Flex-table-card

To answer my own question (well at least half of it), I can do cells like this:

type: custom:flex-table-card
title: Russian River Level
entities:
  include: sensor.russian_river_flood_data
columns:
  - name: Date/Time
    data: flooddata
    modify: x.valid
  - name: Level
    data: flooddata
    modify: x.level
    align: right
  - name: Trend
    data: flooddata
    modify: x.trend
    align: center
  - name: Status
    data: flooddata
    modify: |-
      switch(x.status){
        case 'Above Monitor':
          '<div style="background-color: #FFE033;">' + x.status + '</div>';
          break;
        case 'Above Flood':
          '<div style="background-color: #F08080;">' + x.status + '</div>';
          break;
        default:
          x.status;
        }
  - name: Mode
    data: flooddata
    modify: x.mode