Hey there,
I’m looking for some help finding an external PIR aka waterproof for the UK
Preferred WiFi but would go to 433Mhz something I can pick up on a rfxtrx 433.
Can be battery but prefer 240v mails.
This would then be used to trigger a light etc.
Any ideas I’m kind of struggling 
Neither of the protocols you listed, but philips hue do an outdoor motion sensor. I haven’t got one yet, but it is on my list and their indoor ones are really good.
Works on zigbee so either hue hub or dongle with zigbee2mqtt or equivalent.
I have been pretty happy with the hue outdoor motion sensor. It is in fact a multi-sensor in that it also reports light level and temperature. The light level sensor has become an important part of my configuration, likely more so than motion itself.
Never really dabbled in protocols beyond 433Mhz (LightwaveRF) was where I started and moved to the RFXCom rfxtrx433 to make things a bit more universal. Lack of a return status is a real pain though and started moving some kit across to Sonoff running Tasmota on WiFi.
I like the idea of the Phillips Hue sensor as it reports light level (lux?) and temperature, this one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Outdoor-Motion-Sensor-Compatible/dp/B07KMP8P1Q/
Trouble is means adding Zigbee, Started to google it and got a bewildering number of dongles etc.
Any recommendation on a Chinese dongle with Antenna?
Don’t mind flashing it myself etc.
I use this one with zigbee2mqtt…
Easy to flash over USB with the required firmware, reliable and strong signal. Not super cheap but definitely worth it.
(and yes, that’s the sensor I was talking about 
)
The CC26X2R1 seems a little more ‘pricey’ along with making/sourcing your own case, seem less ‘kits’ unless you can advise otherwise?
CC2531 looks to a million kits available, I’m guessing if I start out on the CC2531 route it’s easy enough to lift and shift into a CC26X2R1 if I ever get that far?
The pain with the 2531 is flashing it, and not brilliant range.
Lots of people successfully flash them (you can sometimes buy them pre-flashed too), but it is fiddly.
Range may not be an issue for you, but bear in mind that if your only device is a battery operated motion sensor then you have no ‘mesh’ so the messages have to get direct from the sensor to the dongle.
I’m not saying it won’t work, I don’t know the layout of your house etc, but just something to be aware of
Is this a kit version of the CC26X2R1 (dev board) you linked to?
If so this is looks more appetising
I’m not sure if I’m honest 
Well, while Hue may work over Zigbee, you do not necessarily have to get into the nitty gritty if you are willing to buy a Hue bridge V2, If so, then it would integrate with HA somewhat seamlessly, with the possibility that you use a Custom Component to increase polling frequency.
I use this combo, works fine!
TRÅDFRI - Wireless motion sensor, white
ConBee II
Home Assistant Integration: deCONZ
///Peter
I use some outside lights that have a pir in them. I wired in between the pir and the light a Shelly 1 running esphome. I also have a standalone pir that I managed to fit a Shelly 1 inside, using the switch input on the Shelly 1 to the output on the sensor and running esphome to make a binary sensor.
I originally had a smaller pir so had a box on the inside wall with the Shelly 1 inside.
I use standard burglar system PIRs for home assistant.
For my garden I installed Optex VXi-DAM, it’s dual tech (PIR+MW) and it has cool features like antimasking, tamper, mw immunity (for vegetation) etc. Link
It’s small animal proof, so it won’t alarm for cats, small dogs… (If you have bigger, or more then one dog, go for HX family …)
And it has a back box (originally for battery operated versions, but i put here the esp32, humidity&temp sensor, light sensor, and also the dc-dc converters.
Yes, you can’t use it directly to turn lamps on, but I have soo many bad experiences with simple outdoor sensors, so these sensors just send the signal to HA and then I switch my lamps with sonoff or shelly relays.
Thanks for all the great ideas, lot of food for thought
I put a Shelly1 inside my standard 240v outdoor motion sensors and they work a treat! The switch input is driven from the PIR output. Detach the switch input from the Shelly relay in the app (or web GUI).
With the Shelly1 can the ‘switch ports’ aka the activation points take a 240v current then?
I would imagine an external PIR is going to try and chuck out a 240v current to power a light, I know with the Sonof Mini it can’t be a full power.
That is the big difference between the shelly1 and the sonoff mini. The shelly1 does take 240v on it’s switch inputs, the sonoff mini does not.
Can’t get this working with a Shelly 1 and a PIR 
what am I doing wrong.
I’ve cabled it as here.
I have three blocks, one neutral, one live and the other for the PIR switched out.
I have live mains going to L & 1 on the Shelly 1 with a Live feed off to the PIR.
I have neutral going to N on Shelly 1, light neutral and the PIR neutral.
The other side of the light goes to 0 on the Shelly 1.
SW on the Shelly 1 are in a block to the PIR out.
I can turn the light on/off from a remote.
I can hear the PIR relay kicking in out but no light.
If I disconnect SW and the PIR out I can test Neutral to PIR out with 0v and if PIR activates 255v on the PIR end.
I can short the SW to PIR and the light activates whilst shorted and goes off it not.
This happens whether the PIR is active or not.
If I connect up SW to PIR I get a constant 208v neutral to PIR out at the PIR end and if PIR activates 255v.
This last bit doesn’t seem right to me, it should stay at 0v and the PIR out should liven it up and activate the SW to turn it on, I seem to be getting something back from the SW point on the Shelly 1
What am I doing wrong?
Does seem to matter what I pick in the Shelly software.
It seems some are compatible and some not. link to list in progress although progress might have fizzled out there.
The problem seems to be the SW point outputs a charge that causes an issue for some PIRs so in essence the SW point never ‘sees’ enough of a change so doesn’t trigger even though the PIR is going on/off and chucking 240v+ down the line.
Some people have put another ‘relay’ in between to take the voltage out of the loop but kind of defeats the object of the small Shelly 1.
Has anyone in the UK got a ‘working’ PIR with a Shelly 1 triggering the SW point?
