Homeassistant and Zigbee - new build

Hardware
1

Hello

I am in the process of building a new home and planning to implement a home automation system. I have the following objectives with this automation system:

  1. No battery powered devices, I want everything to be mains powered.
  2. One central control screen to control and/or view everything
  3. Controlled remotely (where mentioned). By remotely I mean outside the home via the internet.
  4. All equipment must be compliant for the Australian market.

Hoping to get some feedback on this as to whether it will all work together (and any suggestions you may have):

HomeAssist hub - intel i5 PC with SSD running ubuntu backed by UPS supply. PC will also run a media server (PLEX). CONWAYII Zigbee gateway installed.

All TVs: Ethernet CAT6 hard wired for media and CCTV streaming

Light switches - Zigbee light switches, hardwired to light, wireless communication to HA hub: MakeGood Zigbee 1 Gang Smart Light Switch. Light switches to be controlled by screen (see below).

LED Strip lighting in various areas: via standard 240/24V transformer powered by Zigbee light switch - controlled by screen (see below).

Motorised blinds - SOMFY with zigbee controller, draws power off motor supply. Single phase supply to motor. Controlled by screen (see below).

Pool pump + heater - wired through 3 phase contactors (x2). Zigbee relay switch modules (any recommendations)? 3PH+N to IP rated box. 3PH through contactors and tap off 1PH+N through switch modules to switch contactors. Controlled by screen (see below).

Sensor lights: Zigbee (or alternative?) PIR sensors (5off around the home). Will communicate with HUB and turn lights on/off via above mentioned light switches. I’m struggling to find one that is hard wired.

CCTV: Standalone System Hikvision 6 cameras + 8CH NVR with HDMI over Ethernet extenders to broadcast to all TVs. CAT6 to all cameras https://www.securitywholesalers.com.au/product/8mp-8ch-hikvision-cctv-kit-6-x-outdoor-turret-cameras-8ch-nvr/ - will this interfeer with media streaming to TVs? Also, I would like this to broadcast to HomeAssist so I can view cameras through the HUB (remotely) and locally via screen.

Doorbell - standard hard wired door bell. There will be a camera out the front to see who is there via CCTV system above.

Alarm system: Not sure about this, only need 6 PIRs and a keypad, but would like alerts via HomeAssist and would like to display status of PIRs on the screen and remotely.

Heating/cooling control: Zigbee compatible, this will probably be dictated by the HVAC system I put in, does anyone know of any zigbee controllers out there?

Irrigation system: Zigbee controlled solenoid valves connected with status via mains water supply via screen/remotely.

Screens: Two screens throughout the house with a nice interface to control all of this via HomeAssist. Not sure on what to do here, is it just a standard tablet? Is the interface via web browser? Or is there a program you install on it? I will run CAT6 to both screens.

2

can the CCTV output in a “rtsp” format then you could use frigate and AI the Images

all think about POE only have to run one wire to a place

also RUN 3 CAT6 leads to each room as there can run POE or HDMI or just a SIMPLE speaker system. and one can be just a backup

run CAT6 to each Window POE for BLINDS (automated) or sensor (open/Close)

I would put a POE switch in the roof space then only one cat6 back to server room
put 2 x double power plugs in roof space power switch power POE and power light (to see) Fan (keep you cool)

my 5 cents on the Zigbee i wont

I have 3 Zigbee switches they are a pain my a…

but do like the Zigbee temperature modules small easy to hide if needed

I have over 30 tasmota stuff running in MQTT and they have not miss a beat think my office lights switch is over 4 years old and its still working

but in say that IF i was starting again I do everything SHELLY ( have a 3 ) and the above comments

3

You forgot to mention whether the IoT-devices you are planning to implement should be allowed to call home or whether they should work purely on local access (but not excluding remotely controlled by you).

Seems to be very much depending on the coordinator and MQTT implementation in use. 30+ Zigbee devices here (sensors and switches, hard wired and battery driven) and they have not miss a beat for ~17 month now.

As for me Zigbee and Tasmota (and Sonoff for a few cases) are the devices to go.

SHELLY, besides of being much more pricey in comparison to other implementations are difficult to get where I live thus I can not comment on those.

Device types I am definitely avoiding (and now getting rid of) are Tuya based devices because of privacy and security concerns (care with your Hikvisions!).

Also take note, since you are still in the process of building your home, to have neutral wires to go through each and every switch point! With this you have a much broader choice when it comes to choosing the right switches. A switch wiring without neutral lines drastically reduces suitable products and those switches working without a neutral line are less reliable and you have to fiddle with capacitors.

4

Thanks for the responses. A neutral is mandatory in Australia for new home builds, so there will be a neutral present at every switch and every outlet.

Purely local access. All I want to do is login to the HomeAssist hub remotely to view the status of things.

I guess I’ll have to start buying this gear and bench testing, but appreciate the feedback and if anyone else has any recommendations.

Good tip about the redundancy with the CAT6, I’ll be sure to do that.

5

Many… many years ago I spent the effort and expense to have my new home wired throughout with (at the time) state of the art cat-3 and rj-58 coax and 8 wire telephone. By the time I utilized everything, it was all obsolete.
So if you wire now for cat-6, in 2 years will you be annoyed that everything is now cat-9 or direct fibre? Just something to ponder. Also, battery operated, wireless (i.e. zigbee or Z-wave) sensors are really quite reliable and easier to relocate within the room when you discover dead zones and hot spots.
Now making sure there are electrical outlets near/below windows, doors and lots of other places… that one you can thank me for later and it won’t ever become obsolete.
:slight_smile:

6

Thanks for the response. Even if CAT6 becomes obsolute, for the amount of data we are talking I think CAT6 will be fine for many years to come. Even CAT5 will still do the trick with this :slight_smile:

7

Just make sure to choose CAT6 STP over the cheaper CAT6 UTP:

  • STP = Shielded Twisted Pair
  • UTP = Unshielded Twisted Pair

Besides of effectively reducing EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference) STP cables are also suppressing the risk of fried LAN ports/NICs if you live in an area where lightning strikes happen frequently. This is an advise based on my own painful experience having once chosen UTP cabling just to keep the price tag low. It got much more expensive in the long term :money_mouth_face:

If you decide for STP-type cabling please also note that shielded Ethernet cable includes a drain wire to provide grounding that cancels the effects of EMI. Make sure to use shielded jacks and couplers throughout your STP installation to maintain the benefits of STP cabling!

Regardless of whether you choose UTP or STP, make sure to install high-quality cabling. The better the quality of the cables used, the more years of service you will get out of the installation, reducing long-term replacement and labor costs.

8

Thanks for the replies all