Hi Phil:
May be you can consider about WEM3080T
it will pass the AU certification in 3 weeks and get the RCM certificate.
this is a hardware installation video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoj6jcxxA-E&feature=youtu.be
you do not need to prepare extra power socket for the energy meter.
Hi OzGaz,
I have a very similar setup. I have solar (and get the PV output from the inverter over wifi, thank goodness) but also get stuck with the grid consumption.
I used a pulse meter (like PowerPal) to read the red flashes that correspond to energy use. My model is the Atlas MK7c, picture attached.
I used this ESPHome cookbook entry as a guide (Non-Invasive Power Meter) I used a D1 mini and ran cable (cat5 cable repurposed to run the 5V, GND, data to the box. In the box, as you can see, is a light sensor stuck on top of the blinking red light. The blue tac is holding the sensor on + keeping light out. I only just got this up and running a few weeks ago so haven’t properly tidied it up. Some tips: when testing this, turn off your solar and run a high wattage appliance like the dishwasher, oven, air con as you need it to blink to actually work. Interestingly (i.e. frustratingly), the sensitiviy setting on the sensor (adjust with screwdriver) needed to be set for when the power meter lid was closed. Strangely, light was getting in somehow and messing with the readings.
I tried a few different ESPHome sensor settings, but this one worked for me (and probably works for your model given it’s the same brand):
#### ESP HOME config, not in home assistant
sensor:
# usage right now in kW
- platform: pulse_counter
pin: D4 # change your pin to whatever you're using
unit_of_measurement: 'kW'
name: 'Grid energy usage'
id: power_meter
internal_filter: 10us # Cookbook article says ESP7266 (i.e. D1 mini) can suffer too much noise and needs internal_filter, and count_mode set.
count_mode:
rising_edge: DISABLE
falling_edge: INCREMENT
filters:
- multiply: 0.06 # (This number is calculated by dividing 60 with the imp/kWh of your power meter)
update_interval: 30s
accuracy_decimals: 1
Hopefully the above helps some poor bloke who is trying to figure this all out.
Thanks Tom. I made something similar to you but it seems my meter flashes for reasons other than reporting energy use. It was pretty much a constant pulse rate so ended up being no good.
Was a handy experiment though!
Have you noticed any discrepancies with your iotawatt readings? I have a CT on each circuit plus the incoming supply and the sum of all outgoing circuits does not match the grid reading. I’ve been meaning to look into it for a while but haven’t had time. The values are way off. I’m on 3 phase power and initially thought I had a setting wrong (selecting the wrong phase for a circuit or two) but I double checked and they are all correct. Interested to know if you have checked outgoing circuits vs grid total
I have a 3 phase switchboard and have clamped the 3 inputs to that - so i get total house draw.
My 2nd IOTAWatt has just arrived as have the clamps so i will be clamping the solar inputs and the 3 phase from the grid so that i can get total consumption etc.
With my current setup i find that all 3 phases match up to each of the loads that i have instrumented - and more importantly with what i think i should be getting charged for
There is a bit of juggling of calculations as i am currently having to pull data from Iotawatt for consumption, Solar production from its app and then Grid draw from a hard wired meter
No, this is purely a discrepancy between the total of outgoing circuits and what I’m reading from the grid (and it’s a huge difference sometimes). I think it must be a setting in the iotawatt somewhere.
EDIT: I just logged into the iotawatt and looked at the settings and outputs again… starting to think it is due to pf given that the overall grid pf is so low due to being a combination of my loads and the solar generation. I’ll do a comparison at night when there is no solar generation
There was a good write up in Bobs blog on the IOTAWatt forum about making sure everything is setup correctly with the inputs.
I worked out when i deployed a Sonoff PowR2 that i was seeing some weird stuff in IOTAWATT - tracked it down to EBAY CT clamps that were not labelled correctly and needed to be reversed.
I thought for a while there i had the worlds most efficient Pool Pump
I’m on 3 phase, using the iotawatt supplied CT’s and the Jaycar VT. I’ve triple checked the CT’s but a forth time can’t hurt! I didn’t get around to checking night time values as I keep forgetting
I just had a read. I recently re-wired my entire switchboard and everything is colour coded Red / White / Blue so I have no issues seeing which phase a particular CT is on. I will however do another full check to try and see what is wrong.
Thanks for the link hint. There are some good posts to read on that forum
Yeah mine it all colour coded with a big schneider board i had done about 5 years ago - but was tripped up by the CT clamps being labelled incorrectly (some of them !!)
I asked on their forums for any advice based on the limited info I have. I’ll just link that here:
Any advice from Aussie locals can would be great.
Regards,
Michal
P,S, I want to monitor the solar as well as have the Fronius Smart Meter this will allow me to calibrate one against the other plus having all the data in one place is convenient. As is the web based Fronius portal.
I have both the IoTaWatt and a Fronius inverter as well.You don’t need the Fronius Smart Meter since the inverter will give you all the solar data and the rest you can get with the IoTaWatt.
Integration is super easy for both of them.
Fronius:
Use the custom_component by SafePay. It’s in HACS. It is better than the core HA integration.
IoTaWatt:
This is also really easy. There is an integration in the making which I believe you can install as a custom_component as well but I just use rest sensors.
Using similar code to above you can pull the ‘output’ data from the IoTaWatt as well. I don’t currently have any setup but all you need to do is add extra template sensors as per above but replacing ‘input’ with ‘output’.
Ignore the bad figures in the below as I need to adjust the settings in my IoTaWatt when I get a chance. I think some inputs are set to the wrong phase so totals aren’t lining up as they should.
Any recent changes on this?
Im in a unit as well that makes it a little more complex.
Maybe an energy provider that allows API access to get reads from them?
There is ONE big problem with IAMMETER in Australia. They connect directly to the power, so they MUST be installed by a Licensed Electrician.
The IoTaWatt avoids this by using an AC Plugpack to determine the AC voltage, and even if you need to get a GPO installed that will be cheaper than connecting to all 3 phases.
As an electrician with both devices, I’ll have to disagree with this Dave. Assuming a standard residential external meter box / switchboard enclosure, the Iammeter is far easier and cheaper to install.
I own and use both devices (Iammeter for the mains and IoTaWatt for the circuits)
Both use CTs for current measurement.
Iammeter uses direct connection for voltage, IoTaWatt a separate VT requiring its own GPO.
The Iammeter uses 2 poles in the switchboard for single phase or 4 poles for 3 phases. It is recommended to also use a separate non-RCD CB but could be piggybacked on an existing circuit if space becomes an issue. For my switchboard, it was literally a 10-minute install time for single phase unit.
The IoTaWatt will likely require an external enclosure due to its size and additionally, 2 GPOs which will need to be RCD protected. The build and install for this bumps up the cost considerably.
An additional consideration is operating temperature. I couldn’t find it for IoTaWatt but Iammeter is rated at 60 degrees C. We’ve had a few 40+ days here which would be considerably higher in the board when the sun hits it in the afternoon - the Iammeter is still going strong.