This is slightly off-topic, but the answer depends on what is for you a good chlorine level? This depends also on your pH and CYA level and how many m³ your pool has and how much salt is in. The system is specified for ‘up to…’, but this is not necessarily correct.
Looks like an incorrect measurement. How did you measure it? If it was a current clamp, then hopefully you didn’t just use it on the black cable to the cell. That measures rubbish.
This is how you should run a hydrolsis system.
On the contrary, CYA can cause problems, e.g. it can interfere the redox measurement which then leads into a wrong dosing with chlorine production.
CYA is needed to protect chlorine degradation from UV light. Hayward recommends 20-30 ppm value for outdoor pools. For indoor pools it’s not needed, for obvious reasons.
No, they recommend these values as a maximum and only if you need the stabiliser - that is a small but subtle difference.
With a sufficiently dimensioned system, you don’t need any CYA, it only interferes the redox measurement.
0ppm CYA means that free chlorine is not protected by UV light and will be consumed much faster if the pool is fully exposed to sunlight. That’s why also Hayward recommends stabilizer, if needed, and they specify 0ppm for indoor because there’s no sunlight.
In the Aquarite+ manual they write: “Start with a stabiliser level of 30ppm”
However, it is important to know that CYA massively reduces the effectiveness of chlorine, see also (only one of a lot example): Minimal CYA | Pillar 4
I don’t want it, I don’t need it. For me a fast germ-killing speed (CT) is more important than chlorine that is stable against UV. This is produced immediately, that’s what I have the system for.
It’s also important to maintain a stable chlorine level, that’s why CYA is a factor for outside pools. sunlight quickly consumes it, CYA protects it, that’s why there’s a chemical balance to take into account. With CYA=0 in outside pools you are reducing effectiveness of disinfection, too much CYA and you’re doing the same too, there’s a balance to be reached.
Hello both @curzon01 and thank you for the above ideas exchange, kindly allow me to reply to you all with some additional facts to close the topic.
I measured amp consumption at the OXILIFE main plug (with a clamp on the line wire) so it will indeed be the major consumption of the 0.3 amps (At 220v) linked to the cell.
I’m runnign a fixed speed pump at 15mch for a pool of 40mc for 12h / day , the night is switched off. I was planning to run VTSD.
I’m in north italy, currently temps are 35-25(night) the pool is exposed to direct sunlinght for about 3/4 of the pump running time
water temp run 28-31 deg C. I have oxilife OX1 so should be capable to produce for a 40mc pool >28 deg C.
on the water return, after the sand filter i have a 75 w UV lamp
I did few water measurement with Ox1 production at 100%, running with a CYA of 4ppm the FCL was changing between 0.1 and 0.5 mg/l during the day, being the morning of course the smaller value (when the pump restart)
They CYA present was due to the first chlorination i did after having filled the pool for the first time (it’s a new pool started last june) . The thrichlore i added to start the pool was about 800g in total.
few days ago as i couldn’t raise the fcl i did, just before leaving for vacation a shock chlorination with thriclore of approx 1kg on the pool, yesterday at my return, i found the pool at 1,3 fcl with total chlorine at 1,55 and a CYA level of 16ppm .
I’m not quite sure , if you are running 0ppm CYA, what are the fcl levels you are targeting to ensure sterilization @curzon01 can you share it with me.
I can’t find a wiring schema. I know it’s simple, but my chlorinator (Hayward), doesn’t show a map for the RS485 pins for the wifi addon (I guess that’s were this should be pluged in, right?).
Can anyone help me out about pin order? Also Tail485 labeling doesn’t seem too easy for me. I’ve developed a couple of RS485 integrations before, but no can’t figure how the ping go here.
Thank you @alexdelprete didn’t know that info was at the Tasmota website. All the process was quite straight forward and I got it working with this final help.
I would add this info about wiring in your repo, it would be really helpful
Glad you got it working. I linked the official NeoPool doc site for all the details, but probably I should highlight it better. I don’t want to clone it since my integration is just the Home Assistant side of the project, but I’ll think about improving it.
Feel free to submit a PR for the docs if you have some time to dedicate, we’ll appreciate it.
In my case, after a quick search, I got started in this thread and your repo (same info) in fact, didn’t notice the Tasmota Sugar Valley page until you linked it xD
I was thinking the same, after a couple days using this, I’ll consider making a PR to your repo adding the info I missed between both pages
Right now, I’m facing two caveats:
Salt concentration in water (g/l): this value that appears in my chlorinator screen but I can’t find it in the sensors or the tasmota page. Is it available anywhere?
Pump scheduling: this appears in the tasmota page and is easy to understand, but seems quite complicated to manage witouth writting some python code and building a proper HA integration
I have 0.2-1.3 ppm fcl at pH 7.2, 28°C and CYA 0 depending on the water load (contamination, sun etc.), but this is not really helpful for you because your Oxi 1 is too small for CYA 0 for your (presumably uncovered) 40 m³.
To work with CYA 0:
the hydrolysis system must be able to generate approx. 1 g/h of chlorine per m³ of pool volume, which the Oxi 1 can’t do. At 1.5 g/l salt, it delivers 14 - 16 g chlorine per hour (I therefore have 2.5 - 2,8 g/l salt in the water, because of my 24 m³).
control the pool disinfection purely via the redox potential, then fcl is secondary (at 750 mV you have a germ-killing speed of a few seconds, which is sufficient for very good water quality).
to avoid additional CYA, use inorganic chlorine (liquid, as a stick or from the Oxi). CYA remains in the water and can only be reduced by adding fresh water (e.g. by backwashing) - to avoid unnecessary discussions, there are also other methods of removing CYA, but these are not really economically viable for us private user because they are too expensive.
As the CYA is an additional expense, I decided using CYA 0 and chose a system suitable for my pool size.
I agree with you, I’m also a friend of technical diversity and avoid too much centralisation. It’s easier to manage, but if it fails, nothing works. Whenever possible, I use the device’s own functionalities.
However, I haven’t yet come up with a really good way to manage the timers in HA.
