As an example : 
Note that the negative spike is due to window opening
i suspect ear = hear
When I see the ins and press it once i hear this happening… and valve works to the end of resistance.
When valve opens/closes from 3% to 0% over time loses calibration! that is simple
I have no adaptors, no issues with the valves (new valves installed, same issue) and the issue happens with specific way!)
Should i recalibrate by removing batteries while on radiator? that would be strange.
I cannot accept that works in the beginning and then losses “calibration” on small openings
You example doesn’t show how many corrections the valve does!
On rooms needing too many corrections.
- can you right your instructions with a bit more clear path. it is confusing! and seems i do this
As an example, here an other valve working at home with small corrections :
Associated valve opening :
So I can say that it works even with small and many corrections…
During the calibration, sometimes, the points 3 and 4 (see my previous post describing calibration process) are skipped by the Spirit. If this is the case, remove and replace batteries with Spirit still attached on the radiator, and relaunch the calibration (this is the only way to force recalibration).
the process you explain, never hapens on my valves
tried 3 old and 2 new.
All follow the procedure:
- plug battery
- PRP shows on screen
- retracts to a point
- INS shows on screen
- Press button
- RETRACTS fully
- stops for 1 sec
- CLOSES fully
- shows 18.00 (set temp)
It does not seem occasional to me
All devices done 7-10 times each, with 1 minute break, while I am trying the next. ALL the same process.
My firmware is 0.16
i was not able to do it! as on my previous topic. BUT
When It goes to PRP position. it does not fully retract. and still small pressure can be on valve.
This not allowing to find the starting (open position).
Remove/re-add batteries until it retracts enough.
Then the full/close position can be found with step 3/4
Lets see if this process stabilises the issue.
Let me know… but from my experience, if the steps 3 and 4 are skipped, the valve will overheat.
Sometimes after 4 days of correct operation…
I am discussing with Eurotronic about this point, but they don’t seem to know that there are two calibration scenarios possible…
What happens is:
if the pin is longer than expected, and tighten it based on the “screw” and not resistance you feel… the scenario is skipped.
if you retract during the prp fully (by putting/removing battery 2-3 times) then you can have the step 3/4
I am trying to contact Eurotronic to show them the issue/explain the problem but no reaction.
Getting support from Eurotronic is very difficult… I have now a contact with a technical person but I had to wait for months and send a lot of (not so friendly) emails to have answers.
The important think is to know that you MUST guarantee that the calibration is done correclty, which, as you can see, is not always the case. You have sometimes to relaunch calibration 5 or 6 times in order to make it work, even if the Spirit always report a correct calibration…
I have more than 10 Spirits, and I have this behavior with all of them. But when they are correclty calibrated, I must say that they work very well (unless you have autumn 2019 Spirit production which is affected by a manufacturing process issue, but in this case, you will get sporadic crash of the Spirit displaying “InS” randomly).
@samuelan2
even after successfully calibrating, 3 days after device is out of calibration, keeping radiator open with valve at 0
Setpoint at 19.5 room at 20.6!
Eurotronic is one of the worst devices I’ve encountered… pity
what type of valve you have? M30, RA RA-V?
I would check your valves. I have had this with several radiators and after lots of troubleshooting, put the original non-smart TRV back on - and what do you know, the valve is just so calcified that it won’t close. Now I just need to work out how to decalcify them when WD-40 and hitting it with a spanner isn’t doing the trick.
I also don’t think the smart TRVs have limiting, so if you are setting valve position manually, I’d suggest capping the range at 5%-95% to avoid sticking.
I have M28 valves and i use metallic m30 adapters.
As @EKC say, check that the valve is moving correctly… I can’t say more than that…
On my side, 7 days of perfect operation with V2 valves… crossing fingers…
But I have replaced all my radiator valves system before putting the spirits… because some of them were hard to close, and some others were stucked in closed position…
I face no issues with the Mechanic valves nor with Danfoss LC-13 or Fibaro.
One of the radiators has brand new m30.
The new version shows less signs but still did it today… overheat the room, keep valve open.
Valves are moving really nicely, i can even close them with my finger.
The issue happens when many SMALL corrections for hours happen, it is like forgeting the closed position.
Graph:
You can see at 2/3 the temperature increases and stays for some time higher than setpoint. Then i recalibrate! you see the sudden increase and start working again! this is… impossible to believe is the valve! when it happens on any radiator at home. And this is with V2, V1 is even more unstable…
Just for information… what is the temperature of your water in the radiators ?
our city heating is 64 degrees © at entrance of home, per the meter of the company in my box.
Also my valves are IMI V-exact II M30.
Old and new, oldest is 3year old, when We put also the underfloor and the new one 2 weeks old.
Hello @billias,
From my side, the Spirit V2 were working perfeclty since one week. Until yesterday. You will se on this graph something that you seems to know very well 
I have sent a message to Eurotronic with the logs… But I don’t have a lot of hope, I think that these devices are definitively bugged… I don’t know why in some cases, these overheat issues arise more often than in other cases, but I am sure of one thing : they arise…
In conclusion, as you said, the Spirit in V2 are just…exactly the same as the V1… but with a doubled price…
I am not crazy! time to send them all back for refund! as this is seriously a major issue.
did you trigger a boost in order to force it to close? or it recovered itself?
In my case they do not recover.
I do not expect a bug to be fixed when V1 and V2 uses the same firmware! this is a firmware issue probably.
My though is: when it tries to go from 1-3% -> 0% it goes nuts! as you can see only on small corrections is triggered
what you have there is ok, cause it recovered. But in my case I need to trigger a boost to force motor to move and recover.
I found on phone some technical support representative. He told me, he believes is a software issue. And wanted me to report. I will also share this topic, as reference.
Hello,
In order to recover, I have reset the valve (i.e. removing/replacing batteries + recalibration). An other way to recover correct operation is to send Boost/off command as you said.
I have one other installation site with 7 Spirit valves (which are in V1, but manufactured in 2020, FW 0.16), and on this site, this is catastrophic, I had two overheats on two different valves in 24 hours.
So there is one variable of the installation that generates loss of calibration, I don’t know what, probably linked to the stroke of the valve or the stifness of it. But in all cases, it will loose calibration, sometimes after one day, and sometimes after one week…
I had the overheating issue. The one valve was overheating by almost exactly 1.5 degrees (no offset).
After recalibrating, it is much better.
Waiting to see how it goes for a few days before diving in for the other rads
Guys, I not using HA (I have Vera+Domoticz), but still want to share with you with me experience regarding Spirit devices.
I have 7 units and using them for over 2 (or 3?) years now. I have different devices from different shipments.
So basically I have all problems that were discussed above:
-
sometimes when device is powered off, the valve remains open (it is not closing completely); there is 100% (in my case) workaround of this: do off-boost-off cycle when device is off; I have script for this and it is working in my case.
-
one of my devices is unable to reach seatpoint at all; for example when I write this - this device in on with setpoint=23deg, and temp in this room is 21.3deg. No matter what I do related to calibration the problem persist. But I noticed that when the delta between setpoint and actual temp is large enough (>2deg), the valve will open. I have no idea why this happens and don’t know how to fix that. The workaround is just to change setpoint to 27 or so and close the heater when it is warm enough in the room.
-
and last - but not least - of Spirit’s problems: in case of another my device, when I set it off the valve is closing completely but after several seconds it is opening again (but there is still ‘off’ on the display). So the valve is open, the heater is working but the status remains off. And after I manually do the on-off cycle, the problem repeats (so after several seconds valve is being opened again). The only workaround I have for this is to remove the batteries and install them again
I’m using external temp with all of my Spirits, but the Vera is configured not to send temp updates to devices that are off.
This is ‘smart home’ in case of Spirits
FWIW - new firmware will be coming soon - at least there is now a Github repo - see: https://github.com/EUROTRONIC-Technology/Spirit-ZigBee/issues/8
I verified the firmware upgrade via deCONZ addon yesterday with a spare TRV (note, that the current published firmware is older and the maintainer of the repo is currently working with Eurotronic) - see: https://github.com/EUROTRONIC-Technology/Spirit-ZigBee