How To: Driveway Swing Gate Automation (Shelly + BFT) - Working Perfectly with states!

Share your Projects!
, ,
38

@Khar thanks for this guide, I found it really useful when setting up my Thalia P and Guino Ultra motor.

The only small issue I have (not sure if I’ve not done something right, or it’s just how it is) is that if I use the BFT remote control to open or close the gate, HA doesn’t know the gate state. It’s an easy fix in that if it’s closed and I tell HA to close the gate, the state is restored.

I have to say, that I’ve not implemented anything on Aux setting 8 (magnetic lock) which could fix that.

The only other thing, is the open and close buttons work great, but I am not able to stop the gate at any point. With the remote, I press it once to open, again to stop, and again to close.

With a second Uni, and therefore more outputs, I can see I can implement the Logic 4 Ped (pedestrian) feature which looks good.

It looks like 71 gives a stop / go function so I’m going to investigate that too.

39

@perimore Thanks for this. I copied you and it works great!

40

Hello @Khar ,
How is your ESPHome project?
Would you mind of sharing ESPHome config?
Thanks

41

Hello, thank you for your guide.

Can someone help me with my Garage Gate Control Unit? It is a Roger H70/10CC-11CC.

IMG_0447
IMG_04471456×1790 217 KB

I am able to control the opening and closing of the gate using the Shelly Plus 1. Having my home electrical installation connected to the Live and Neutral connections of the Shelly and the terminals 0 and I of the Shelly connected to the gate board terminals PP and COM.

Alternatively, I could also power the Shelly with 24V by connecting the gate board terminal 24V to the Shelly connector N, and the board connector COM to the Shelly connector L. The Shelly connectors 0 and I would still be connected to PP and COM.
(I hope the +/- wiring are not reversed)

I noticed that I could possibly have an indication if the gate is not closed if the gate board connectors SC/COM are connected to a 24Vdc light.

Is there a way I could connect the SC connector to a Shelly to have an indication of “Door Not Closed”?
I tried connecting the gate board terminal SC to the Shelly terminal SW but I get no switch indication change in the Shelly APP when the door is open.

How could I fix this?

Thank you in advance.

1 Like
42

This is the explanation of the board connectors.

IMG_0446
IMG_04461332×1099 395 KB

43

Hello,
just wanted to summarize all the information regarding Thalia + Shelly UNI.
What we get in HA:
Cover entity with changing icon (gates closed/open) and corresponding buttons enabled.
The states are represented no matter how you activate gate operations.
image
image

  1. Configure Thalia
    a) use this connection scheme:
    #60 COM → OUT1 and OUT2 GND, this is common ground
    #61 IC1 → OUT1 - to activate opening of gates
    #62 IC2 → OUT2 - to activate closing of gates
    #51 24V+ → #27 and Vcc(1)
    #50 24V- → N(2)
    #20 → IN_1(7) - you will get 24V when gates are moving
    #26 → IN_2(8) - you will get 24V when gates are closed

    image
    image1146×876 147 KB

    b) Set logic of Output 1 to IC=2 : Open
    c) Set logic of Output 2 to IC=3 : Close
    d) Set logic of Input 1 wired to terminal #20-21, Aux0=6 : “FLASHING LIGHT, Contact stays closed while leaves are operating”
    e) Set logic of Input 2 wired to terminal #26-27, Aux3=8 : “MAGNETIC LOCK, Contact stays closed while gate is closed”

  2. Configure your shelly UNI as follows:
    a) Chanel 1 and 2 set “Button type” as “Detached Switch”
    b) “appliance type” as “relay”
    c) set “Timer”->“Auto off” - 0.5 second
    d) “Power On Default” - “Off”
    e) Restart your shelly uni - this was important for me as shelly was not working properly until I restarted it.

  3. HA should discover your UNI by now, so just configure you entities names.
    a) IN_1 and IN_2 sensors are disabled by default, so just enable them in HA UNI device.
    b) I have set IN_2 as “bft_shelly_gates_closed”, “Show as”: “Power”, “Icon”: “mdi:gate”
    c) IN_1 as “bft_shelly_gates_moving”, “Show as”: “Moving”, “Icon”: “mdi:gate-open”
    d) add a cover:

- platform: template
  covers: 
    bft_gates:
      device_class: gate
      friendly_name: "BFT Gates"
      value_template: >-
        {% if is_state('binary_sensor.bft_shelly_gates_closed', 'off') %}
          open
        {% else %}
          closed
        {% endif %}
      optimistic: true
      open_cover:
        service: switch.turn_on
        data:
          entity_id: switch.bft_shelly_channel_1_open
      close_cover:
        service: switch.turn_on
        data:
          entity_id: switch.bft_shelly_channel_2_close

If someone finds something I have missed - please let me know - I will correct the post

Thanks for everyone who shared you implementations to make this post possible

44

So the implementation looks nice, but any clue about the “stop” feature (stop the gate) ?
That’s the main feature that I would like to have and it seems like no one found a way to have this without the “bft api”

45

The only way I can think of is using one more relay to break the circuit between #70 and #71. This does stop gates, but I’m not sure this won’t break the states.

46

Hello,

I have a BFT Icaro sliding gate and a Shelly UNI to “smartify” it.
I would like to follow rupertas’ summary, but on my board it looks like #20 and #21 are 230v, not 24V. I suppose I can’t wire my shelly’s input to it? In that case where do you think I could plug wire those inputs?

Wiring table:

image
image1471×1100 251 KB

Full control board user manual:

Thanks in advance.

47

I’m not good at electronics but maybe You could try using some kind of optocoupler or relay on those pins, although it is said “flashing” so the state of “sensor” would be “flashing” as well

48

Thanks.
Do you think I could use #52 instead, that seems to be active only when gate is moving?

49

if it does what it sais, but you should check how it behaves with multimeter first

50

I’ve used this setup that you described here, working pretty good so far. Thank you for that.

There is one issue that I encountered, its seems that if you have the aux light connected to the #20-21, even when the gate is closed there is some output which is picked up by the Shelly Uni Int - 1. Only when no light is connected the opening signal is picked up correctly.

Using the #26-27 on Aux3=8 works fine for detecting the gate is closed but it seems enough to get the state of the gate.

I also added another relay to close the #70-71 for stopping the gate on command, it doesn’t break the state which is nice, in case anyone wants to do that.

51

This is strange, as light is not emitting any power, but I did not test it with lights connected - waiting for spring (too cold now).
You could try swapping Aux0 with Aux3 (contacts, logic etc.) and connect lights on #26-27 as these are dry contacts that you additionally power with #51

I also added another relay to close the #70-71 for stopping the gate on command, it doesn’t break the state which is nice, in case anyone wants to do that

Nice to hear :slight_smile:

52

Dear Andy, did this work out?
I am contemplating buying a Roger unit for my new gates. It is essential that this will work with my home assistant…

53

Hello,

I’m looking to automate my driveway swing doors using a Shelly Plus 1 alongside my ‘V2-CITY1-ECD’ control unit. Can anyone advise which port on the control unit I should connect the Shelly switch to for optimal automation?

Wiring diagram:

Wiring_diagram
Wiring_diagram1604×2224 262 KB

Here is the full manual of this control unit

Thanks in advance.

54

Hello, I have a BFT Deimos Ultra BT A600 which embeds a MERAK ARES board. It does output 24V AC and uses it also for the flashing light.

As first tentative, I decided to install a Shelly 1 Plus. I was (wrongly) sure that my board was using DC current. Since I wanted to “read” if the gate was open/closed, I had to lose the 2nd button on my remote because I use AUX 26-27 to turn on/off the garden lights. The only way to get it working was to use a 230V AC to 12V DC transformer.

Then I saw this thread and I got attracted by the possibility to “read” also the flashing light status, so I could get when the gate was moving (and so set the closing/opening states). I first write a template for the gate as “cover” and created some automations to set states, then bough the Shelly Uni (not the Plus version which is not compatible with low voltage AC current).

Unfortunately the Shelly Uni with my unit is useless:

  • the opened/closed state is not working correctly: the Shelly seems to update it immediately when the gate opens but then it doesn’t update it once it gets closed, unless I reboot it (AUX logic set to n.8 - of course);
  • when the 2nd input is connected to the flashing light, it starts “magically” to output about 5V AC, which I don’t have when the Shelly is not connected. The result is that this low voltage (which doesn’t turn on the flashing light) is enough for the Shelly to mark the input as ON.

Maybe it’s only my Shelly Uni defective but for the moment after two failures, I gave up the idea of using Shelly devices.
I’m waiting to receive the new “official” module named BFT B-EBA EVO WI FI, which uses the TaHoma app and I hope that it will be compatible with Home Assistant. It’s not as cheap as a Shelly but it’s plug and play and gets all states without write any code. Also, I would not lose the 2nd button on the pysical remote. There isn’t any post about this specific new module not only when talking about Home Assistant but in general if searching some user experiences about it.
I will update this reply/post a new one once I will receive it.

55

Did you measure the input AC voltage on BTF? You could have “overvoltage” on your grid.
I see that you are using “2nd input” for lights which are #26-#27 and they are dry contacts.
Did you try using the exact schema as in this post?
As that is my configuration and I have no problems with it.
I have a flashing lights connected on #20-#21

56

I usually have 240V on my grid, I don’t think it can be considered as an over voltage. The problem might be related to the BFT board that did output about 26V AC but everything is working fine, without the Shelly. I use the 2nd input as a contact for a relay, of course.

I did the exact same wiring as the scheme, except for the relais because I was first checking if the input were working correctly

57

Hi,

I am dealing with this now.

From what I can see sending commands to OPEN or CLOSE us simple - I will just use 2 x Shelly 1 Minis with pins 60/61/62 to complete the circuit for 1 second.

Getting the gate status seems little bit more difficult because it’s all AC.

I have sat with the gate and the manual and a multimeter and like you worked out that setting one of the AUX output connectors (20/21 or 20/26) to the Aux Logic = 1 basically gives you gate status

Aux logic= 1 - SCA GATE OPEN LIGHT output.
Contact stays closed during opening and with leaf open, intermittent during closing, open with leaf closed.

The problem is that it’s 24AC.

I was wondering if all I need to is rectify the output from pin 20 to DC and have that trigger a relay that lets current flow into the high voltage switch inputs in the Shelly 1 Mini G3 (disconnecting the switch input from the relay so it’s independent) then you can read the status of the gate.

Essentially we need a way to have relay where the trigger circuit is can be AC - I guess that doesn’t exist for the obvious reason that it would just vibrate at high speed.

This company looks like they sell something that rectifies the input and can then give another output

https://www.jwsltd.co.uk/handy-relay-for-doors-731-p.html

1 Like