I’d make any progress on the WiFi side.
Yes a lot of the work that’s been done in this thread is beyond my expertise…
TBH I would happily pay someone a decent amount if they could just post me a flashed dongle or whatever that would integrate with Home Assistant!
I’ve spun up a new thread to document digging into the Z10:
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Just because there’s more traffic here. I was able to use a Shelly to get on/off control of the Z10 in HA. Details are here.
Did you find this Github project? GitHub - COM8/esp32-jura: ESP32 powered Jura coffee maker.
You can find some more commands in the FN range in the documentation.
And the sequences needed to brewing a coffee.
I also have a c5 and maybe this will get it to work for us.
I still have to fix the machine itself so I cannot test yet. But maybe this can already help you?
Check this
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Hello,
I’m exactly in the same situation with my Jura ena 5.
I read all the sensors , can turn it off but impossible to make a coffe,an expresso or hot water…
If you found something just let me know mate!
Is it possible to use esphome Bluetooth for it?
Great work 
thanks for that
Is there also a possibility to get the consumption stats or the maintenance messages for example like: cleaning? that would be perfekt
Maybe someday. I know how to do it, but don’t have time.
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In spring I had the time to spend a lot of time with my Jura S8 because I really want to control the coffee machine in Home Assistant. The first tests were done with an ESP8266 and after I read here that the Wifi dongle is actually an ESP32 I bought one and “slightly” modified it. 
You can see the result here, the reason is that I can flash the dongle via USB in case of problems.
This worked perfectly until the ESPHome 2023.6.5 release. Since release 2023.7 the dongle and also other ESP32 (NodeMCU e.g.) crashes at startup. The details of the problem can be found here on Github. If anyone finds the error in the code, I would be grateful for any tips, my knowledge of C++ is not deep enough.
Well, since the dongle couldn’t be convinced to work, I “built” an ESP8266 dongle which will take over the work of the Wifi dongle for the time being.
However, I have not yet updated the ESP8266 to 2023.11 as a test ESP for 2023.11 also produces errors.
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Hi Martijn,
How exactly did you split the two voltages?
I can see that indeed, there is some low voltage and some high voltage connected to the so called “topswitch”.
But when looking at the fibaro double relay switch, it seems as if both switched have a common:
Could you elaborate some more on your howto, I would hate to blow up my beloved F9 
I used a Shelly 1 Plus and just hooked up the 120V (US) side to the dry contacts. Toggling the contact simulates a button push to turn the coffee maker on.
I have a Z10 and assume the pin out is the same. When you crack it open, you’ll find the top switch is actually pressing two microswitches. One running at 5V DC and one running at mains voltage.
I’ve got an e8 EC. Is adding a switch bot to the power button considered a no go for WAF?
If I understood correctly the wifi nor the Bluetooth dongle will let you turn on the machine whilst in power save mode? At least not the newer models?
(I’ve yet to order one of these dongle things)
Can you provide some more details on the esp 8266 board you made? Why did it have a level shifter? I think I I’ve read in this thread the wemos didn’t need one?
I doubt the switchbot has enough torque to push the button.
It has enough force (not torque, linear movement), that is my current setup but not WAF-proof
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