Although not a perfect solution, you can create a schedule, say “All Off” or “Parents Visiting”, with the desired temperatures but don’t assign it to any rooms. When you want to use it just edit the schedule and add the rooms to be controlled. Remember to edit it and put them back to the normal schedule after the event.
I agree it should be much easier to move rooms and the even the whole home between schedules, it’s on our backlog.
The shift thing is exactly what I’ve done! I have a couple of schedules called “nightshift” and added a simple toggle helper to allow me to switch rooms onto or off them. Ditto with switching the guest bedroom to a new schedule when guest mode is turned on. So handy.
It looks like under demands of maybe 40-80% Wiser is requesting a flow temperature somewhere between 38 - 63 degrees.
Which seems pretty reasonable at first glance, because the return flow to the boiler needs to be <55 degrees to keep it in condensing mode, so provided there’s a minimum of 10 degree drop across your radiators you should be condensing the vast majority of the time. Obviously the lower it is, the more efficient.
The constant high-frequency cycling between a higher and lower temperature is… a bit weird though. Surely that’s asking the boiler to modulate up and down rapidly, and it would be better to just pick a flow temperature somewhere in between and stick to it, because that’s roughly what the water will end up at anyway. Odd. Maybe @jamiebennett can help clarify?
Ok, so in my Yorkshire heritage like assessment to not spend money on burning things, further investigation of my data and adding another graph in graphana of the room temps, I have discovered 3 things.
The kitchen demand that seemed to be much longer than other rooms in the morning…it seems this is heating to 21C instead of the 20C the schedule is set at. I have thus far reset the iTRV and checked the valve and will see what happens.
The temperature of my daughters room was rising in the morning, even though (as she is at Uni) the room is not occupied and set to 17C. Discovered the radiator valve was stuck and not closing. Bashed it with a spanner, freed it and now we will see what happens. Clearly an amount of gas was being used to heat this room that I didn’t think was happening.
I wasn’t working from home today (felt like a real job today!) and therefore my office was set not to heat. OMG this has reduced todays gas usage by about 30%. More investigation need here to understand why so much gas is needed to heat this room.
In summary, I think what I am seeing more than anything is the issues with the heating system that are causing waste rather than at this point tweaking schedules/combining rooms etc. Seems to be some low hanging fruit with big potential savings that this data is identifying that will make a considerable difference. Maybe today was a bit warmer than yesterday but my data shows that yesterday most of the demand after the morning warm up was from this room.
If I understand correctly, what’s happening here is your pump is set to provide a constant pressure, and the hot water circuit has considerably less resistance than the heating circuit. So when it opens up, flow through the system suddenly increases, and pressure drops, and the pump reacts by speeding up to try and maintain that constant pressure.
It’s a bit counter-intuitive, but the easier it is for water to flow through the system the lower the pressure will be at a given pump speed. So actually the longer the length of pipe the water has to get through before it returns to the boiler, the higher the pressure will be, and the lower the pump will set it’s speed.
Before I moved house I had a single channel Wiser connected to a Viessmann Vitodens 100-W using OpenTherm, with an Opentherm gateway inbetween them: https://otgw.tclcode.com/, all connected to my openHAB setup.
I don’t think it strictly answers your question, but here’s a chart of the Wiser reported demand vs. the setpoint it was requesting from the boiler. My boiler had a maximum setpoint of 80°C and a minimum of 35°C, and it appeared that the percentage demand directly mapped to the temperature within that range. So 100% = 80°C, 50% = halfway between 80°C and 35°C = ~ 57°C etc. See the graph:
I’d love to use OpenTherm but I’ve read it’s only supported for single channel hubs - is that likely to change in future @jamiebennett? I can see that the API endpoint /data/v2/opentherm/ appears to have some idea of how it’d like to control the flow temperature. Is the issue that it can’t be used with hot water tanks because a typical wiring setup can’t tell when the hot water tank thermostat reports that it’s satisfied?
WiFi Dropouts:
I’m using openHAB rather than Home Assistant, but also experiencing these dropouts. I think they’ve always been present, but I also moved house and switched from a single to three channel Wiser in June, I think the dropouts became more regular around that time, going from what might have been monthly to maybe weekly. The OpenHAB connector only polls the /data/domain endpoint, and my system is set to poll every 60s.
In both my old and new places I use(d) a BT Whole Home Wifi mesh, with a disc placed ~ 1-2m from the Wiser Hub and only air between them. This disc has an ethernet connection to my router so I don’t believe connection stability is a problem from that perspective. There are 4 other mesh devices, all the others have at least a floor or wall between them and the Wiser hub. The mesh devices haven’t had a firmware update since late 2021. The 2.4GHz mesh is fixed to channel 11, 20MHz bandwidth, WPA2.
I’m seeing my Wiser drop off the wifi approximately once a week. I’ve always powercycled it within a few hours, so I’ve not seen it reconnect itself at any point, but will try my best to hold off climbing into the attic next time I notice it. The device is always showing a permanent red light when I notice it. Can I get onto the beta programme if my setup would be of interest? Mac: 04776C.
I’m suffering from the Hub issue too, TP Link Omada EAP245 AP’s here - got one pretty close to where the hub is located and it still drops and doesn’t recover until the wiser hub is power cycled.
I have around 35 clients on my APs and they are solid, so it seems to be something specific to the wiser hub.
I’ve had HA integration enable ever since the hub was fitted, so can’t comment if the drops are also seen in the hubs ‘vanilla’ setup.
Would be lovely to get to the bottom of it though, as my hub / boiler are located in my loft, which means a trip up the ladder whenever the hub dies so that I can power cycle it
We are trialing a new firmware version at the moment which helps recover from WiFi issues much quicker. Hopefully, once verified by several beta testers, we can get this out to everyone. Not too long now.
Is there any way to simply tell the Drayton Wiser hub to turn the heating on/off from Home Assistant? It seems like there’s a toggle for hot water, but nothing for heating.
I have existing temperature sensors and smart TRVs in Home Assistant that I would like to use to control when the heating turns on/off. I don’t want to have to replace everything with Drayton thermostats if at all possible.
I am stuck at getting the key. My hub is bound to a IP Address and not 192.168.8.1 as shown in the instructions. when i put in the URL with my IP Address it comes up with this error {“Error”:“Unauthorized”} in JSON and i can not get the key.
Some help would be appreciated
thank you in advance
P.S. ive tried Invoke-RestMethod -Method Get -UseBasicParsing -Uri http://MY ADDRESS/secret/ in powershell as admin
You need to put the hub in setup mode which creates a wifi access point. Connect your phone to this wifi access point and then go to the 192.168.8.1/secret url on a browser.
Yes, just checked and confirmed. This problem does not show up on browser. Where do you think I should file a bug report. HA frontend of the android companion app?