Help wiring a Shelly 1

[bphillips921 (Brad Phillips)]

I have about 15 high wattage (120W) LED lights in my garage. You could perform surgery in there, which is great while I am working on stuff. But I recently learned that it’s not much fun to have a party for friends in a room lit for surgery. So, I want to put a Shelly 1 in each of my lights electrical boxes so that I can turn individual lights on/off in order to lower the lighting when I want to.

My question is how to wire this. The electrical boxes will only have power when the light switch (which turns all the lights on) is turned on. I want the lights to operate like normal but the ability to turn individual lights off after all the lights have been turned on. I realize I’ll need to wait for the shellys to connect to my wifi after turning the light switch on. I’m ok with that.

Is this how I would wire it?

This is what I was planning for my ESPHome code for each Shelly

esphome:
  name: shelly-1
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp01_1m

# Enable logging
logger:

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:

ota:
  password: "XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX"

wifi:
  ssid: "Phillips_IoT"
  password: "xxxxxx"
  #Static IP
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: 192.168.1.188
    gateway: 192.168.1.1
    subnet: 255.255.255.0
  #Turn Off Power Save Mode
  power_save_mode: none
  fast_connect: on

  # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
  ap:
    ssid: "Shelly-1 Fallback Hotspot"
    password: "XXXXXXXXXXXXX"

captive_portal:

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: GPIO4
    name: "Shelly 1"
    restore_mode: ALWAYS_On
    inverted: true

[huu]

No! you need both Live and Neutral to wire the shelly 1. can you give wire diagram of your exist Light and swicth now?

is that what you got now? Sorry should like this?

Anyway if you got to ask this and by the look of your diagram, I think you need an electrician to help you.

[huu]

If your your existing as above then wired like this
O = output
I = input
SW= switch
L= live
N= neutral

[Hellis81]

Wouldn’t a easier and better solution be to remove the standard light switch then use a remote (ZigBee or zwave) to control the individual lights.

That way you could do single press all lights, double press 50%, triple press 33%.
Or if the remote has multiple buttons then you could control them in a different way

[assembly]

I guess the main problem is that the wiring from the switch to the light boxes isn’t easily accessible?

If so, it’s probably easier (and cheaper) to just replace the bulbs with smart ones (either bluetooth or wifi).

[bphillips921 (Brad Phillips)]

I’m very comfortable with electrical wiring. I just finished my basement and did all the electrical myself.

This is the current wiring schematic. I don’t have an always hot line in the light boxes. Wires just go from the switch to the light. When the light switch is turned on the light box will have power going to it. I realize that my Shellys will be offline until I turn the switch on and I’m fine with that for this application.

@Hellis81

Wouldn’t a easier and better solution be to remove the standard light switch then use a remote (ZigBee or zwave) to control the individual lights.

That way you could do single press all lights, double press 50%, triple press 33%.
Or if the remote has multiple buttons then you could control them in a different way

I’m currently using a Kasa light switch. I want these lights to work like normal if HA is down (big part of the WAF). Your solution would rely on HA to be up and functioning properly for the lights to even turn on. I will probably only turn off individual lights 3-4 times per year. For that reason, I’m ok with turning on the main light switch then waiting 30 seconds for the Shellys to be available before turning off individual units.

@assembly

I guess the main problem is that the wiring from the switch to the light boxes isn’t easily accessible?

If so, it’s probably easier (and cheaper) to just replace the bulbs with smart ones (either bluetooth or wifi).

2/3 of the light boxes are in an attic space and accessible from above, but I don’t need to access the wires from above, I don’t think.

I’m using some specific lights that are high powered and bright (120W LED, 12,000 Lumen). I don’t know of any comparable lights that are smart and would be cheaper to replace than buying a Shelly for each light.

[huu]

Oh I just realise it the same as what you already drawn above just different country have different colour code i supose? Make sure it RED = POSITIVE = LIVE
.

In the shelly web interface you can set it as follow…

[assembly]

@bphillips921

2/3 of the light boxes are in an attic space and accessible from above, but I don’t need to access the wires from above, I don’t think.

I was thinking about one of those 16 relais ESP boards, but that depends on accesibility.
But to answer your question from post one; yes it would probably work. 15 Shellies just for the lights in one room is quite expensiv, though.

@bphillips921

120W LED

So that would be almost 2000W just for the lights in one room!? You probably have american energy prices

[bphillips921 (Brad Phillips)]

@assembly

So that would be almost 2000W just for the lights in one room!? You probably have american energy prices

Yep! The garage is also heated to 68 degrees(f) all winter

[Hellis81]

I think you should have a better look at the top part of assemblys post.
I think that is a great suggestion.

If you wire the relay board to always have power and the lights in the relays as NC, when you flip the switch (this going to common on each relay) then all lights go on, and you get instant control from HA to switch off lights.
You could actually do it in advance by setting the relay board to half off then power on the common with the switch.

[mhinch]

I have a setup much like the OP. However, I just can’t cram the Shelly + extra wires needed for it into the box. I’m considering buying space (and flexibility) by using 22ga wire (insulation rated to 300v) for all but the load (e.g., 0 and 1 in Shelly terminology. Shelly1 specs say it’s power dissipation is <1W, so it seems OK. Anyone see any problem (or have experience) with a setup like that?

[parautenbach (Pieter Rautenbach)]

You should check the electrical codes and regulations for your region/country. What might electrically be safe may still not be legal. Or get a qualified electrician. You can void your insurance, for example.

[bphillips921 (Brad Phillips)]

@parautenbach

You can void your insurance

I own an insurance brokerage and we hear this common misconception from time to time. If I modify my house and that modification causes an insured loss that alone isn’t enough to void my insurance. The insurance company would need to prove that I intended to cause the loss.

Another common misconception is that auto insurance is void if you drive drunk or are otherwise breaking the law. That’s also not true.

We always say “stupidity is a covered peril”.

[parautenbach (Pieter Rautenbach)]

Doesn’t make my statement less true:

@parautenbach

You can void your insurance, for example.

It’s a disclaimer and sensible for someone doing potentially something dangerous. You should know you’re taking a chance if you’re not qualified. In my country, you could definitely run into trouble to get a certificate of compliance issued (unless you remove it, of course).

Anyway, it’s the last I’ll say on the topic. I’ve heard you.