The whole “no-neutral” claim is very misleading and you could possibly make an argument that it’s flat out wrong when most companies make that claim. When you still have to find and gain access to Neutral and then connect a capacitor between neutral and to the L(hot) that feeds your “no-neutral” smart switch, that seems kind of dishonest to me. You still need the neutral, it’s just used differently.
Yes, I did make some assumptions based on the limited information I can compile from just this thread but, you see a lot of the same patterns and mistakes repeated over and over by certain groups here. I was seeing a lot of clues you’re in the “new user” camp My intentions were to be honest and helpful. Wiring mistakes with 120/240v have real consequences. The best way to stay safe and not blow things up is to be as informed and competent as possible.
What is it you’re trying to make smart or powering? Normal house lights?
so, my sonoff zb-miniL2 is a scam and I’m imagining it’s working without neutral? Should I send you a picture so you point out where the neutral is hiding? I’ll gladly use that insight to change to a different relay!
Which part of “most companies making that claim” was confusing to you. Does “most” mean 100% to you? I specifically said MOST because it isnt all of them. There are a few i know of that dont require a neutral but, “most” still require some form of capacitor between Hot and Neutral, just like the ones that were linked to as “no neutral” and was what i was commenting on. People have busy schedules and things to do least of which is repeating what we already said and explaining simple 4 letter words. Try to keep up and follow along with the conversation and all the letters and words here or else just sit quietly.
Mate just calm down, read the room.
What do you think is inside the switch?
Here is what I read in your post:
- No neutral
- WiFi
- Must fit in wall fixture
That tells me: “smart wall switch”. Since almost all smart wall switches have a relay inside, then your first requirement, “relay”, is moot.
“Must fit in wall fixture”. Do you mean in a wall switch box behind a switch?
WiFi? This defines the vast majority of smart switches, but the curious among us wonder why WiFi only?
What you have NOT told us is what do you want the relay/switch to control? If you tell us what you want to do and not how, you will get more appropriate guidance.
something that makes “cluck”
you know shelly-like wifi relay that doesn’t need neutral and can be bought at a reasonable price or not? it’s simple question.
probably has no other zigbee devices and doesn’t want to have to buy an 80$ coordinator and figure out how to use it all just for one switch when there’s already wifi available and it requires nothing extra. That was my excuse for the longest time, atleast and i suspect it’s a common reason for people.
do have two zigbee hubs and 15ish devices. but want wifi because most of them are esp driven and I want to put esphome on it.
dang it! I wish i knew you were already zigbee capable. This is myself and others keep asking you, what are you planning to control with this smart switch? I’m all for esphome and love it, and understand wanting to flash it to esphome. In some cases, like if this is just a basic ceiling light that is controlled from that switch then you’re not gaining anything by switching a simple switch. The problem here is the no neutral wifi options you have are between bad and worse. You’re limiting your options to bad or worse just for the pleasure of making it a bad or worse esphome smart switch… There are a couple good no neutral zigbee switches you could use instead.
You’re choices arent good here for wifi. They’re much better for zigbee.
I told you already I do have zbminil2 and it’s doing great job. Feels like I’m screaming at the wind.
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I obviously missed that detail. So, you already know of and have some that work but your wanting to replace them with wifi switches that youd like to convert to esphome?
Someone posted 2 links above. Both of those would work but, they do need the capacitor installed between N and L at the light or whatever your powering. This is the stuff i was talking about though, bad and worse. They dont even have a protective case around it and chose to use clear heat shrink right over the pcb. That thin layer is all that seperates it from accidental shorts/fires in the wall or you accidentally getting a nasty shock. Who knows what else they cut corners on to save a few pennies.