Gents,
Having noise issues with cheap RF receivers I decided to buy this superheterodyne module hoping to pair a Sonoff 433Mhz remote. Now I’m scratching my head because I do not know how the pins work.
Any idea?
Saw this thread pop up recently, and it’s using the RX470C-V01 receiver module. Best part is, @swedude provided ESPHome custom code to handle the data reception.
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I realised it was because I had set the memory buffer size too large and it was bigger than it could handle. Once I reduced it to 1000, the crashes have stopped.
I’ve been testing 433 MHz in the workshop for a long time. I am using a receiver marked in the photo, see. with my code the noise is minimal… I STRONGLY RECOMMEND USING ESP32! esp8266 and others have to make noise.
remote_receiver:
- id: rc_receiver
pin:
number: GPIO22
inverted: True
dump: rc_switch
tolerance: 60%
filter: 250us
idle: 4ms
buffer_size: 2kb
I have not had a chance to try this yet as this particular project took the back burner, but this looks like a good solution!
Hey everyone I’m having issues using the transmitter. I got the following from Amazon. The receivers work just fine and I’m able to read my remote signal data but after lot of trial I can’t get the transmitter to work. Any advice will be truly appreciated.
HiLetgo 5 Sets 433M Transmitter +… Amazon.com
How did you do your project? I am trying to do the same but I am totally lost. I am not getting any data from the receiver. Could you help me? Sorry for the inconvenience
Your post will probably only be inconvenient for you as nobody will be able to help you based on the vague and little information you provide. 
As a hint take a little time and read this here from top to bottom 
Then open a new thread with a meaningful title and provide detail information on what you did, how you did it and don’t forget to provide your yaml, logs and schematics 
Good luck 
and welcome to the forum 
Hi !
I want to get and decode some rf signals and send them later via Homeassistant just like described in post #1.
Unfortunately I also have the same problem like you described.
Also ordered superheterodyne receiver / transmitter and I‘m using D1 Mini.
Like you I already tried different filter, idle, tolerance values and pins.
Currently I receive some signals with this code so at least the receiver could be okay.
On the other hand I receive a lot of data if for example „raw“ is commented in without doing anything so I‘m not sure if the receiver is working correct.
Unfortunately the receiver does not receive anything if I press any button on my remotes and I tried several ones.
remote_receiver:
pin:
number: D2
mode: INPUT
inverted: True
dump:
- aeha #Decode and dump AEHA infrared codes.
#- canalsat #Decode and dump CanalSat infrared codes.
#- canalsatld #Decode and dump CanalSatLD infrared codes.
- coolix #Decode and dump Coolix infrared codes.
- dish #Decode and dump Dish infrared codes.
- drayton #Decode and dump Drayton Digistat RF codes.
- jvc #Decode and dump JVC infrared codes.
- lg #Decode and dump LG infrared codes.
- magiquest #Decode and dump MagiQuest wand infrared codes.
- midea #Decode and dump Midea infrared codes.
- nec #Decode and dump NEC infrared codes.
- nexa #Decode and dump Nexa (RF) codes.
- panasonic #Decode and dump Panasonic infrared codes.
- pioneer #Decode and dump Pioneer infrared codes.
#- pronto #Print remote code in Pronto form. Useful for using arbitrary protocols.
#- raw #Print all remote codes in their raw form. Also useful for using arbitrary protocols.
- rc5 #Decode and dump RC5 IR codes.
- rc6 #Decode and dump RC6 IR codes.
- rc_switch #Decode and dump RCSwitch RF codes.
- samsung #Decode and dump Samsung infrared codes.
- samsung36 #Decode and dump Samsung36 infrared codes.
- sony #Decode and dump Sony infrared codes.
- toshiba_ac #Decode and dump Toshiba AC infrared codes.
tolerance: 50
filter: 1us
idle: 1ms
buffer_size: 2kb
Did you get your rf receiver working ?
Or did you tried the referenced esp home code from @swedude ?
Okay got it working with an 433 Mhz garage door opener with following settings.
remote_receiver:
pin:
number: D2
mode: INPUT
inverted: True
dump: #all
- aeha #Decode and dump AEHA infrared codes.
#- canalsat #Decode and dump CanalSat infrared codes.
#- canalsatld #Decode and dump CanalSatLD infrared codes.
- coolix #Decode and dump Coolix infrared codes.
- dish #Decode and dump Dish infrared codes.
- drayton #Decode and dump Drayton Digistat RF codes.
- jvc #Decode and dump JVC infrared codes.
- lg #Decode and dump LG infrared codes.
- magiquest #Decode and dump MagiQuest wand infrared codes.
- midea #Decode and dump Midea infrared codes.
- nec #Decode and dump NEC infrared codes.
- nexa #Decode and dump Nexa (RF) codes.
- panasonic #Decode and dump Panasonic infrared codes.
- pioneer #Decode and dump Pioneer infrared codes.
#- pronto #Print remote code in Pronto form. Useful for using arbitrary protocols.
#- raw #Print all remote codes in their raw form. Also useful for using arbitrary protocols.
- rc5 #Decode and dump RC5 IR codes.
- rc6 #Decode and dump RC6 IR codes.
- rc_switch #Decode and dump RCSwitch RF codes.
- samsung #Decode and dump Samsung infrared codes.
- samsung36 #Decode and dump Samsung36 infrared codes.
- sony #Decode and dump Sony infrared codes.
- toshiba_ac #Decode and dump Toshiba AC infrared codes.
tolerance: 25 #20230830 Garage door opener
filter: 250us
idle: 3ms
buffer_size: 2kb
Now I get something like this in the log window:
[21:42:44][D][remote.rc_switch:261]: Received RCSwitch Raw: protocol=6 data='0010101110111100110000111011111001000110000111101101111111111011'
So my impression is that my other remote controllers are not using 433Mhz, rathermore they all use IR…
But is there any option to capture IR signals, decode them and transmit them later all together with ESP Home ?
Also I have another remote control using 40.685 MHz (Hörmann), would there also be an option ?
Which hardware would I need for IR and 40 MHz ?
I only found a project which could support IR (and other protocols like BLE):
https://github.com/1technophile/OpenMQTTGateway
https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/
Edit: For anybody who is looking for an IR solution with ESP Home I found this guide:
If this is a modern BiSecur system I see no chance to remote control it with anything else but the original Hörmann remotes. They use a bidirectional encrypted communication that you cannot simply intercept and imitate from ESPhome. If you could, then anybody on the street could too and could open your garage door with minimal effort.
But the Hörmann garage door drives have a physical input that is meant to attach an external switch. Here you can add an ESP with a relay or an opto-coupler and control the door with ESPhome.
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Great idea ! Because wifi signal isn‘t strong if Garage door is closed idea would be to send a signal via my rf bridge over 433MHz and receive it with another esp inside the garage.
There a switch would be attached connected to the garage door opener.
For my Hörmann „SupraMaticE“ it is described in manual.
Question: would the esp inside the garage need wifi or would 433MHz receiver be enough ?
Are there any recommendations for potential free relais for usage with esp ?
Be careful with any simple RF control for your garage door. Without a reliable rolling code encryption in that communication you will invite criminals to try and open your door. There are cheap Chinese gadgets on the market that iterate through all possible RF commands in a very short time. They are used while slowly driving through streets to see which garage doors will open. It really happens!
If you use Wifi on ESPhome instead a strong encryption is built in from the start. Better stay with that. It also gives you the possibility to update your ESP over there air.
Don’t use a relay. Use a 2x or 4x opto coupler. It is much cheaper and you don’t need a driver transistor. You can also use it to return the door closed state from your SupraMatic to your ESP.
Have a look at the diagram below where I did something similar with an older ProMatic and a KNX device. The only difference in your case would be that you will need resistors for all (!) your opto LEDs. The LEDs only need between 1 and 10 mA to fully open the photo transistor. So a resistor of about 360 Ohms would be ok. On the back path you need between 2.2k and 22k as shown in the diagram, i.e. 4k would be fine. Make sure you activate the internal pull-up for the corresponding ESP input off that back path GPIO.
Just a post to save anyone else some headaches. With the SRX882 I am using you need to pull the CS pin high. I eventually found that info here RF Transceiver - Tasmota This tutorial I was reading Insight Into How 433MHz RF Tx-Rx Modules Work & Interface with Arduino says that the CS and DATA pins are internally joined 
Never heard of that 
People really have to much time… Don’t they just grab like amazon delivers directly from the front porch nowadays?
But we know that many of this “keyless” systems used in some Toyota, Jeep or other cars are easily relayed and allowing “keyless thefts” even 2023 
Probably a typo. 443MHz is right in the middle of a busy ham radio band. If anyone is using a wireless remote on 443MHz, you will soon meet your neighborhood ham radio operators looking for the illegal interference.
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Yes I get your point but as I mentioned my problem is that Wifi signal isn‘t reliable inside the garage.
So I thought using RF to bring my commands inside the garage would be a good idea…
That‘s an interesting point… but unfortunately I don‘t get the point how I can find out the door closed position with the pins mentioned in the manual of my supramatic e1 ?!
https://www.ruschmetall.at/download/SupraMatic%20E-1.pdf
Pin 20/21 - external Impuls
Pin 14/15 - external Switch Door Open
Pin 14/17 - external Switch Door Close
In your diagram it‘s connected to + - in path D ?
Okay made some homework and measurements on the garage door opener.
My schematic would look like this:
In datasheet of optocoupler LTV-847 a typical Forward Voltage is given with Vf = 1.2V.
I calculated with desired led current of 5mA, so for the resistors my thoughts were these:
(3.3V-1.2V) / 0.005A = 420Ohm
→ choosed 430Ohm based on E24 resistor row.
One connector pin of the garage door changes it’s state like this:
Door not open: 22.3V
Door completely open: 0.6V
With measured voltage at state garage door is OPEN the led calculation is like this:
(22.3V-1.2V) / 0.005A = 4220Ohm
→ choosed 4,3kOhm based on E24 resistor row.
What would you think about the schematic and the resistor calculation ?