DETA Grid Connect Smart Switch hardware failure and repair

I have a few DETA 6912HA dual gang smart switches. Over the last week or so, one of them started to get flaky which I was initially putting down to ESPHome update issues. It then totally failed with the buttons not responding and the device not appearing on WiFi.

To cut a long story short, this was caused by a failed capacitor on the power supply board (the one that has all the relays and the 240v->5v regulation. The capacitor is an electrolytic, rated 10v 680uF and manufacturere by FZE. The failure mode was terrible 5v regulation so the daughterboard and the associated ESP controller was basically not booting. Replacement of the capacitor solved the issue.

This switch was barely more than 12 months old.

Hi, I have a Deta 3 gang smart switch only 2 months old and switch stopped working. No power, and blue LEDs don’t light up. Scheduled to come on at 6:20pm but it didn’t. So took it out and opened it up, and now looking at how to fix it. I’m just a novice at electronics but would appreciate any help. You mentioned a capacitor in the power supply board. Can you advise which one in the photo attached. The black capacitors are rated 400v4u7 and has FOAI written on it.

Hi mate, wish I had seen this sooner. Since I have similar it is likely the capacitor(s). They’ve used cheap rubbish caps and in my case mine was bulging.


Supposed to be a 750uF capacitor. Capacitance drop and high ESR.

I would just replace both. They’re not too hard to remove but it does require some soldering skill.

Is there a recommended quality capacitor?
Mine’s not Delta, but the onboard 470uF 16v was damaged. I’ve already had them replaced but I’m not quite sure how long it could last this time

Capacitors should all last the lifetime of the device. Hard to say about yours but most stuff purchased from retailers is of a higher quality.

Blimmin’ heck I just had another one of these die on me. Same issue, dead capacitor but this time the rating was 680uF. It’s the identical light switch model too, so it’s as if they’re just picking random capacitors from their bin of crap.

I just disassembled a third currently working unit. The capacitor was not bulged and had good ESR. However the written rating on the can is 680µF but it reads as 800µF. Wild.

Is better to pick a higher microfarad if you’re already replacing them?

Oddly enough I only have 1000µF capacitors lying around that I’ve used as replacements anyway, so, yeah?