Thanks @luma for all the hard work… screen has been ordered! I can’t wait to have a play!
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I’ve updated the demo automations and configuration.yaml to rename input_slider to input_number in response to breaking changes in release 0.55.
I have a problem with new input_number component, never used it before (even when it was an input_slider). I supose, that it should display slider or a box (depending on the configuration) in the frontend. My input number’s doesn’t allow me to input any value, is that an expected behavior?
AFor testing purposes, i have set an initial value 1 on HASP Active Page. And it works, but still, no possibility to change values from frontend
I ran into this the other day but it only occurs if I use the community made HA app for windows, Linux, and Mac. For some reason the sliders do not show in that app. But if I go to the frontend in a web browser, everything displays fine and I am able to move the sliders. How are you viewing the HA frontend and what app or browser are you using?
EDIT: I just tested using Chrome and the issue appears there as well. The sliders work in Safari and Firefox and in the iOS app though.
Really looking forward to any info you can share about your success to fit into a UK/EU square plate…
Are you planning to print a plate? Or you have some other plan?
I would LOVE to be able to get something fitting into a double euro module (= 50mm square) like the one below, but from a quick check I did I found no screen is a good match.
You should be able to find rectangle double module in EU. I’m from Poland and I was also looking for a way to fit it into a standard holder, and found some suitable in local stores (vertical and horizontal ones), look:
The only difference is that (what my measurements say) you will need a 3,2 inch Nextion screen (instead of 2,8 one) and recompile the TFT file from the repo. But that is an easy task, I managed to recompile tft file for 3,5 inch Nextion screen (i have one of these), and it took me about an hour.
Due to the breaking change, you may want to clarify on the git hub repo and in the documentation this will only work on HA v0.55 and higher.
I’m using Chrome on Windows. But I get exact the same behavior on my mobile Chrome. Strange…
yeah I just tested it on chrome on windows. It’s the only browser that has issues with it.
Got it! Try if it works in Incognito mode (it works for me), probably there is some cache (on desktop and mobile app) which prevents you from displaying component properly. If that works, that mean you need to clear cache. To force a cache clean, do as below:
- Open your hass frontend,
- Open developer options (F12)
- Press and hold left button on “refresh button” page"
- Select third option (clear cache and reload)
I intend to start with one of the below and then take my dremel to it whilst developing, and then when my 3d printer arrives (xmas pressie) ill be making my own faceplate complete with mounting holes for the display.
(http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Blanking-Plate-1-Gang-White/p/710192)
These are 86mm outer width, and the inner wall is about 3-4mm, the 2.4" Nextion display (NX3224K024) is about 74-75mm long, so should fit into the inner of the faceplate comfortably with a couple of mm to spare.
I may even look at some of the nicer blanking plates such as the screwless black nickel effect etc; http://www.wickes.co.uk/search?text=blanking%20plate
You wont be able to use the connector of the nextion, so will need the wires soldering direct to the board as @luma has in the pic several posts up (post 138).
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Thanks! These are similar to what I am using for a ESP8266 rotary encoder dimmer project… but I only had to drill one hole in the middle 
With dremel + steady hands (or a cnc milling machine 
) you may even be able to get better results than 3d printing printing. Got to go slow though because that stuff is brittle.
I love 3d printers, but I think for this application that, even with a good quality print, the surface will collect finger dirt too easily.
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I’ve drilled them before (4 holes for satellite f-connectors), and as long as your bit is nice and sharp and you take your time it works ok.
Will grab one this weekend and post of the results of how well the dremel copes with it, lol.
As for finger prints thats a whole other issue, constantly polishing finger prints off my chrome switches already 
The Crabtree plates I use actually have a drill guide in the centre of the back. I just stepped up incrementally through a bunch of (sharp) drills. Like you say just take it slow.
First of, i’d like to say thank you for sharing this project with all of us in here. So far with your help and others, i was able to come up with this. It is still an ongoing project and a bit rough; but i’d like to know what i could have done different and better. I’m wide open for critics.
PCB:
Setup:
test:
NB: if anybody is interested on having the pcb design, let me know
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There is a big thread over at https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers about in wall transformer use (they’re powering nodemcu, but easily adapted for the Wemos D1 Mini), the circuit diagram at the top is the result of a lot of discussion and testing, to make it as safe as possible to leave 24/7 in you wall cavity, you may want to have a read of that.
You can also put it up for comment over at https://electronics.stackexchange.com/, where you will get comments about adding slots between the ac input to increase creepage distance (dependant on your countries regulations, etc)
thank you very much for input and advice. I’ll check that out
no worries, im in the same boat as you at the moment
First of all, @mistrovly I am beyond thrilled with your work here 
In regards to the thread linked above, the circuit they present around the HLK-PM01 is A Good Idea, but it’s also unnecessary with the MeanWell IRM-03 I spec in the build, which is precisely why that part was specified. It has built-in input overvolt and overcurrent protection along with solid filtering on both input and output. It carries the necessary certifications and shouldn’t present EMC problems.
You can save a few dollars buying Chinese supplies, but you wind up spending it again once you add the required protection components and it also costs you footprint on the board. There are a lot of places you can cut corners on this build but the part that is directly handling the high-voltage side isn’t the first place I’d look.
thank you for the advice